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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am a new member but i have been lurking on this board for years but now i finally have a project. It is a 62 Scout that already had a sbc 350, with a sm420, & dana 18. It has a 4" body lift so the motor will clear. I was told that it sat for about 3 years. I bought it in February and since then i have been hard at work. Here are some pictures from when i bought it.


http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t51/drummondj
[IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t51/drummondj/Scout/P1070720.jpg
/4X4/P1070703.jpg[/IMG]

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Since I got it home i have spent a lot of time under the hood getting the motor running better, changing all fluids, going through the brakes, upgraded to stainless brake lines, extended shock towers, custom radiator support, electric fans. Took it camping in July, here are a few pictures.




And here it is now how it sits. I installed a set of 33" BFG Mud Terrains, a set of flowmasters, and painted it olive drab. I am currently gathering parts for power steering.




 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The person who did the body lift used solid aluminum blocks that are not pictured. What you see in the picture is support for the inner fender. It will be replaced.
 

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What the hell is with that body lift?
otherwise....
Welcome to the addiction of scouts...
Now just remember that "Search" is your best friend.
Whats next after the power steering?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Whats next after the power steering?
After power steering I will be swapping in a front 44 with reverse shackles, and chevy 52" springs.
Carry on then. So far, so good, but...ummm..might want to get better at your welding skillz :D
I had a friend do the welding for me. They might not be pretty but they are strong. A lot of the problem with welding is that my house has old wiring and the breaker keeps popping making it a pain!
 

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Nice starting point. Are you planning on running the 52" springs up front? I'm running chevy 47" up front and 52"s out back. I'd watch the 52"s up front, you will be running into obstackles before the tire can climb them. Even on 38's I still have my spring hitting before the tire can climb. The 350 will fit without the body lift, you might have to notch out the drivers fire wall a little bit though. Nice start though.
 

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Nice starting point. Are you planning on running the 52" springs up front? I'm running chevy 47" up front and 52"s out back. I'd watch the 52"s up front, you will be running into obstackles before the tire can climb them. Even on 38's I still have my spring hitting before the tire can climb. The 350 will fit without the body lift, you might have to notch out the drivers fire wall a little bit though. Nice start though.
Even with factory manifolds I had to notch a bit for clearance. You don't need much.

Look in the FAQ, there are a number of 80/800 builds.
 

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Are you using a dryer plug? You should run a dedicated plug rated for your welder not a dryer. Are you going to keep the stock column? If not.. dibs :p

I'll have to swing by sometime and check it out, your practically walking distance..

Feel free to check mine out for ideas on the steering etc.. I have no body lift and fit my V8 just fine, some cutting involved though.

Creative thread title :p
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice starting point. Are you planning on running the 52" springs up front? I'm running chevy 47" up front and 52"s out back. I'd watch the 52"s up front, you will be running into obstackles before the tire can climb them. Even on 38's I still have my spring hitting before the tire can climb. The 350 will fit without the body lift, you might have to notch out the drivers fire wall a little bit though. Nice start though.
That is good to know. I probably will run the 52's out back and just get a set of 47's for the front, thanks for the advice.
Are you using a dryer plug? You should run a dedicated plug rated for your welder not a dryer. Are you going to keep the stock column? If not.. dibs :p

I'll have to swing by sometime and check it out, your practically walking distance..

Feel free to check mine out for ideas on the steering etc.. I have no body lift and fit my V8 just fine, some cutting involved though.

Creative thread title :p
No, it was a 110v welder, and its not mine. Part of the problem. Are you referring to the stock steering column? If so then no, i am installing a tilt wheel from a chevy van that does not have the ignition on the column. Stop by anytime Brandon, i am working on it this weekend.

Regarding the body lift, look i know it looks horrible and it makes the center of gravity worse, thats how it was when i bought it. It will have to stay for a while because i dont have a welder to do all the firewall notching, and i plan on taking the body off the frame in the future anyway, and i can fix it then. I will also have to make new motor and tranny mounts, and lower them down some, they sit too high.

