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Discussion Starter #1
I started reading about this on PM and it was WAY over my head. I have no clue what chuck and key my floor model porter cable drill press takes. I recenly dropped the chuck out the shaft, then pressed the shaft back in and think I damaged the chuck in doing so as its near impossable to open and close. I need someting new/better.
 

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A model number would be a good start.
 

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Unfortunately, I wasn't able to figure out what size taper your chuck is. I found out the part numbers for the spindle and chuck, but that's it, meaning they're still gonna be Chicom junk.

But the spindle arbor has a MT2 (number 2 Morse taper), I just don't know what the chuck taper is.

If you're willing to drop some coin, you could buy a known spindle and get a Jacob's ($$$) chuck.

Drill Chuck Arbors | MSCDirect.com

Drill Chucks | MSCDirect.com

Or if you want to go cheap and factory,

Spindle is P/N: 0HY8
Chuck and key is P/N: 0J28

^^^ The factory stuff is gonna pull up a few different brands, all rebadged stuff.

Hope that's what you were looking for.
 

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And those don't press on per se. They use friction to keep from falling out/spinning, obviously, but a couple light taps should seat them pretty well, no need to waller on it.
 

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can't make a recommendation but when you tap the new one on have the chuck open all the way where the jaws are above the body
 

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Discussion Starter #10
man, im glad I waited that thing is nice. Any issues with large bits slipping inside of it? Also in the event of taking it out how do you take it out? When removing a bit as my DP doesnt have reverse how easy does it unscrew to remove the bit?
 

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Never had a problem with slippage so far, although most of the larger bits I use are hex shank.

I always just turn the chuck part by hand to tighten it down; the belts & motor usually have enough resistance to get it 90% of the way there and then you just hold the top/bottom parts and give it one last twist. Removing the bit is similar, actually easier...just rotate the spindle/chuck by hand in the forward direction, then stop it suddenly - inertia from the motor and pulleys will usually loosen it up right away.

If I had to take it out, I could probably get a drift punch or something similar in the slot on the side of the spindle...or you could likely use a different arbor, like the one in your first link. It's all standard tapers.

Definitely way more accurate (especially with smaller bits) and 'tight' than the junky one that came with the HF press.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok you sold me :) did your arbor come on the chuck? How do you usually install them? I've heard a small hammer, but that never works 4 me. Block of wood on the table and press down?
 

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And those don't press on per se. They use friction to keep from falling out/spinning, obviously, but a couple light taps should seat them pretty well, no need to waller on it.
ok you sold me :) did your arbor come on the chuck? How do you usually install them? I've heard a small hammer, but that never works 4 me. Block of wood on the table and press down?
A block of wood and pressing down will work as well. But if a couple taps from a hammer doesn't seat it then you either have

A) The wrong taper
B) A damaged taper
C) Debris on the taper (they should be wiped clean and completely DRY before installing)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
vetteboy79 was right on this chuck, its great for the price. I don't think I could go back to keyed chuck now! Its very smooth when opening and closing. Only thing I can say is it is a lot longer than my keyed chuck but that's not an issue with my floor model.
 

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Cool man, glad it worked out.

My production manager at work is the one who told me about it, we put one on our shop drill press and he's got 3 others on different presses in his own garage. Great value IMO.

And yes, it's longer...if anyone reading this needs to know the overall length, let me know and I'll measure it next time I'm out there.
 
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