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Discussion Starter #1
Yes this is a technical post not a "Hey see my new Rock Sliders"...

OK so I had new All-Pro sliders welded on my 4Runner. They look OK and the welding job looks pretty good, but now I have new rattles and bangs coming from the body, especially rear of the doors inside the body, sounds like a hollow "bang" that's coming from the area around the seatbelt retractor anchor point. I've looked in there and don't see / feel anything loose. It started on the driver side, now it's on the passenger side too.

I noticed that the sliders seemed to make the truck ride rougher almost as if the frame was a LOT stiffer now. Also I can feel the suspension working harder than before.

Is this normal? What the #$%^ is going on?
 

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Are the legs to the frame touching the body? What shape are the body mounts in? When my nerfs were installed, it made no difference on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, just "slightly"... I mean barely. Just touching the seam.
 

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Well, if your body mounts are shot, the body may be moving enough to make noise. I would try trimming the body seam away from the nerf legs. You might as well, cause a good hit will push them into the body anyways, ask me how I know..... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Also, throw some poly body mounts in for kicks, it might help!
 

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It's possible when the sliders where welded on, the heat melted the rubber part of your body mounts, making them loose and causing them to rattle around. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bad karma:

I'll check the mounts, but aren't the All-Pros supposed to not flex? At least not THAT much...

Grabber:

I'll check that as well.

In any case looks like I'm in for new mounts. Maybe a 1" lift while I'm at it (Except I HATE body lifts... but if I want to fit those 37s in the future now's the time...)
 

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Originally posted by GRABBER:
<STRONG>It's possible when the sliders where welded on, the heat melted the rubber part of your body mounts, making them loose and causing them to rattle around. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
i agree and it's hot weldin' some days!
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by msahr:
<STRONG>I'll check the mounts, but aren't the All-Pros supposed to not flex? At least not THAT much...

Grabber:

I'll check that as well.

In any case looks like I'm in for new mounts. Maybe a 1" lift while I'm at it (Except I HATE body lifts... but if I want to fit those 37s in the future now's the time...)</STRONG>
The bars may not flex but your body does. Its attached to the frame with soft rubber bushings. Get some poly body mounts to start with. One of my rock slider customers mounted his bars a tad too high and I made him a set of 5/16" lift blocks which on top of poly mounts silenced his rattles:

Body Lift info.
 

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Dude,

If they're touching the seam, you need to do this:

1. Remove them.
2. Install them NOT TOUCHING any part of the body. I'd suggest at least 1/2" clearance.

They WILL flex enough to cause body damage as you have them mounted now.
 

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All nerf bars will flex. I have AllPro bars. Before we welded them on, I cut away little openings for the legs. There was about 1/2" clearance. Now the bars have been pushed up and dented the body. Not a big deal considering the shape it's in. I have tested them to the max. I think nerf bars are like a consumable item anyway. Sooner or later they will wear out and I will put new ones on.
To fix your problem, install poly body mounts. Insert a few fender washers above the bushings for a mini body lift. This should cure the problem. Or bend the body seam up near the legs. Hope this helps. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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AJINAK is right, whoever welded them on put them too close to the body. 1/2" is also what I'd consider a minimum. If you ever intend to use the things and come down hard on them, you'll bend them up into the door making it hard to open. It doesn't matter if it's Allpro ones or pipe ones, they'll flex a little bit.
I'd recommend cutting them off and rewelding them on if you ever intend to wheel the truck in the rocks. Or do a small body lift.
 

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All steel flexes when force is applied, even your truck's frame twists slightly when driven as will all nerf bars. There should be a small gap between the bars and the body. We recommend putting a small notch in the body seam or mounting them just off the bottom of the frame. Notching is the better way to go as it gets the bars up as high as possible. An easy way to notch the body after installing the bars is to use a large screw driver and roll it between the body and the bar. This will bend a tiny part of the seam in and up to provide the needed clearance, the noise will go away once this is done.
 

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Definatley sounds like when the cab shifts and flexes the body seam is making slight contact with the new rock slider. If its bad now its way worst when the truck is driving and hitting bumps and stuff. <IMG SRC="smilies/cool.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by JackA:
<STRONG>All nerf bars will flex. </STRONG>
That's the truth! Last weekend I hit my passenger-side bar so hard I can't open the door anymore!! Of course, the door was already rubbing the bar, but now I need a new nerf on that side <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey thanks everyone with the help...
Yeah looks like 4Wheelers Supply screwed up. I'm not holding much hope on getting them to fix it though.

I'll try the "bend the body seam" fix, but I'm also going to install a 1" poly body lift, since I'm sure after 207,000 miles the rubber ones are toast.

Again thanks for the info.... Marc
<IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Hey Mark
You just need to stop parking it on it's side. If you put gussets on the legs of the nerf you will be less likly to push the nerfs up into the body. Sounds like body rub to me.

Randy
 

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It has gussets on it already. The legs didn't bend, the outer tube actually bent up to the point of blocking the door. I haven't tried to bend it back down yet, but I'm going to give it a shot. You got a long piece of thick-wall square-tube laying around I could use as a prybar???...... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by msahr:
<STRONG>I'm also going to install a 1" poly body lift, since I'm sure after 207,000 miles the rubber ones are toast.</STRONG>
A body lift doesn't replace the body mount bushings, it just puts spacers between them and the body. The poly body mount bushing kit will be a separate item.
 

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Originally posted by Bad Karma:
<STRONG>It has gussets on it already. The legs didn't bend, the outer tube actually bent up to the point of blocking the door. I haven't tried to bend it back down yet, but I'm going to give it a shot. You got a long piece of thick-wall square-tube laying around I could use as a prybar???...... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Ha Ha, I've been there. I get teased about carrying around my nerf bar adjusting tool. It's a short handle 10lb sledge. It works very well!
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Excellent idea!! Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try. BTW, when are you coming over here to do some wheelin' with us?? <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 
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