Thanks for all the comments!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is a pic of the condition of my front 44. When i bought the scout it came with the front 44 and a shortened 60 for the rear.

I dont know why anyone would paint them white. :shaking:
 

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Looks like a good start (minus the body lift)

A suggestion for your powersteering upgrade is to use a 88-98 Chevy IFS steering box with drop pitman arm for a late '70's Jeep Wagoneer ($60 from Summit) find some flattop knuckles if you don't already have some ($40-60to get it milled and drilled for highsteer). I used a steering column from an '87 Chevy truck, the splines matched the steering box, but I swapped in a u-joint from Speedway motors for better strength and to clear the radiator. The GM powersteering pump will bolt up to your SBC, (get the ones with O-ring hoses to match the box).

I used 52" Chevy springs up front with a shackle reversal, but I stretched the front frame a few inches. You should have plenty of room in there for a SBC :evil:



P6270036.JPG

P5270026.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Looks like a good start (minus the body lift)

A suggestion for your powersteering upgrade is to use a 88-98 Chevy IFS steering box with drop pitman arm for a late '70's Jeep Wagoneer ($60 from Summit) find some flattop knuckles if you don't already have some ($40-60to get it milled and drilled for highsteer). I used a steering column from an '87 Chevy truck, the splines matched the steering box, but I swapped in a u-joint from Speedway motors for better strength and to clear the radiator. The GM powersteering pump will bolt up to your SBC, (get the ones with O-ring hoses to match the box).

I used 52" Chevy springs up front with a shackle reversal, but I stretched the front frame a few inches. You should have plenty of room in there for a SBC :evil:



View attachment 474705

View attachment 474711
Thanks for the suggestions. We are on the same page with the power steering. This is what i have so far; Saginaw pump from a 92 camaro, power steering pump from a chevy van, steering column from a chevy van, and i ordered 2 u joints from speedway the other day (waiting for them in the mail). I was not sure what pitman arm to use. I have read that the grand cherokees had a 4" drop pitman from factory and used saginaw box. Is it a 3" drop pitman from the wagoneer?

I would like to have high steer, but i want to do it when i put the 44 in front. I was told if i bought a high steer kit for the factory front axle, i might have to buy another for the 44 because they might not be the same length. I dont have a lot of money and i dont like to buy parts twice.When i do a ji-steer, this is what I was thinking about buying.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-78quot-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1337.html
The current setup (the way i bought it) has a y link that has a lot of slop in it. I was thinking about beefing up he y link and running it (temporarily so it can be moved around) until i swap the front axle.
 

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Hang there with the rig and try not to get too discouraged. :) In the long run, it will be worth it. (I think) :D
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. We are on the same page with the power steering. This is what i have so far; Saginaw pump from a 92 camaro, power steering pump from a chevy van, steering column from a chevy van, and i ordered 2 u joints from speedway the other day (waiting for them in the mail). I was not sure what pitman arm to use. I have read that the grand cherokees had a 4" drop pitman from factory and used saginaw box. Is it a 3" drop pitman from the wagoneer?

I would like to have high steer, but i want to do it when i put the 44 in front. I was told if i bought a high steer kit for the factory front axle, i might have to buy another for the 44 because they might not be the same length. I dont have a lot of money and i dont like to buy parts twice.When i do a ji-steer, this is what I was thinking about buying.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-78quot-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1337.html
The current setup (the way i bought it) has a y link that has a lot of slop in it. I was thinking about beefing up he y link and running it (temporarily so it can be moved around) until i swap the front axle.
Sounds like you got a pretty good handle on it.

The Wagoneer dropped pitman arm was for a 4-6" lift, the actual drop on ther arm itself was only a few inches, but it worked well to clear the front crossmember (which I later cut out to fit the PSD).

I got almost all my highsteer stuff from Ballistic Fab, Arms, DOM, threaded inserts, but I used TREs.

If you need to get your knuckles milled/drilled/tapped, I used John Nutter Ent.

http://www.jnutter.com/ $50 ea includes return shipping.

There's a few others that offer it as well partsmike is another.
 
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