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great tech, lookin forward to watchin this one...:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Right. Thats like 2 weeks dude. I'll believe it when I see it. :flipoff2:


BTW make sure you FULLY weld everything this time and latch your hood down. :flipoff2:
You shall see young one, I'll show up and only break one or two things I swear.
 

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How wide are the 419's
they look the same as dads u900's

he offset the motor to the right to make drive shaft room

Can you get the 16.5's over the the portal box ?
 

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How much does a front 419 typically cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Stock they are like 75" or so WMS... Thats why I'm going with the stock h1's with 7.25 backspacing... Yes the 16.5's fit over the box.

I typically sell them for $1500 for the good condition ones.
 

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You shall see young one, I'll show up and only break one or two things I swear.
Sounds like you just committed yourself to being at BF. Im not digging holes with you at pismo next year if you dont show to BF with your rig. :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Todays progress. Spent 1/2 the day getting my old 4 link crossmembers out. I definately did not plan on them coming out when I installed them lol. They were bolted and welded in and took 4 hours to remove both of them... Mainly due to the tight spaces but anyway, an empty frame rail!



New 1/4" steel plates welded to the frame to plug up all the holes and give me a clean slate to work on, not to mention the added strength...



Welds...



Sorry, no tig, my machine blows the main breaker to my house... Another reason I can't wait to move into my new shop with it's 400a service.

Lower links axle end. Upper link mounts aren't fabbed yet though:





New crossmembers and link mounts, of course they still need to be gusseted and finish welded:



Tomorrow the truck should be sitting on the front axle with brakes and driveshaft being the only thing left... Then doing the rear next weekend!
 

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Awsome truck, axles, design, execution, and overall build. I am looking foward to the new buggy.
I thought you tried a set of Bobby's CVs as well?...
Alot lol.
Broke a ton of stock 35 spline stuff. Went to Yukon and oval'd out the ears on a few sets so I have a set of Superior's in there with CTM's now. Have a spare set of yukon's with ctm's as well but haven't hurt the Superiors yet... I was goign to go to CTM shafts but instead got the mogs.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Awsome truck, axles, design, execution, and overall build. I am looking foward to the new buggy.
I thought you tried a set of Bobby's CVs as well?...
Thats a negative, I planned on it but couldn't wait the 2+ months for them at the time. I found a set of "used" superiors on here and bought them instead. They were bought for a 78 ford 60 but never installed so I got them for 1/2 price and used them :D
 

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Mmmm... beefy!
Digin it, Jason!

IMO, dry sumpin' is not worth it.
1. The car still will not get oil pressure if it's on it's side or lid, dry sumps don't help.
2. It's expensive and can be troublesome. (all the extra lines and parts...what if a stick or something gets caught in the belt?)
3. You don't need the extra clearence under the engine 'cause it's going to be 5 feet off the ground :D

Just buy or build a deep pan. :smokin:

But then again, I wouldn't mind wheeling with somebody that has a dry sump motor. :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well the only reason I wanted the dry sump was the clearance for the pinion lol. The pinion, at ride height, is 1" below the oil pan sump :eek:

I'm going to knock off the side of the pan next to the pickup to clear but if I had a pan that was only as deep as the crank then I'd be set... I think I'll be happy with the modded oil pan. I do however have nightmares about what I am going to find in the bottom of my pan... Too many late nights on my side with no oil pressure :laughing:
 

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This is most exciting rebuild thread I've read in a while!
I'm pumped Jason. What's up with the Big Dawgs?
You've got me thinking about BlazerBash Hollister right?
 
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