aight i found a deal i can't refuse on a 1979 dodge pickup. it has i'm told a 318 v-8, 4x4, and an automatic tranny. the tranny is blown though it only goes into reverse. I'm wondering what kind of tranny i'm gonna be needing to get and around how much they cost. I'm really interested in this truck a friend is selling it and i can pick it up for a steal. Also i'd like to know what kind of axles it comes with.
need some truck info
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If the truck is a half ton, it came with a unit bearing dana 44, and an AAM 9.25" rear axle, both with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. If it is 3/4 ton it has a unit bearing dana 44 front, a 30 spline dana 60 rear, and an 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern.
Your Transmission is a 727 3 speed auto. I was pricing out rebuild kits for mine, and they run about $100 for the kit, plus the ttorque converter. i say go for it. I picked up a rebuilt 727 out of an 87 dodge van for $72 after tax and core, at pick and pull. Parts are cheap, and these trucks are easy to work on.
Have fun with it.
Garrett
Your Transmission is a 727 3 speed auto. I was pricing out rebuild kits for mine, and they run about $100 for the kit, plus the ttorque converter. i say go for it. I picked up a rebuilt 727 out of an 87 dodge van for $72 after tax and core, at pick and pull. Parts are cheap, and these trucks are easy to work on.
Have fun with it.
Garrett
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I paid $72 for a complete rebuilt tranny at pick and pulls half off day. Now this one is for my 2wd dodge, but still, same tranny, but different output shaft. Basically, you need a dodge/chrysler/plymouth 727 that came behind a 318. A 360 tranny will work, but requires a different torque converter from what i understand. I find it easest to find them in dodge vans from about 67-90ish, or if you want one out of a truck, look for one from about the same era. Many many mopars with a small block/auto combo came with this auto. Honestly, i find alot of them at wrecking yards all the time. On top of that, from what i understand, it is one of the easiest transmissions to work on. If the 2wd were a daily driver still, i would have rebuilt it insted of buying used. Also, as a side note, you can get a B+M i believe, 727 auto, all ready to go for about $800 NEW from summit racing.
Garrett
Garrett
even worse idea to throw a shady "used" tranny in it. personally i'd rather be on the side of the highway with a smoked tranny than a trail in the middle of nowhere with 20 angry wheelers behind me.bugeyed said:
spend the money, remove the trans, take it to a shop and it'll only set ya back less than $500 and you'll be golden for along time. 727 is one burly trans from the factory. just my.02:beer:
hmm there is no decent trans shop around me except aamco and i won't deal with them because they gave me an 800$ estimate on my truck and ended up charging me 1799. Had a few words with them so i don't really wanna take it back there. Oh well I'm looking into all sorts of different angles thanks for the help
I say get a B&M Transkit and DIY. $216.75 from Summit; part # BMM-10229. You'll also need a good heavy set of snap ring pliers (not the kind with tits on the end) but not much else in the way of special tools. A very clean place to work is essential for an AT. 727's are simple and tough; IMO it's worth doing it for the experience and peace of mind to know it's right.
I'd rather be safe than sorry on the trail, for sure, but I'd bet that you could find somebody besides thos AAMCO idiots to rebuild it. Ask around. Shoot a high school shop class kid would do better work than those guys. Not to mention you wouldn't get ripped a new bunghole either. But, the deal is, with that tranny, once it's done up right, it'll last for a long time w/ the right maintenance. I have a 727 behind a 318 in an 83 Sno Commander Package Heavy half ton, and it has been thru hell and laughed the whole time. There's my 10 cents, my 2 cents are free.
Although I'm not a fan of B&M, I agree, rebuild it yourself. Anyone that can rebuild an engine, should have no problem with a 727. If you're worried, buy the 727 rebuild video from JC Whitney and take a look. You'll be shocked how easy they really are.Lloyd said:
Ok, newbie...but know my dodges!
The 1/2 tons came with the fulltime D44 standard, but also could have a parttime (hubs style) D44 if it was ordered. The fulltime bearings are noted as weaker, but if most people study the design, it is very similar to that in the 94+ dodge trucks...with the exception that you can change individual bearings in the older model as well as grease them externally through a hole and a grease fitting in the rotor. I believe if you keep these greased they will give good mileage (I think dodge got a bunch of bad bearings when these were built). Most 1/2 tons came 9.25" Corp (which is made by Eaton from what I have read, not AAM) although, some had 8.75"ers and some actually had a semi-floating version of the D60 (very rare and an RC option only I believe).
