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Natural progression

103401 Views 416 Replies 60 Participants Last post by  gottoys2000
I've been reading Pirate for years and I figured it was about time to have a place to post. Here is a natural progression in the eventual buggy evolution. I like having a back seat and room for tools so I left most of the bed in tact. I don't like the way the back turned out so cleaning that up will probably be next.

Here are some specs.
88 4Runner, All-Pro SAS 4" springs, 36 IROK's, 30 Spline Longs, high pinion front, V6 Rear, 4.88's, ARB's, TG 6 shooter knuckles, full hydro steering, Marlin 4.7 duel Ultimate case.



Suspension time

Looking silly with 29's

Ran Aftershock with 33's and an open front.

Cage

Cold Beer

Cut the back off and raised the bumper up and in 8"

Dig this shot

First flop

Poser shot.


Run what you brung.
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one hell of a 1 day build
I figured I'd start it this way and add detail as it becomes relevant.
Here is a bit of my learning lessons through the school of hard knocks. When climbing a steep waterfall cap the PCV. This passed California SMOG without doing anything but running it after this smoke out.

YouTube - Smoked out on the first water fall.

This truck has been up Aftershock, Claw Hammer (Day/night), Sledge hammer (Day/night), Jack Hammer, Wrecking Ball, and Bender Alley. I've also made Frodyce a regular occurrence and have run the con a few times. Haven't done Little Sluice yet but was in line when a truck broke in front of me. Sometime I'll make it back.

Basically I think this is a good formula but there is always room for improvement. The big question I have is do links really make that much difference in performance in the rocks?
88 Toyota 4Runner SR5

Winter Projects I'd love to link it but can't justify the cost at the moment. I'm a fan of keeping it simple and adding utility.
  • Rework rear cage tubing and tool storage
  • Master break cylinder
  • LC Engineering cam/rockers
  • 3 point seat belts for the rear
  • Move gas tank up
  • Track bar for the rear
  • Shave axle housings
  • Half doors


Here is why I want to change the rear tube work. It just looks kind of funny like it was an after thought. (which it was)

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How do you want to change the back end? I think you should dovetail it some.
Dove tail from the end of where I cut the body is a probable option. The body was cut with the shell in mind just after one of the stock bolt locations. I really like the lines of goose13's flatbed but don't know how I would tie that in with the 4runner body. I'll probably try to integrate, moving the gas tank behind the seats, adding a platform above the tank for the cooler and camping gear, and incorporating my ammo cans with easy access to tools toward the back, leaving room for a spare tire above the ammo cans.
Looks a bit different without the cage. The plan is to bring everything up and in. Dove tail the back sheet down at the bottom of the fenders leaving the shell and upper cage basically unchanged. I ran out of sawzall blades so I didn't get to the front bumper or sliders. I'll hopefully get to more this weekend.

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Nice rig man... Always nice when it just works!

:smokin:
Thanks! It's hard to argue with good results. I think the basics are covered but I'd like to fix some of the little things that I get hung up on.
The big question I have is do links really make that much difference in performance in the rocks?
The biggest difference I've noticed is that it doesn't HOP and bounce nearly as much when you are trying to get up difficult stuff. The tires generally just spin smoothly when they loose traction and gain it again smoothly too instead of all that spring wrap loading and unloading.
Thanks Erik. I've read that links help with HOP. I've heard that people that go to links wouldn't go back but as for wrap why wouldn't a traction bar produce the same results. I'm guessing that the rigidity of the links helps keep the axle better located. Whereas the leaf spring is flexing and allowing the axle to move but not necessarily wrap with a traction bar. It seems subtle but could be the difference.

I'm going to drop the fuel tank this weekend and take some measurements.
Thanks Erik. I've read that links help with HOP. I've heard that people that go to links wouldn't go back but as for wrap why wouldn't a traction bar produce the same results. I'm guessing that the rigidity of the links helps keep the axle better located. Whereas the leaf spring is flexing and allowing the axle to move but not necessarily wrap with a traction bar. It seems subtle but could be the difference.

I'm going to drop the fuel tank this weekend and take some measurements.
Totally agree with Eric, links almost eliminate wheel hop. Links can allow more articulation in certain situations but it looks like your spring set up allows plenty of flex and articulation.

THat is why I linked mine..........wheel hop killed me.........If I couldn't crawl it I couldn't make it. If you can build a link arm of some sort to control the spring wrap but yet allow for flex then I would do it. Leaf springs are simple and effective. Show us what you come up with.

More pics of the gf please! :)
Do you want to sell the old exo if you are not going to use it?
Show us what you come up with.

More pics of the gf please! :)
I will certainly keep you posted with build progress. Generally speaking my wife is off limits but here is a smile at the top of Jack. :flipoff2:

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Do you want to sell the old exo if you are not going to use it?
I guess I never thought of trying to sell it. I was planning on using the main hoop and the top but I don't really have a great use for the front clip. It is in sections now but you could probably join the front and the top back together and probably even join the sliders that I still have to cut off to mate up with the rest. The back is a loss but I do have a stout rear bumper that would mate up to a stock runner. I don't know make me an offer. I can get pictures of the parts if you want them.
The top and main hoop is what I need the most but pm me some pics anyway.
Well I dropped the fuel tank and if I thought I might get away with not messing with the suspension this talked me out of it. Here is my first crack at the link numbers. I think if I move the rear axle back 3" stretching my wheel base from 105" to 108" I can squeeze the upper link just behind the foot well of the back seat. Looks like the fuel tank won't find a home until the rest is thought through.

Here is a picture of the cage for anyone that wants to talk me into starting over from scratch. :D

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I started narrowing the front but decided half way into it that cutting the front clip off and remounting all the components that are mounted to the wheel-well would be easier than trying to re-weld it back together.

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Nice!!

Are going to reskin the front end with your fenders and hood?

I lowered the front of my hood almost 5" ..... it was amazing how much more you can see :)

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