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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(Little long)
Bought a 84 yota xtra cab a while ago already somewhat built. 4" susp lift 3" body. 15x12 rims with 35x15.5 M/T baja claws. and a one piece rear driveshaft. Paid $800 for it. not bad since this thing has pulled some pretty big rigs out of the mud. (bronco and jeep) Yeah I bought it to play in the mud with.
Well brought it out the other day and blew the front seal on the motor.
Well a guy I was with just happens to have a fresh 355 in his garage and a couple th-350's. One is the long tail shaft and the other a short tail shaft with a cracked bellhousing. No big deal we can gut the one and put the other tail shaft on it. Cool.
Well I am very new to the yota and didn't really start researching it till now.

I have a few questions for you guys.

1. Where is the cheapest place for the motor mounts?
2. Am I going to be able to use the stock t-case since I guess it is a front mounted shifter? Or am I going to need a different one?
3. How can I mount the tranny crossmember up or do I need a new piece?
4. What kind of shifter do I need if I can just pull the plate off the top of the t-case and stick a new one in there?
5. what size convertor am I going to need?

I think that is all for now unless you guys know of more issues. I think I already have the radiator/tranny cooler figured out. Already have block huggers for it. All accessories are coming with the motor also.

Thanks
Nick
 

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front seal is easy to fix dont even need to remove timing cover, just pull radiator,fan, fan clutch, main pully, damper, oil pump. get new seal, install on oil pump, or get new oil pump fairly cheap. make sure damper is in good condition install sleeve if nessesary, and go. id do this and drive around untill you compile all parts for v8 swap . can easily be done in half a day. you said the truck does well right now anyway, id do the cheap thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well it does all right but I would just rather do it now that I have the money for it. This thing is probably going to be a really sick little toy when I get done with it.
 

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goinbigger said:
Well it does all right but I would just rather do it now that I have the money for it. This thing is probably going to be a really sick little toy when I get done with it.
Why, it gots a cold :confused: :flipoff2:
 

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goinbigger said:
Well it does all right but I would just rather do it now that I have the money for it. This thing is probably going to be a really sick little toy when I get done with it.
to swap it out now would be dumb, id put the $10 worth of parts it takes to fix it, fix it and drive it while you buy/compile all the parts nessesary for the swap. oh and youll probably end up selling the truck if you go the swap route:flipoff2:

for the forward shift t-case problem, http://www.marlincrawler.com/topshift.html


try http://www.downeyoff-road.com for motormounts
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well since that adapter wouldn't work on mine that I found for sale I am just going to use an np205 that is laying around and get a new rear driveshaft made. The old motor is already out, the tranny and t-case are coming out tonight. Going to probably spray paint the enging bay while I'm at it and spray the rest of the truck after it is all in.
No I don't plan on selling it after I am done. How can you beat a truck that crazy for less than $2300 invested? No i think I'm going to keep my play toy for a while.
Thanks guys.
 

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goinbigger said:
Well since that adapter wouldn't work on mine that I found for sale I am just going to use an np205 that is laying around and get a new rear driveshaft made. The old motor is already out, the tranny and t-case are coming out tonight. Going to probably spray paint the enging bay while I'm at it and spray the rest of the truck after it is all in.
No I don't plan on selling it after I am done. How can you beat a truck that crazy for less than $2300 invested? No i think I'm going to keep my play toy for a while.
Thanks guys.
It still got toy/junk axles under it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well the rear is switching to a GM 10bolt 8.5" ring gear with 4:11's and a locker. Shortened 2" to fit under the yota and everything already set up for it.
 

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Well the rear is switching to a GM 10bolt 8.5" ring gear with 4:11's and a locker. Shortened 2" to fit under the yota and everything already set up for it.
Now THAT'S a nice upgrade. :rolleyes:

Doc
 

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goinbigger said:
and for $100 never under a truck wouldn't you?
Hell no, would go shoot holes in that POS...

There is only one diff, the 60! everything else is garbage (well, the 14b isnt a bad option either, but heavier and less clearance off the the boot)
 

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the toy is way the hell stronger then a ten bolt, even the dana 44 its stronger!

anyone who swaps out for anything less then a dana 60 is wasting cash :flipoff2:
 

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goinbigger said:
How can you beat a truck that crazy for less than $2300 invested?

Your truck isn't that crazyily built, I've seen alot better built for less.

I agree,stick with your Toy axles untill you can go 60's. I wish I would have built 60's instead of my 44/12 bolt stuff. I can kinda justify them,I've got a grand total of $350 in both axles. Thats gearing,lockers,hysteer,rear disc, basically everything from the u-bolts down. I've got that much out of the little wheeling I've done since I finished my build. I'll eventually build 60's,I know they are ticking timebombs.
 
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