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Discussion Starter #1
Today I took my rig down the hwy and was about to be taken by a van untill i hit a bump and I must have scared the shit out of the poor guy driving the van because I almost went into his lane in a hurry, he backed way off my guess is he was thinking I was going to roll it and he wanted a good seat to watch this proformance. I cant figure this out, I have a 85runner it has a 7" lift the front springs are fairly stiff and the rears are 3" with a 4" block, I`m running brand new 35"bfg mud`s and rs5000 on all 4 corners, it also has a vented rotor conversion with ifs calipers, the steering stablizer shock is shot there is no resistance in or out and the front bar that connects the wheels looks like it was bent and straightened (prity good job can barely see the bend), I also measured the front and back of the tires and they toe out 1/4", the rear springs look like they have seen better days but still in good shape. Any help to get this thing to go straight down the road would be great thanks.....
 

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Ya , 1/4" toe out will give you alot of wander. So will bump steer. Toe it in and fix that stabilizer. How is it when you get on the brakes hard?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it pulls to the right, and i thought it shouldn`t pull the brakes were bled properly and everything is new.
 

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Switch the tire left to right and see if it still pulls in the same direction.

Stupid test, but often times it's the stupid things that fix my stupid problems. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I`ll try switching the tires but they are brand new 0 miles, I do plan on getting a new rancharo stablizer fixing the toe out to toe in and replacing the bar from the left to the right tire I have one brand new from a land cruzer (much bigger and longer) I will have to get it cut and rethreaded anyone know if the tierod ends from a land cruzer will just fit into the runner steering thingies that hold the knuckle bearings? <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Phil Linker:
<STRONG>Draglink angle. When the suspension compresses, the rig steers right. BTDT.

I'll bet push/pull steering.</STRONG>
I agree!! If this is push pull (stock) steering have you flipped the ball on the "J" arm and use a dropped DL? Also replace the steering Stab.

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Discussion Starter #9
sorry was away for a bit its stock steering not x-over and i have a drop drag-link but didn`t flip the ball on the J arm i didn`t know you could, i haven`t hit any big holes in the road to make the suspention bounce enough to cause the mad bump steer i had.and it pulls to the right kinda controled when i hit the brakes the bump steer is both ways(to the left and right)

[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: randy6971 ]
 

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I have a 81 pick-up with x-over and its doing the same thing. I just put on a new stabilizer, and I tried playing with the toe-in toe-out thing but nothing seemed to really work. What about the bearings on the top and bottom of the knuckles? If they wore out would that have any thing to do whith it?
 

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Originally posted by Fubar 81:
<STRONG>I have a 81 pick-up with x-over and its doing the same thing. I just put on a new stabilizer, and I tried playing with the toe-in toe-out thing but nothing seemed to really work. What about the bearings on the top and bottom of the knuckles? If they wore out would that have any thing to do whith it?</STRONG>
Yep!!! If the pre-load not not set right it can cause it to, The bigger the tires the closer to the high end of the pre-load you should be.

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How about the springs?
You say you have 7"? Is that all spring lift in the front? And you have 3" spring/4" block in the rear? I would imagine the rear springs would be pretty stiff compared to the fronts, then.

Seems if you have more flex on the front springs, and very flat, stiffer springs in the rear, that the rear would bounce harder and make the tail end swing one way or the other...... ??

I have some similar issues, and I know my rear springs have a THICK add-a-leaf, and are flatter/stiffer than the fronts. I also have a locker in the rear.
Mine was really bad until I pulled the wacky traction bar/coilover shocks that a PO had on there....Its better now, but mine has multiple issues, some of which I still have to address.

[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: Cracker ]
 

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Originally posted by randy6971:
<STRONG>sorry was away for a bit its stock steering not x-over and i have a drop drag-link but didn`t flip the ball on the J arm i didn`t know you could, i haven`t hit any big holes in the road to make the suspention bounce enough to cause the mad bump steer i had.and it pulls to the right kinda controled when i hit the brakes the bump steer is both ways(to the left and right)

[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: randy6971 ]</STRONG>
To flip the ball you have to grind off the welded, mushroomed end and use a press to push it out. Some are a real bitch to get out, I did one and my press pushed it out with hardly any problem. The seconded one took everything my 20 ton press had. Then you put it in the other side and weld it on both sides. Pre heat the arm before you weld it and let it cool by itself, do not quench in water. If you have the torque rod off that is why it is pulling right under breaking. The axle rolls forward and the steering is pulled to the right. Do yourself a favor and the other people on the road, with that much lift you need x-over steering.

