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On the upol did a ton of over spray get on the driveway? also if you start can you stop and finish another day or is the gun like a 1 time use thing? So should you have everything ready to spray when you start. Looks sweet
You can clean the gun, and the kit comes with 4 quart containers the black stuff and a 1qt container of the part b mix. You pour the part b mix into the qt of black stuff to the fill line shake and then spray. Once you mix a qt it has to be sprayed before it hardens.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
On the upol did a ton of over spray get on the driveway? also if you start can you stop and finish another day or is the gun like a 1 time use thing? So should you have everything ready to spray when you start. Looks sweet
No not much at all got on the driveway. I just thru down a moving blanket. Not much ended up on the blanket tho. It stays pretty where you want it.

As far as the clean up and reuse: THe reducer/ hardener had a bit more than was required to fill the 4 bottles up. Which worked out great because when I finished the 4 bottles. I split the left over into 5 equal parts. Pouring 4 of the 5/5ths into the empty raptor bottles and shaking well. I then hit up all the spots that were hidden around a corners that I originally missed. Finally the last 1/5 th I used for clean up. Took the gun apart and cleaned it with q tips and paper towels. THe gun I can defiantly use again when I do the inside.

As far as touch ups or spraying and not finishing to come back later. The directions say no problem just wipe with a good wax/grease remover and ready to spray again. Pretty cool stuff.

Looks great! The upol raptor is great stuff. If you need to touch anything up later, I used a spray can of rustoleum satin black and it blended in very well.
Thanks for the suggestion. I has some flat black and used it to touch up a few places. But the satin black would have probably been the best choice. After seeing you used it with much success I knew this is what I was gonna try too. :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #103
I need some help and or some advice. After spraying the U-pol I started on removing the 5th leaf in my front leaf springs. If you remember these springs are Rubicon Express reverse eye YJ SOA 1.5" lift springs. My hope was by removing the 5th leaf the suspension would drop down a inch or two??? WEll that wasn't the case. The front bumper dropped 3/8th" :eek: So my question is.
1. Do I remove the 4th leaf and see if it drops at least 1"??? Or is the suspension going to be too soft?? ONly 3 leafs :confused:
2. Do I get stock YJ springs and lose the 1.5" lift from the RE springs?? which would get me very close to my 2" drop! In doing this I lose the reverse eye springs and possibly some compression articulation???

Here is what 8yrs of wheeling did to the bolt thru the spring pack. I ended up going to ACE and getting a 5/16th grade 8 bolt and grinding the hex off the head to get a round head on it.



THe 5th springs in the pack. THe ones removed


In progress




So then I cracked a beer and made a plate out of 16 ga sheet metal to keep my new clutch clean.

 

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Thanks for the info on the upol. I have 2 kits here ready to go on but decided to add a tailgate and thinking about redoing the rear fender wells so just waiting for a day off now.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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I am having the same issues with the bds +2 yj springs. the front is a little too high with the small and 4th leaf out and the rear is too high with only 2 leafs left on the pack!
Pulling leafs just seems like a poor fix. JC whitney has a 20% off code plus free shipping right now and I ordered the 5 leaf pack of crowne stock 5 leaf for the front and the 4 leaf for the back.(yj has four leaf front , 5 leaf back- stock) for just over $300 at my door. I hope to see how it works this weekend.
Can I plan on 1/2-3/4" drop from break in on new springs?
 

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I am having the same issues with the bds +2 yj springs. the front is a little too high with the small and 4th leaf out and the rear is too high with only 2 leafs left on the pack!
Pulling leafs just seems like a poor fix. JC whitney has a 20% off code plus free shipping right now and I ordered the 5 leaf pack of crowne stock 5 leaf for the front and the 4 leaf for the back.(yj has four leaf front , 5 leaf back- stock) for just over $300 at my door. I hope to see how it works this weekend.
Can I plan on 1/2-3/4" drop from break in on new springs?
As my bds yj 2" springs break in they are getting softer and flatter. I can tell a huge difference in driving on the curves. Just in the short wheelling I did last week the front and rear bumper dropped a 1/4", but my rig is heavier than yours. Old school to get a softer lower ride was to grind the top of the leaf spring ends thinner. I would not do to much until your rig is fully weighted and the springs are broke in. 2" on sua is not that much. My bds springs are the 4 leaf pack.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Good info there guys! Well I'm felling like up need to buy new yj springs and be done with it! I'll look into jc Whitney! Thanks for the heads up on the 20% off
 

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Discussion Starter #108
I really need some 3/16th " steel bent in the radius of our rear corners of the tub? Anyone have a way or some around I can buy?
 