3/4 tons could have either a fulltime D44 or a D60 with (get this for strength) drive flanges instead of hubs. If you got the D44, then you get a D60 rear. If you get the D60 front, then you get a D70 rear. I believe the D60 front was offer primarily on ClubCabs and the four door cabs. The D60 front can be converted to hubs easily from what I have read.
They also had a single rear wheel 1-ton. D60/D70 combo.
T cases, fulltime = NP203, loads of miles usually mean a stretched chain. parttime should be a NP205 all gear driven...the dodge 205s are the best versions of any of the 205 (chevy, dodge, ford)since they have a large input shaft.
Tranny, yep 727...make sure they don't try to sell you a 904. You can also change it over to a four speed (either a NP435 or NP445) and get rid of the auto (find a donor truck for the swap parts)
When you do the tranny (auto), make sure you know what CID (ie. 318 or 360) your engine is...the torque converter is balanced differently for each. If you run a 360 converter on a 318, you will blow the #6 or #8 (?) rod out the side of the block...and you won't get any warning tha you have installed the wrong converter. This goes for the flywheel of a manual also if you go the swap route.
Not trying to step on toes here, but thought I would just add some more thought to some of this. Also, keep in mind, with a truck this old...someone could have swapped some major parts already leaving you guessing as to what you actually have!
good luck,
steved
The 1/2 tons came with the fulltime D44 standard, but also could have a parttime (hubs style) D44 if it was ordered. The fulltime bearings are noted as weaker, but if most people study the design, it is very similar to that in the 94+ dodge trucks...with the exception that you can change individual bearings in the older model as well as grease them externally through a hole and a grease fitting in the rotor. I believe if you keep these greased they will give good mileage (I think dodge got a bunch of bad bearings when these were built). Most 1/2 tons came 9.25" Corp (which is made by Eaton from what I have read, not AAM) although, some had 8.75"ers and some actually had a semi-floating version of the D60 (very rare and an RC option only I believe).
3/4 tons could have either a fulltime D44 or a D60 with (get this for strength) drive flanges instead of hubs. If you got the D44, then you get a D60 rear. If you get the D60 front, then you get a D70 rear. I believe the D60 front was offer primarily on ClubCabs and the four door cabs. The D60 front can be converted to hubs easily from what I have read.
They also had a single rear wheel 1-ton. D60/D70 combo.
T cases, fulltime = NP203, loads of miles usually mean a stretched chain. parttime should be a NP205 all gear driven...the dodge 205s are the best versions of any of the 205 (chevy, dodge, ford)since they have a large input shaft.
Tranny, yep 727...make sure they don't try to sell you a 904. You can also change it over to a four speed (either a NP435 or NP445) and get rid of the auto (find a donor truck for the swap parts)
When you do the tranny (auto), make sure you know what CID (ie. 318 or 360) your engine is...the torque converter is balanced differently for each. If you run a 360 converter on a 318, you will blow the #6 or #8 (?) rod out the side of the block...and you won't get any warning tha you have installed the wrong converter. This goes for the flywheel of a manual also if you go the swap route.
Not trying to step on toes here, but thought I would just add some more thought to some of this. Also, keep in mind, with a truck this old...someone could have swapped some major parts already leaving you guessing as to what you actually have!
good luck,
steved
Re: Ok, newbie...but know my dodges!
...and those external Selectro hubs SUCK. Want mine?
Actually, you can get internal-spline hubs from Six States now, ca. $75/ea. and run Warn hubs, which do not suck. A relatively expensive option, but the best way to put manual lockouts on one. I'm going with 35-spline drive flanges, at least for a while.
I used to think this too but have since seen a shitload of 60/60 combos, mainly in crew cab trucks. Many of these are county government vehicles here (yes, they'll run them forever) so I doubt they've been swapped.steved said:
...and those external Selectro hubs SUCK. Want mine?
Actually, you can get internal-spline hubs from Six States now, ca. $75/ea. and run Warn hubs, which do not suck. A relatively expensive option, but the best way to put manual lockouts on one. I'm going with 35-spline drive flanges, at least for a while.
umm, yes and no?