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[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: OOPS ]
 

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Discussion Starter #14
looks like I`ll try the x-over steering, My front springs are prity stiff and the rears seem to be prity soft the front are all spring with a (i beleave a 4deg shim) thanks guys for your help I`ll comtinue to watch this board for more info.
 

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Randy--- the hitting the brakes and pulling to the right thing is gonna happen when the torque rod has been removed so I think you will just have to get used to that....unless you put the rod back on checking to see if it is approximately parallel with the draglink. To save on your tires, adjust the toe to about 1/8" to the inside. The nipple flip is a great mod to do. It will make your draglink 'happier' and should reduce the pull to the right some. I am told it is a bitch to flip it but will post pics of a spare J arm I plan on doing it to shortly....maybe even tomorrow. Good luck.

[ 10-17-2001: Message edited by: ZUK ]
 

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<font color="yellow">
This should explain some of your problems. The All Pro website has tons of great info for new Toyota owners to read. Granted, their stuff is pricey, but it high quality, andalso gives you an idea of what you can build yourself if you have the know-how.

Oh, and the "rod thingy" connecting you tires which you've bent is called the TIE ROD.

Once again, allow me to break out my own version of the official pirate welcome:
</font>
 

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Originally posted by MasterYota:
[QBGranted, their stuff is pricey, but it high quality, [/QB]
Here are the prices on three different Hy-Steer kits. All pretty close in price. How do you figure AP is a "bit pricey"

All Pro Hy-Steer Kit
FJ-80 Kit Pickup / 4Runner / FJ-60 , $649 (our most popular kit)

OTT Hy-Steer Kit-Does not come with tie rod ends
Kit including LH and RH steering arms, pitman arm , tie rod and draglink with jam nuts $545.00 US

Marlin Hy-Steer
Kit Includes:
Heavy Duty Marlink (see above)
Heavy Duty Drag Link
Heavy Duty modified pitman arm ($40 core)
2 Cast Iron Steering Arms
$649.00


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Discussion Starter #18
looks like I`m going to have to go x-over I have my 88 as a donor to get some of the parts and i guess I`ll find a welding shop to weld the right side up for the new change my welding isnt that up to par, replace the stablizer shock and adjust the toe in to 1/8 in, I`ll post pic`s as soon as I get the film developed it looks sweet concidering what I had to start with a rusted out piece of crap 5 months later and alot of blood,sweat and beer she came alog just fine thanks everyone for your help I`m sure there was alot done on my runner that I wouldn`t have attempted without your help.
 

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Originally posted by OOPS:
<STRONG>How do you figure AP is a "bit pricey"?</STRONG>
<font color="yellow">By comparing it to paying for the high-steer arms, and doing the rest yourself. That's how.

Just like their kit for the solid axle swap. You can pay $1700, which is resonable, or do it your self and maybe spend $200, maybe spend $2500. It just depends on how much oyu can do yourself.

Granted, in theis case, he'd probably want to buy a kit. No offense, but I wouldn't want to be in the next lane over when a guy passes me that built his steering himself, and didn't know enough about the theory involved to know what a "tie rod" is.</font>
 

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Originally posted by MasterYota:
<STRONG>
Originally posted by OOPS:
[qb]How do you figure AP is a "bit pricey"?</STRONG>
<font color="yellow">By comparing it to paying for the high-steer arms, and doing the rest yourself. That's how.

Just like their kit for the solid axle swap. You can pay $1700, which is resonable, or do it your self and maybe spend $200, maybe spend $2500. It just depends on how much oyu can do yourself.

Granted, in theis case, he'd probably want to buy a kit. No offense, but I wouldn't want to be in the next lane over when a guy passes me that built his steering himself, and didn't know enough about the theory involved to know what a "tie rod" is.</font>[/QB]
I would like to see you build a tie rod Just like Marlins, AP, Rockstomper, OTT and who ever else makes them with the RH and LH metric threads. The left-hand tap is over $100.00. Some time I think that you guys think that these people should give the stuff way. There is R&D, labor, supplies all need to be factored into the cost that go into a limited selling product. The big picture on this is they are lucky if they sell two hundred units a year!

Are you related to DRM? <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Or does everyone from Tennessee think they have all the answers??? <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 
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