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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I've had a few PM's about starting a build thread so hey why not? It's only Pirate :flipoff2:

Most probably know my truck as the overgrown trail plugger but in case you don't, heres a pic:



And also as some of you know I've been collecting MB U419 axles. I started with a pair for my truck then just kept going... Ended up with a total of 17 fronts and 2 rears and sold all but 1 rear and 3 fronts. One of the fronts will be spare parts and the rear will be spare portal parts and the other two fronts are going in the truck.

Just some info on the 419's. They look like the 406/416's that we have seen on here from a distance. But they use U1300L style portal boxes and axle shafts but use the older 406/416 housings. They use a different upper gear and bearing and stub assembly than the earlier 406/416 stuff as well. So they are not quite U1300 bling but they are just as strong axle wise, the housing may only be rated at 4 something tons intead of 6 or something but hey whatever, who's counting. These use yoke style axles instead of the trunion style of the 406/416. I like 'em. They come from SEE tractors that the military uses.

So anyway, I was waiting on a time to swap them into my truck but never really had a chance and the 60/14 were working ok at the moment. Well then I had to try and keep up with JR at the hammers through the whoopdy doo's and ended up like this:



If anyone asks it's because of the extra weight of Beat95YJ in the passenger seat. But in realty one of the 9/16" bolts in a JJ broke and caused another JJ to break in half and rotate the axle up taking out both front coilovers and driveshaft.

So, guess thats my reason to swap axles eh? Anyway, I have an event on July 20th and a real important one Aug. 23rd. So thats my deadline.

Still with me? Ok, here we go with the build. As with all mog axles you need pinion conversions to run them with regular driveshafts. These cost quite a bit of money but being the crafty guy I am I turned on DIY Network and DVR'd the pinion conversion shows and got started.

Took the end 3.5" of the stock mog driveshaft and lopped it off. Turned it down to 2.375" OD and put a groove in it for welding purposes. Also took a piece of 4.75" round bar and machined it into a companion flange for a flange yoke.



They plop together with a .002" interference fit and then get welded. Pollished surface finish on the splined section since this is where the pinion seals will ride.



Next I took the torque tubes from the mog and cut off the last 9". This holds the existing pinion seal and outer pinion bearing race. So this has to be reused. I then turned a bore into the end of it for a .007" interference fit pinion seal. Actually, two pinion seals, I hate pinion leaks, or any leaks, and wanted dual seals and yes I copied the dual seal idea from the Sammi build in the mog section. So that will be 3 total pinion seals on each axle. The seals are from a 1946 Ford 2.5 ton truck. I spent 3 hours going through catalogs until I found them, perfect dimensions in everyway and rated at 3500 fpm so there good to go! Cost $36 a piece though...



Mog pinions, one on the left has some issues, it was left in the rain by the US Govt. Everything is good except the outer bearing, it's just a spare anyway. You can see the start of my pinion conversion on the right:



Driveshaft mocked in there to check it out:



Splined section welded to the flange:



And then bolted with 6 1/2" bolts:



I am using the stock mog driveshaft bits due to their shear size and fully captured u-joint caps, I dig'em.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next was 8 lug conversions... Basically my plan was/is to make an adapter plate out of steel that will attach to the stock mog 6 lug hub and convert it to 8 lug. It will weld on then the studs will press through both pieces to help hold it all together, it's also all hub centric so it should never be a problem.

Here are the rotors, late model Chevy 2500HD rear rotors:



Here is the start of one of the steel adapters, they are widdled from 1" plate. The pockets are where the stud heads will recess. I broke my 3/4" endmill so I only got one done, replacements will be here Thursday.



I will be using stock H1 8 bolt rims on these to keep the track width the same as the 60 I had with my re-centered H1's before.

Next step was replacing one of the axle shafts. A u-joint broke and took out the ears on the stub shaft. I could just replace the stub shaft but that requires work. I just replaced the entire portal with another with the shafts all attached:







The black box is the new one.

Just a note on steering. I am using the same parts that X-Rated used on his U1300's. He was kind enough to offer his steering arms for sale on here and I snatched up two sets for my front/queer steer. Should work very nicely. Will be using the same 2.5"x10" double ended ram that I currently have.

Well time to make some real progress. I plasma'd all the brackets off the front axle and flap disc'd it smooth:



Then I pulled my heavily used and abused 79 Ford 60:



The old girl has been through hell under that truck and I commend her for her service. Just gotta figure out what to do with her.

Shot of the broken JJ from the axle flipping adventure:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Look Ma, no axe hole:



U419 in place:





Got oil pan clearance? Cause I don't:



I have to chop and channel the oil pan to clear the pinion and move the pickup to the pass. side about 1.5". Not to bad, I have a spare engine and pan to do the work on out of the truck then just have to swap the pans. I will go dry sump soon as these next trips are over and I have some money again.

Picking up steel this week after work and should get the front linked up by Sunday including the new coilovers thrown in. I could have rebuilt the old 2.5x18 sways but the new ones are nickel coated and look all shiny and stuff so I bought them, thanks again Purple Performing Poly Performance.

See you Saturday night :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
96 K3500 Crewcab Long Bed
Stock Vortec 7.4 454
Stock 4l80e
Stock BW4401 t-case

Wheelbase was shortened from 168 to 152 lol.

Has 47" LTB's on recentered H1's.

Thats about it... I have a homebuilt BW4401/Ford 205 doubler in the garage just haven't had a chance to install yet...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well as I said in the other thread, I'm waiting on my new shop... I don't really like the idea of building a buggy from scratch on a 50 year old out of level driveway :flipoff2:

Won't be "moved in" to the new shop for at least 6 months so... This will keep me busy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have all 1-1/4 Heims with misalignment spacers that drop them down to 3/4" bolts. Should hold up well :D My truck is all JJ's except the axle end of the rear which are 1-1/4 heims and they are the only good joints left on the truck and also the oldest.
 

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just fuckn' sweet man. i hope to wheel with you one day or once your shop is done, maybe have you build me some 4 links. lol. Mogs are my dream set up. can't wait to see the progress continue.
 

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Going to be done before blazerfest buddy :D
Right. Thats like 2 weeks dude. I'll believe it when I see it. :flipoff2:


BTW make sure you FULLY weld everything this time and latch your hood down. :flipoff2:
 

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:smokin:

I always liked your "truck". Nice tech with the DIY pinion conversion, too.
 

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Badass build man. What shafts/ujoints did you run in that 60? I'm amazed it's held up with 47s + the weight of your rig.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Badass build man. What shafts/ujoints did you run in that 60? I'm amazed it's held up with 47s + the weight of your rig.
Alot lol.

Broke a ton of stock 35 spline stuff. Went to Yukon and oval'd out the ears on a few sets so I have a set of Superior's in there with CTM's now. Have a spare set of yukon's with ctm's as well but haven't hurt the Superiors yet... I was goign to go to CTM shafts but instead got the mogs.
 
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