I believe you are correct, but in a sense. The D60/D60 combo you refer, I believe was the D60HD (which most started calling a D70 later on, the reason I call it a D60/D70 combo). It isn't a standard D60 with 1.3" shafts...these should have 1.5" shafts. Outside they look identical. I have a truck like this also (D60/D70 or D60HD) and I'll tell you it is horrible to get parts from a chain store cause most of those places don't list a D60HD...but a D70 is the same thing. I actually have read of 3 versions of the D60 fullfloater being offered, but I only know of two.
I also forgot that dodge offered a D70 closed-knuckle front in the early 70's, but it is actually weaker than a D44.
I have a D60 with the drive flanges which I'm going to run...I might get some driveline vibration (but even my 99 gives me that), but for the ultimate in D60 strength, flanges should hold up better than hubs. I'll probably run flanges since this will be in a "toy". They are starting to phase out the CAD and just unlock the tcases when in 2wd...figure I can get away doing the same thing!
Speaking of axle strength, I found a set of eatons(?) in a yard in Gallup, New Mexico when I was scrounging parts...these are military single wheel width axles (5 on very big bolt pattern??)...should be easy to swap into a fullsize truck...and the yard doesn't even know what they are worth. If anyones interested, it a place called Sweethearts II or maybe mother's...can't remember...check them out if you want BIG axles...these are NOT toploaders though.
I'm periodically out west, and go window shopping (read boneyard dreaming) when out and about...will let you know when I fing something cool like that. I can't use it, but someone else might be able to.
steved
One of these days, I might actually get one of the three old trucks I own on the road (and end up with a bunch of parts...or another truck??
I believe you are correct, but in a sense. The D60/D60 combo you refer, I believe was the D60HD (which most started calling a D70 later on, the reason I call it a D60/D70 combo). It isn't a standard D60 with 1.3" shafts...these should have 1.5" shafts. Outside they look identical. I have a truck like this also (D60/D70 or D60HD) and I'll tell you it is horrible to get parts from a chain store cause most of those places don't list a D60HD...but a D70 is the same thing. I actually have read of 3 versions of the D60 fullfloater being offered, but I only know of two.
I also forgot that dodge offered a D70 closed-knuckle front in the early 70's, but it is actually weaker than a D44.
I have a D60 with the drive flanges which I'm going to run...I might get some driveline vibration (but even my 99 gives me that), but for the ultimate in D60 strength, flanges should hold up better than hubs. I'll probably run flanges since this will be in a "toy". They are starting to phase out the CAD and just unlock the tcases when in 2wd...figure I can get away doing the same thing!
Speaking of axle strength, I found a set of eatons(?) in a yard in Gallup, New Mexico when I was scrounging parts...these are military single wheel width axles (5 on very big bolt pattern??)...should be easy to swap into a fullsize truck...and the yard doesn't even know what they are worth. If anyones interested, it a place called Sweethearts II or maybe mother's...can't remember...check them out if you want BIG axles...these are NOT toploaders though.
I'm periodically out west, and go window shopping (read boneyard dreaming) when out and about...will let you know when I fing something cool like that. I can't use it, but someone else might be able to.
steved
One of these days, I might actually get one of the three old trucks I own on the road (and end up with a bunch of parts...or another truck??
A 60HD is NOT a 70, it's a 60 with extra webbing in the casting. 60HD uses all standard 60 parts; it may or may not have 35 spline shafts - they came both ways. A 60 and a 60HD share the same gears (9.75" ring diameter) same pinion, same carriers and carrier bearings. A 70 has a 10.5" ring gear, longer pinion, bigger inner pinion bearing (same yokes) and the carrier bearings are bigger and further apart (except on the 70-2UA which they started using in some SRW '87-up Dodges). A 60HD is a 60, not a 70.
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Also, I have seen a few Dodge trucks that came from the factory with a 60 front and a standard (non HD) 60 rear. the 70 only went in trucks with the higher GVW.
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I would say at least 50% of the dodge trucks i have seen have a HD d60 rear axle. Only difference between them and a regular 60 is the casting. The d60HD has 1.31" 30 spline shafts, just like a regular dana 60, and a dana 44. Alot of these truck had them.
Garrett
Garrett
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