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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just got a pretty much stock 84 fj60. i don't know much about the factory 6 cyl engines, i'm a chevy V8 kinda guy. this thing runs ok but when it gets hot it idles really uneven; oscillates between 1000 and 1500 rpm's. pretty sure it's a vacuum leak but don't know where to check.
any pointers?
thanks for your help!
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EGR valve? pretty common problem, and can be tested easily. Spendy unit though ($125 from the dealer - ouch) so make sure before you replace it that that is the problem.
 

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Zeus of the Sluice
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If it is an EGR valve, I may have one in my junk pile. let me know if ya need it <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
 

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Intake and exhaust leaks are common on rigs with stock parts over 125K miles or so. EGR can be a problem, too. Intake cracks under the carb are somewhat common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
motor was rebuilt 7K ago, whole rig has 51K on it. checked the manifolds, they're cool!
hey don! coming by tonight? 955-1217 call me!
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Hey Orange,

The main problem with the manifolds cracking is that they crack where you can't see it. Especially frustrating is when they crack at the carb. base. Not only do you have a crack, but it is right above the exhaust manifold, and that area is known to get a little hot <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> A competent machine shop can weld up the crack and true the manifolds. Make sure the heat riser plate is working too. Tim Coffey's manifold was cracked all to hell but once it was repaired, it ran like a top! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

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I know, just make your old buddy len a deal on one of those 2fs and then you can help fund your 350 swap <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
don't worry len; that 2f's got your name all over it, sure it'll be a nice price tag(for you) too. fawkin boatanchor!!!!!
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cool, scary thing is you guys got me thinkin v8, Im just too damn lazy to go through all that hassle though <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Im thinkin a mild build up on a desmogged 2f. Im not sure if I can use my headers and dist., but Im thinkin cam, mill the head, bigger carb. just a little more to get me up the hills on the way to the trail. think its worth it, or just throw a v8 in there <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by orangeFJ45wagon:
<STRONG>motor was rebuilt 7K ago, whole rig has 51K on it. </STRONG>
Ok, why the HELL would a 2F get rebuilt with only 44,000 miles on it?

I have WELL over 150K on mine and it runs like a top.

Georg, I fear it has 151K on it or the engine was thrashed beyond belief.

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alot of people are really not into landcruisers as much as us, can you believe they would actually consider most of us fanatics <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Im thinkin if someone non mechanically inclined took it to a mechanic and they told them it needed rebuilt most non mechanically inclinded people would believe them and then have it done. not all shops are honest or even competent for that matter. thats one scenerio the other would be that the guy that sold it to george lied to cinch the deal <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> ohh the humanity of it all <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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both of my 84 fj60's have odometers w/ 6 digits on them, so it may have 1,051,000 miles on it. if the paint is worn off, not by oxidation, but friction from the wind, then thats probably the case.

As for a built 2f, it may be worth it. I have a built 2f (milled .060 & a 270D cam, de smog & header soon, est. 150HP)in my SOA fj60 w/ 35" mudders & 3.70's. It will pull a 5% grade @ 70+ MPH in 3rd gear @ 3800RPM's. its a good little motor but nothing like my other 60 w/ the TBI350, 700r4, 3.70's & 31" tires. it will pull the same hill @ 90 MPH & 3500RPM. the difference in cost of a 350 install verses a built 2f is about $1500 & a hell of alot more work.

As for the fj60 running rough, if you could get away w/ it where you live, desmog it & put a header on it & maybe a bigger cam. its an EXTREMELY realiable motor, That will save you $$$ on conversion costs & speeding tickets, well maybe not the latter if you drive anything like I do. :)
 

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Originally posted by sixty:
<STRONG>both of my 84 fj60's have odometers w/ 6 digits on them, so it may have 1,051,000 miles on it. if the paint is worn off, not by oxidation, but friction from the wind, then thats probably the case.

As for a built 2f, it may be worth it. I have a built 2f (milled .060 & a 270D cam, de smog & header soon, est. 150HP)in my SOA fj60 w/ 35" mudders & 3.70's. It will pull a 5% grade @ 70+ MPH in 3rd gear @ 3800RPM's. its a good little motor but nothing like my other 60 w/ the TBI350, 700r4, 3.70's & 31" tires. it will pull the same hill @ 90 MPH & 3500RPM. the difference in cost of a 350 install verses a built 2f is about $1500 & a hell of alot more work.