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clamps, torch and hammer and if you can bolt onto the body as you go all the better…that's how I did it, but I wish the leg I had wrapping around was longer, because I couldn't get it to flush out with the other piece. So if it was longer I could've cut it to fit flush….of course I was only bending about 4-5" wide piece of 3/16"….

page 3 post #52 of my build….

good luck--
 

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Discussion Starter #110
clamps, torch and hammer and if you can bolt onto the body as you go all the better…that's how I did it, but I wish the leg I had wrapping around was longer, because I couldn't get it to flush out with the other piece. So if it was longer I could've cut it to fit flush….of course I was only bending about 4-5" wide piece of 3/16"….

page 3 post #52 of my build….

good luck--
Thanks for the info Chris! My piece will probably be about 8-10" if I remember correctly? I have a feeling it might be a challenge to make the ending side line up well enough like you say!
 

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Discussion Starter #111
What is the radius of the rear corners? 5"??
 

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I did a 3" radius on some parts I made....



That seemed to be the radius the best I could measure for the INSIDE of the factory sheetmetal surface. The factory sheet metal is about .060 thick ( probably 16 gauge ). That would make the radius you need for corners 3.060 or so.

I think if you used a 3" radius die the corners would probably come out close enough with material springback.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Thanks so much for the help guys. I finally found a place after
Much searching to bend a 3" radius out of 3/16th. A 2'x2' - 3/16th sheet bent in a 3" radius. Is gonna cost $200 for 2 of them. Ouchhhhhh. Well I want the comp cut gone so that's what it's gonna cost!
 

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Thanks so much for the help guys. I finally found a place after
Much searching to bend a 3" radius out of 3/16th. A 2'x2' - 3/16th sheet bent in a 3" radius. Is gonna cost $200 for 2 of them. Ouchhhhhh. Well I want the comp cut gone so that's what it's gonna cost!
I think you should only need about 18" of material height right? No sense in buying and bending material you don't need.

I think 3/16" is overkill, but that is probably just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
I think you should only need about 18" of material height right? No sense in buying and bending material you don't need.

I think 3/16" is overkill, but that is probably just me.
Yes your right Mieser. 18" tall is all I need. I just drew a quick sketch of what I'm faxing tomorrow to a local steel supplier who is going to bend the piece. I can understand how 3/16th may be a bit over kil. That is what I have on there now. So I'm not going to change it! It will take a rock beating and hopefully I'll just need some touch up paint and I won't be doing much body work in the future! :) thanks for the radius picture. Made it crystal clear for me!

 

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Discussion Starter #117
So I got a bit more done. Not much in the way of pictures tho. I did get my crank sensor piece made. It took no joke 6mo to have this made. Not that it is difficult to do. I would assume not. but we all know what assuming does. The problem is its 1/4" to large. The tabs sticking up hit my water pump. So I either notch the shit out of the bottom bolt and part of the pump housing or I take it back. Going to drop it off tomorrow and hopefully get it back in a reasonable time frame?? This piece has 3 tabs at 120 deg apart. The computer for the TBI unit needs 3 signals 120 degs apart. This piece makes the odd fire engine produce an even fire signal. Picked up by a crank trigger sensor I will mount.







Primed the rear section


Mounted my fuel cell for the last time.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
So I picked up the rear corners I had bent in the 3" radius! Pretty damn close to
Perfect! Better tan I could have done with a torch no doubt! My question is. How have you guys been marking where you cut the wheel wells out for the tire to go on full compression? I saw "Fab Tech" in his build he cut out cardboard and attached it to the axle and used it as a stencil! Seems like a good idea. Just wanted to know what others have done.
 

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I had a hard time trying to cut mine to look right, but I had to work around a preexisting cut and shortening from a cj7. I just made a cardboard pattern, traced and cut it. I would like to re do a better job later or maybe add some tube fender flares.
 

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I've cut mine twice and they still rub. You have to have full articulation, not just compression :homer: Maybe the 3rd time I'll get it right.
 
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