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Discussion Starter #1
I have had this Jeep for many years and I felt it was time to upgrade the suspension. I was tired of axle hop and hanging on leaf spring hangers and shackles. The tubework was kinda hack and the cage desperately needed reinforcement for safety reasons. I also really wanted to clean up the wiring and any questionable fab work that has been done over the years.

I have now been working on this project for several months and have roughly another month to get this thing finished before a big get-together trail ride at Harlan.

The specs when I started:

1993 YJ body and frame
1995 TBI 350
1995 GM NV4500
Dana 300 w/ 32 spline rear output, twinsticks
Front Dana 60 w/ 35 spline Spicer in/out ARB 5.13s
14b semifloat rear ARB 5.13s
RE 1.5" SOA front
RE 3.5" XJ SUA rear
M8000 winch
36" SX's
103" wheelbase, 24" to the bottom of the frame



Parts to add:

Cromo rearsteer 60 w/ ARB
full hydro
4-link f&r
12" WE airshocks front
16" FOX airshocks rear
Box4Rocks 231 doubler
lots o' 1.75" DOM tubing


On to the build...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Then hacked off the rear of the fame and placed the 4-link and new rear axle. I narrowed the hood and windshield ~10" to match the body tub and the grille was narrowed 8" to retain 4 grille slots. The hood was cut with a jigsaw, the grille and windshield were done with a sawzall and 4.5" grinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In order to fit the 231 behind the 32 spline NV4500 I used a 32 spline NP241 input, and at the same time added a 6 gear planetary out of a 241 for good measure. I took the 23 spline input gear out of a spare D300 I had in order to mate the 300 to the doubler.

After building a transmission crossmember and test fitting the Box4Rocks it was obvious that a clocking ring was in needed to get the doubler out of harms way, so another order to Duffy was made.

The whole 231/300 assembly is not very heavy and can easily moved around my one person...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Then I started bending the tube. I used masking tape in some places in order to make sure what I wanted before wasting a bunch of tube. The stuffs not cheap. The plan is to mount the gas tank at an angle in order to prevent fuel starvation on steep obstacles. Time will tell if this is a bad idea or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have started on the front tubing but still have a lot of work to do. I plan is to tie the fender tubes into the main cage through the tub and I will be adding more tube to the frame and using plate to transition from box frame to tube. The winch is being placed on the axle truss in order to minimize sprung weight in the front on the overworked airshocks... I still haven't figured out how to fit the steering ram yet... :rasta:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's about it so far. I still have to figure out front suspension, F&R steering, and finish the front tube work... I will post more as things progress.
 

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Just a leaf spring guy myself, but I am not so sure about the airshocks on top of the high steer arms...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
that things long and low, whats the WB as it sits now?
~123" but that may change a bit as things progress. The Jeep is sitting at full bump right now 20" off of the ground at the frame. It should end up 4-5" higher at ride height with a flat belly skid approx. and inch below that.

Narrowed, cut, welded, stock B pillar???
I know its not ideal... However, it is 2 1/8" dia. HREW and after the pictures posted above I have since reinforced it with plate as well as having it intersect with a tube to the windshield frame. It should be as strong as the 1.75 .120 DOM used everywhere else. I may throw a couple of gussets on it before everything is finished if I think it needs it.

Just a leaf spring guy myself, but I am not so sure about the airshocks on top of the high steer arms...
Me either... However, it has been done many times before and mounting the airshocks as far out as possible will help with stability.
 

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ive never mounted a tank in that way but i would think it would drastically increase the chance of starvation when running a steep trail downhill. ive never had a starvation issue but then again ive never made it below 1/2 tank on a steep trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ive never mounted a tank in that way but i would think it would drastically increase the chance of starvation when running a steep trail downhill. ive never had a starvation issue but then again ive never made it below 1/2 tank on a steep trail.
Good point...
The tank won't be at such a steep angle when it is mounted, probably half as much as pictured. It will be easy enough to change if it does create issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ballistic Fab has Kingpin Gussets that double as Shock Tabs. Those mounts on the Steering Arms are scary :eek:

Heres a link: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Dana-60-kingpin-Coil-over-Shock-mountsgussets_p_31-1154.html

Also what tires are u running with a 123" WB
What problems do you think I will have with mounting the shocks on the steering arms? Everything is still just tacked in place so things can be easily changed if legitimate reasons are raised.

I am building with the intention of running 42's.
 

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Well im not claiming to be an expert to be honest i dont know much about the strength of hi-steer arms it just seems to me like the bolts holding the arm would break considering they are taking the force of your suspension?

BTW nice build really cool idea! :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well im not claiming to be an expert to be honest i dont know much about the strength of hi-steer arms it just seems to me like the bolts holding the arm would break considering they are taking the force of your suspension?

BTW nice build really cool idea! :smokin:
I am not an expert either. :D
I posted the build before its completion so people can critique and voice concerns of anything which I may have overlooked.

The reason for not mounting shocks in the conventional location on the axle is due to my housings being 8" shorter than stock compounded with the unstable nature of airshocks. I am trying to get away with not needing to use swaybars so the shocks need to be mounted as far out as possible.

As far as breaking the highsteer studs, I don't see where the dampened up/down force of the shocks would cause this. I imagine the sideways force of the hydro steering rams will be a much greater force upon the arms and studs.

Here is a link discussing the mount placement on the highsteer arms and includes a few examples:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671754
 

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Jesster I am definitely going tokeep an eye on the build, you are a freaking brave man with the saw :D I was wondring the same as far as mounting the shocks to the top of the arms. To reinforce the mount to knuckle could you do a 5th bolt addition (i.e. dedenbear like)? I totally like the idea though!
 
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