As for the fj60 running rough, if you could get away w/ it where you live, desmog it & put a header on it & maybe a bigger cam. its an EXTREMELY realiable motor, That will save you $$$ on conversion costs & speeding tickets, well maybe not the latter if you drive anything like I do. :)</STRONG>
Thats what I wanted to hear. basically my f drives fine around town and I love it offroad. but on the way to the trail its a little weak and bogs down on long climbs. I thought about gears but then I lose my top speed and wont be able to keep up with the speed demon (fc187 <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> ) I dont think I need alot, so I wonder if it would be worth while to drop in a relatively stock 2f and then build it alittle if needed or just build it from the get go. this is gonna be in a 40 with 4.10s, 35s, and a sm420 btw.
 

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Nolen,
I had to think for awhile before I remebered, & I drive one everyday!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

69cruzer,
A mildly built 2f should do the trick for ya. make sure you get a newer one from an fj60 or atleast use a newer carb & ignition system. a cam makes a huge difference in power band & adds a few HP on thier own. a header is good. a milled head makes a big difference also. The only problem I think you'll have is the gear spacing on an sm420 is pretty wide, but considering your 1000 Lbs lighter than me it probably wont be much of a problem. If you decide to go w/ a cam let me know, I learned all the tricks the hard way <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

HTH
 

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just a few things to do w/ a cam, mostly to pass smog but also to gain some power. the first is to run smaller jets as the cam make the motor run richer & the most important thing to do is to set the valves to the clifford cam specs. all 2f cams are based on the original clifford settings. let me know what your after & I can help you build a motor good for up to about 190HP, w/ a bunch of bolt on stuff & a few engine mods (mostly oiling). Its all stuff that Mark Whatley has done to his motors.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
looks like we've sparked a flame here! i do sincerely appreciate everybody's input.
i'm going to make myself unpopular with some people(6cyl faithfuls) here and quote my grandpa: "you can't polish a turd!".
yeah, i know very funny but if the shoe fits?!
i'm going to convert this rig to a chevy V8 with a 4L60 trans and 241 t-case in about 6 months. right now i just want to get it running reliably enough so it can be driven until i tear into it.
i've done a few V8 conversions and have owned a couple of big block powered rigs so having to drive a 6 cyl is just not cool. and like i said before, this thing is going to spend most of it's life on the street. it will be driven to pismo (at more than 60mph) towing some dirt bikes and go play in the dunes a bit but that's it. it's also going to take over the jetski towing duties.
i know that the 2F is a super reliable motor. i also know that they last at least 150K or more miles if maintained properly.
this rig has 51K original miles on it and is very clean. i'd post a pic but can't figure out how (what a rocket scientist, huh?!). len's seen it. i know for a fact that the rig has been sitting for most of it's last 5 years and the engine has been rebuilt. former owner beat the hell out of the engine.
the last V8 conversion i finished was on a 60 with a 350 TBI and it was very driveable. that's one of the reasons why i want to do the conversions. second, i do like to tinker and do things a little differently. third, i've got a cherry 350 multi port EFI motor out of an Impalla SS that cost me: a big favor! fourth, my wife would rather drive an auto (here comes more hate-mail from the die hard cruiser crowd).
so why not?
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
some more info: fc187 and i worked on the rig a little last night. EGR valve checked out ok. the distributor had both vacuum lines to the advance plugged off. checked the advance; would'nt move. pulled the cap and oh yeah; rust city! pulled the distributor to clean it up but module is super rusty! anybody got one? rest of the dist. looks pretty good. already have a new vac. adv. module.
thanks again!
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
oh yeah, one more thing. fc187 and i were trying to figure out a couple of (Vacuum?) hoses last night.
first one starts at the very bottom of the HAC valve and goes to? there are i think 4 small vacuum hoses on this valve that are accounted for but this other one is about twice the size and i can't find where it's supposed to attach.
second one is about the same deal on a samll valve just above the HAC valve. this one has 3 small lines that are all hooked up and one larger line that looks almost like a vent; is not attached anywhere on the other end.
any ideas?
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