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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK I bought it about 2 months ago,2004 Xterra with 72,000mi on it.
Never been in the dirt.





Deleted resonators. Removed step bars,mud flaps and rear sway bar. Did a 2" body lift.








Cranked torsion bars to almost level it out. Threw some cheap M/T's on it.




And started playing in dirt.








Clay county 4x4's night ride is on the 16th at Hardrock and since I've only got the headlights I decided to make a sacrificial light bar,will bolt on bumper where plate mount used to be.





Will be an ongoing project. Next up,skid plates and sliders.
 

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Looks good man! When do we start cutting that front end off? lol Thanks for the heads up on the cc4x4 night ride. I have that weekend off. You might see me there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Played at Hardrock in Ocala this weekend.






Played hard.
Only damage,bent tie rod.




Just good fun.
 

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Idler arms, alternators,locking hubs, and tie rod assemblies are the most prone to breakage. I kinda miss wheelin my X when it was mostly stock. I had a lot of fun but got tired of changing the same old shit after every trip.
 

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I think I still have a couple spares laying around, for cost of shipping I will send them to you. If you want them PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well screw it if I do I'll fab up my own.
I'm a machinist/mechanic and if I bend these I'll over engineer the shit outta it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Lol, what I was trying to get across is that one thing leads to another. What starts as a steering fix ends up full on swapping.

:D
Your an evil,evil man....lol
SAS is what I really want but not gonna happen for a year or more.

So I'll do what I can with what I got.
Bit the bullet and bought a Lokka locker for the front,probably find more weaknesses with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well,going in in the morning.
Instagators probably right,bet I can bend these too.
Guess I'll find out Thanksgiving Saturday,heading back to Hardrock,


 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Those are awesome, made in china greasables, Now I like that! Beef up the steel and break the small ass ball studs.... Better to bend than break! How do those internet web office guys get you guy's get you to buy this shit anyway ? Really if you want to better the steer kit, just get a stock 99 2wd kit from the junk yard...it will increase the tie rod travel and reduce the bump + help the idler arm issue..... so use the 2wd pitman, 2wd idler, 2wd bar, 2wd inners, 4wd outers, 2wd sleeves, 4x4 sleeves, and over Dom tube same strength, more travel, better steer for a stock or lifted Ifs..The biggest problem is the steep upper angle on small balls because of a short stroke...decrease the anlge with a longer stroke= Longer tie rods closer to the center, not at the pitman and idler arm the dumbest ass steering in the world is the 4x4 Nissan WTF, IT HAS TO BE CHANGED, and camini half assed it too..I mean hear is a guy with probably a full fucking machine shop with the capability, but for some odd reason still mounts the rods at the pitman & idler arm same quick upper stroke HD doesn't mean shit if you don't increase the GEO... Sorry, but on the 4x4 I think you use the stock idler / pitman and flip the 2wd bar a top to clear th 4x4 shit below.....Oh and I still want to race a calimini kit 33s for 33s in my 2wd Hardbody on the river trails just for fun to see what happens when U lose 4wd ! IT will fulfill a small theory I have !..........But seriously, that truck is to big /heavy for the stock Ifs to rock crawl in the first place, so chop the bus off and start with that, low pro is better, U can see how the damn thing leans in the photo un lifted.... Okidoke kids were gonna flip now!
Wow,your now my hero. Thanks for all the great advice.
Not everyone is out to build a rock crawling buggy but if I decide to I'll keep everything you blathered in mind.

(and their made in Turkey greasables)
 

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Wow,your now my hero. Thanks for all the great advice.
Not everyone is out to build a rock crawling buggy but if I decide to I'll keep everything you blathered in mind.

(and their made in Turkey greasables)
Didn't really mean anything by it, just being funny but trust me, I would send those rods back to the city of gobble gobble ! .. get ur money and get some Japan made Nissans, U don't want rod ends failing after a home trip from off roading.......Exterra's are pretty heavy and will add even more stress to lesser components.... I did some pretty extensive IFS Nissan designing, and nothing is equivalent to the Nissan joints except for uniballs... although some joints are better in different trucks....It pisses me off that all these so called problem solver trw / moog, or WTF ever reboxers sell junk ass parts made of Chinese pot metal, & machined to shity ass tolerances of about +-.020 .....They wipe the grease right out of the damn part.....A whole damn tube of grease and the ball studs are dry as a bone @ first cycle.... Screw these Chinese machine shops & the wall mart"s that got em hear can fuck off as well ! .....What we trailbillys really all want n need is increased diameter / high angle studs with double / triple pull out strength with grease tracks chromo or stainless steel .... WE should Kick AUTOZONE'S CEO out on his ass, Take over shop & hire all trailbillys to make WTF we really need for Yota, Nissan, Jeep, & ALL TRAILBILLY TYPE TRAIL RIGS ! ...who's withmeonthisshit! JUST A IDEA! That truck is prob best almost how it is with some 33s or 34.5 1150 wides and chopped sway bars... IF looking to go solid axle or what ever get a good ole beat up pickup to build, it's much easier than screwing with a suv although Exterra's do have some good shit on them to build with...... I use to work at a VW sand rail shop a long time ago. Its too tuff keeping a truck body and the bigger the worst, while Vw eng & drive trains break it's still the right idea if it had a Yota or Nissan Train.... If it wasn't cold icy ass ohio I would totally sand rail my Nissan
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bought a Lokka locker. Came in today.








Only took 5 days from order to my front door........from Australia.
 
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