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Discussion Starter #1
I know this isn't real hardcore, but I'm certain I won't get the answers I need from the other section. I figured since it was Tuesday I could get away with it.

I have a CJ with SOA on Alcan springs (nearly flat so no lift) and a 1" BL running 37s. The PO had 40s, but it made all the stuff I really enjoy running almost too easy so I went to 37s. Plus the lighter tires help with drivetrain longevity.

I've been considering 3 different options for lowering it.

1 - Frenching the spring mounts (maybe 1.5-2") and removing the 1" BL (it's only there to clear the twin stick) for maybe 2.5-3" of improvement.

2 - Converting to SUA with maybe 1.5" springs or re-arching the Alcans a bit. Of course, it's not that easy because of the hi-steer, Redneck Ram, new driveshafts, and the fact that the front axle is designed to be SOA with the perch cast into the pumpkin. In addition to the fact that I'd have to do something for more clearance like what Jp is doing on the no-lift YJ project, which will add time and money.

3 - Linking it. This is my least favored option because of the time and expense required. I have a 15 month old and the wife is pregnant, so spare time and money is becoming a valuable commodity right now. Plus, I have ZERO experience with this so it would take months if not years to complete correctly.

So my question is:

How tall is your rig? I'm at 81.5" to the top of the cage right now with cold, bias IROKs. I feel like it's too tall and top heavy, plus I'm not the tallest guy (5'-10") and my old rig was SUA on 35s so maybe it's just a matter of perception.

FWIW I can and will do all the work myself so I'm not a complete tard. I just can't decide if all the effort is worth it or if I just need to buck up and deal with it.
 

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last time i measured i was at 75 inches i think. But see the problem is i run about 4 psi. So if i ever air up to 15 or so then it could change the height drastically. There are some really good build threads that have heights but i dont have links to any. It all depends how wide you are. If your running full widths like i am i can afford to be a little taller. I say because you dont need it take out the body lift, see if this makes your tranny temp go up at all. If your still not satisfied you might try a shorter shackle, both of these combined could give you like 2-3 less height. Bringing you down to 78.5'' which is not all that bad. Btw if this is considered a tuesday question im screwed. Its a good question its just that has been asked before, i know ive asked it awhile back.

your options 2 and 3 seem unpractical. Linking like you said would take alot of time. And going to sua would kill your ground clearance andlike you said your steering is already set up. How wide are you?
 

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about 72 top of roll bar. running spring over on 36's
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I figured I'd get a lot of "you're a pussy, just link it and shut up" responses. I couldn't come up with the proper search terms that didn't give 1 billion inapplicable results, but figured it had been covered at some point.

I definitely thing the BL should go, but just haven't done it yet because I'd like to do it all at once. The shackles aren't very long to begin with, so I don't think I want to bother with them.

I'm full width, running H2s which brings it in a bit. It's probably not that bad, just much different than my old YJ. Tires are 37" IROKs at about 20psi on the road, although the height measurement was on cold tires that had been sitting over a week and pretty well flat spotted.

My trans crossmember is 18" off the ground now, with it hanging about 6-1/4" below the frame rails. When I was on 40s it was OK and is tolerable now, but would be much better to tuck it up. I'm running an NV4500 and D300, so temps aren't too much of a concern, but they both hang way down compared to other combos. I have a TON of space between the tub and tranny, so I could easily raise the whole thing up 5" with a little tunnel clearancing. All of this is to say that aside from the steering components going the lost clearance from SOA can be offset nearly 1-1 if not better. I could clock the 300, but the 4500 would still hang as far down so I don't know if it's worth it. Of course, raising all of that weight will be counter-productive to the other work to lower the COG.

This is the bad thing about buying someone elses stuff. I bought it because the general componentry was exactly what I wanted and the price was right, however in hindsight I think it would have been easier to have just built the YJ to my specs. Right now everytime I decide I want to change something, some other downstream issue pops up and makes me reconsider.
 

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I have 1 inch of up travel... Not a rig you want to rail on in the whoops... But it works awesome just about anywhere else that I have wheeled. I have no interest in a tall heep.
 

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76" top of cage at B pillar. 36sxs with approx. 25psi. SOA front with frenched hangers and linked cos in the rear. I have about 5-6" uptravel at either end. Here are some pics of the front... it's easy to do and got me about 2.5" lower in the front. Would have been a little lower, but I beafed up the spring packs at the same time. Hope that helps.

 

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I have a shackle reversal in the front so i frenched them in to the frame like i saw in a Shaffers build. My front sits about like Cave's does in his pic with the springs nice and level. The rear pretty much looks just like Cave's front with the rear hanger bolt going in to the middle of the frame. I also mixed in some yj leaves in to my waggy springs to lower it another inch or so.

Not as pretty as Shaffers but it lowered the heep 4"
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
lojones, that's perfect. I had forgotten all about that build despite having saved it to my favorites because of the shackle reversal setup. I'm running a SRS so it's exactly what I need to do.

Thanks for all the replies. This helped me make the decision to french the springs and stay SOA. The only think I wonder about is how much clearance I need between the tie rod / drag link and the frame rail. There already isn't much there so it may take some reworking still.

I'll take some pics tonight to gather opinions.
 

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The only think I wonder about is how much clearance I need between the tie rod / drag link and the frame rail. There already isn't much there so it may take some reworking still.

I'll take some pics tonight to gather opinions.


not a good pic, but i am running 1.5" RE sprung over with no BL, and i have about 9"+/- between the frame and spring which does allow the DL to hit the frame a little when compressed, but a bump stop solves that issue. i welded the rear hanger close to the frame to make the spring veryt tight to the frame, and then welded the front hanger out in front of the bumper. my jeep sits about 79" overall with 39.5" tsl's and i could really clear 42's.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
That is a good lookin YJ you got there!

I have 5" of clearance for the tie-rod and 5-1/4" for the drag link. Plus my bump stop is set at 3.5" uptravel. It looks like I'm good on clearance. My memory at work must have been foggy because I thought it was much closer.






Disregard the rust. I haven't gotten around to cleaning the winter salt damage off and painting things up.

I guess if things got too tight I could ream the hi-steer arms and come from underneath?
 

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For the rear, spring under may be a good option - if done correctly it should eliminate the need for an antiwrap bar, and keep things nice and simple. The front of course will be more complex - I'd look at frenching the spring mounts.

I'd spend time looking at tucking the tranny/xfercase up too.


:mr-t:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For the rear, spring under may be a good option - if done correctly it should eliminate the need for an antiwrap bar, and keep things nice and simple. The front of course will be more complex - I'd look at frenching the spring mounts.

I'd spend time looking at tucking the tranny/xfercase up too.


:mr-t:
You know, I hadn't really thought of mixing it up like that. That's a great idea.
 
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