[bofer]

So i have done tons of reading and have decided im not going to let all the other guys have all the fun out there and im going to start taking my jeep build in the direction of ECORS and Ultra4 4500 series racing. I am hoping i can pick up some advice as i have several question after all my research, but first let me tell you the plans:

The jeep as it sits currently:
95 YJ, comp cut, 37" pitbulls
SOA, XJ rear and REs up front
front wagoneer dana 44, 1 ton high steer, hydro assist 4.88s
yukon chromos and warn lockouts (currently welded)
rear 31 spline 8.8 (currently welded), 4.88s
(385hp) ford 351w (TBI injection) fully rebuilt by race shop
ron davis aluminum radiator
electric spal fan
ford C6 w/ tranny cooler and art car shifter
NP205, twin sticked
fuel cell.
corbeau racing seats and 5 point harnesses
steel beadlocks
custom tranny mount (prepped for 4 link)
all new autometer gauges in factory dash

I think my jeep has pretty good bones for building a rig that could place decently in the ECORS and Ultra4 stock mod classes. i know i have lots to do, but wanted to get your opinions on some things as there is so much knowledge on this board. here are the basic plans, let me know if anything seems off. im specifically worried about my axle combo

Full Cage (not sure if i can build off of the factory YJ B Pillar or not and pass inspection????
14" coilovers in front
16" coilovers in rear
3 link front or triangulated 4 if it will fit, triangulated 4 link rear
truss front 44, jana k4 kit with load bolts and rcvs
truss rear 8.8, install load bolts and superior 88 kit
raceline aluminum wheels
new fuel cell with bladder
gps, etc...

What are your thoughts, especially on if the axles will hold to that abuse?

 

[fatmouse]

Having raced both ECORS and ultra4 in both 4500 and 4400 races with JRTOffroad's 4580 car....

I would not expect those axles to last. When you are racing, especially on the east coast with its more rock heavy trails you can't baby the rig enough and be fast to make that equipment hold up.

We have abused the shit out of our front 9/60 hybrid and rear 60 and have lost the rear 60 r/p at KOH. We've busted outers, inners, u joints, ring and pinions and entire third members in our years of racing. Hell, we broke our first dana 60 housing in half at an ECORS race.

Not trying to be a negative nancy here, but rock racing is HELL on axles and there is a reason EVERYONE is running the best they can afford in 1 ton drivetrains.

 

[Kunker]

It would be worthwhile to talk to other East Coasters about gearing as well - not sure if the 2:1 of a 205 is going to cut it when it's a lot of tight woods racing.

How has the 44 held up for rec wheeling? Going LQ4 in the CJ next year, and wondering if it's even worthwhile to try with the Waggy 44 up front.

 

[Pokeman]

What are your thoughts, especially on if the axles will hold to that abuse?

I'm just breaking in an east coast race buggy TO built. only 300HP, I already think my HP 60 front with 35spl chromo's and Super Joints is a weak spot. I'll have to be mindful of it to make sure I can finish.

I think my rear Sterling 10.25 will be OK. But I'm prepared to beef up those shafts if its not.

I'm on 43sx. I'd be more comfortable with my set up on 37's.

If you need to use those axles keep the tire size down. Line Mountain can be run on 35's just fine. The Rausch series races made the tracks easier to attract Line Mountain as well. The ECORS I've seen on youtube might be fine on 35's also. If your building to race, I'd start with the smallest comfortable tire size.

 

[BroadSword]

I raced my old SOA YJ in the inaugural 2011 Dirt-Riot season with a stock 30spl Dana 60 rear and Cromo 44 front. If you drive smart it can be done, but I wouldn't recommend it. But, if thats what you have now, I would say run it.

My recommendation would be to focus on the safety requirements and then get out and start racing. You will quickly learn what works and what doesn't. I think too many people get bogged down building a race car and then don't have time or money left to actually race.

Also, go through the rule book(s) several times before you start building or moding. I'm not sure about ECORS, but for Ultra4 4500 / Dirt-Riot 4500, 14" is the max length on shocks/coilovers. Rulebook | Ultra4Racing.com

 

[JRTOffroad]

Great to see another racer looking to compete in the Mod class!

Like Broadsword said, I would try and get out and race to figure out what works and what doesn't. You can spend a life time (and life savings) trying to build the perfect car...:flipoff2:

Don't worry about a load bolt in the rear axle, gear deflection should not be an issue since it's on the drive side of the gear. For 99% of applications out there, I'd only add a load bolt to a low pinion front or high pinion rear since they run on the coast side of the gear and generate MUCH higher seperation forces.

I wouldn't go crazy on load bolts, gear upgrades, RCV's and what not just yet. Truss the axles and maybe pickup some chromoly shafts for the rear (you already have them for the front) and see how it does before you invest too much. Your driving style will dictate where your weak links are.

I actually think the NP205 & 4.88 gears might work real well for a lot of racing out east. There's typically not all that much crawling and this might let you run most courses in low range.

 

[bofer]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the feed back. I definitely want to upgrade my axles at some point, however i was hoping i could get by with these for a while - but as some of you were leading to, it probably isn't worth it to build these knowing they will never survive. I have a 14 bolt sitting around, so the other option is always a 60/14 bolt combo, but i really want to build this rig centered around 37s (which i believe is the max tire size for the stock mod classes) and light. The other option i guess is buy some fab 9 housings and run JY dropouts for a little and upgrade as i go??

JRToffroad - you are actually right, the np205 paired with 4.88s and 37s is actually ridiculously perfect. PLENTY of wheel speed when needed and i am maxed out speed wise in low at 65ish 70mph. I don't know what typical speed is during an ECORS event, but i know its mostly fast and tight - you can imagine with a lot of hp and low gearing acceleration is fantastic

I guess i will focus on my cage work and safety equipment first before i dive into the 4 link and coil overs. Any suggestions on some must haves?