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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been re working my lights on MAd Dog and having some interesting challenges. I am dealing with 4 different relays for headlights,2 floods and 2 spots and fogs.and I was trying to install a battery disconect.I took the 2 spots and the 2 floods off the roof and mounted the 2 floods on the front and took off the fogs. THis ended up being a jumbled mess working off of a 2 post battery so I am changing to a 4 terminal battery.I'll try to posts some pics tomorrow. I also am installing LED strip lighting on the underside.

Does anybody have any nightmare electrical stories?
 

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are you sure you know what you are talking about? solinoid???? maybe relay?? also HID strip lighting???? possibly LED???

use a fuse block from Painless or a marine supply store. power the relays odd that and have one wire from battery to fuse block where you have a disconnect inline.
 

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I've been wrestiling with the battery disconnect choices for quite some time now. Working with 12VoltGuy, I've decided on a 275 continuous amp switch that I'll be running TWO of, one on the passenger and one on the driver side. There will be connection from battery positive to one switch, across to the other, and then to all the powered stuff. The idea is that either passenger OR driver (or a rescuer approaching from either side) can kill power.

The same, incidentally, will be true of activating the underhood extinguisher.

However, not EVERYTHING will be powered through the disconnect system.

The radio will have separate leads. So will the "lighter" plug (so that I can use my 12 volt drop light) and so will the various LEDs. I've got LED head lights, 360 driving lights, rock lights, and plans for an LED roof bar. That will all be fused separately and will not come off of the battery disconnect. It will run directly from the battery.

Basically, if I get into big doodoo at night and I have to kill battery power, I want to see, I want to be seen, I want to be able to fix my junk, and I want to be able to call my mother.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
are you sure you know what you are talking about? solinoid???? maybe relay?? also HID strip lighting???? possibly LED???

use a fuse block from Painless or a marine supply store. power the relays odd that and have one wire from battery to fuse block where you have a disconnect inline.
Your right I dont know what I'm talking about that is why I have most of my work done by some one else. But I am really trying to start doing things for myself.

Yes they are relays and LED's
I did get a fuse block from painless and had 4 wheel parts re do my mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been wrestiling with the battery disconnect choices for quite some time now. Working with 12VoltGuy, I've decided on a 275 continuous amp switch that I'll be running TWO of, one on the passenger and one on the driver side. There will be connection from battery positive to one switch, across to the other, and then to all the powered stuff. The idea is that either passenger OR driver (or a rescuer approaching from either side) can kill power.

The same, incidentally, will be true of activating the underhood extinguisher

Running it to both sides is a good idea, I think I will run one to the passenger side as well.

Underhood extinguisher? I would like to see that.
 

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I've seen 2 burnt buggies personally and I've read about this problem here several times.

Frankly, I'm a bit freaked out about it, but you have to remember that I'm professionally paranoid. Disaster avoidance is in my job description.

There are a few companies that make a fire extinguisher system that supplies "AFFF" type foam fire retardant through nozzles. You typically get two nozzles and a bunch of aluminum tubing so that you can route the nozzles however you like. There are both pull and push trigger systems. Typically there's just one activating handle but I want to do two, because my rig (like yours) is wide.

I'm probably going to go with Firecharger because they're relatively local (Prescott AZ), slightly less expensive, and user refillable. Also, they talk about how the pick-up tube inside the main tank is weighted to fall into the stored fire retardant. This is compatible with wierd mounting. The downside may be that it's not SFI rated so if it becomes a KOH race rule and I want to run my buggy... I'll be replacing it. I doubt that will happen. They require 2 2.5 pound hand held extinguishers and anything else is extra.

DJ Safety has an excellent product, which is touted by many to be the best. It probably is. You pay for it. They also make a 5 pound AFFF system so I'm pretty sure it's about the same size as the Firecharger I measured. I need to call them and verify that their part is compatible with horizontal mounting directly over the egine (off of my engine cage) and if so it's back in the running.

There's a Halon system made by Firefox which is available here at SDHQ, but I"m not sure Halon is the right choice for under my hood. I'm concerned that it will just blow away and the fire will instantly restart. I'm pretty sure I want foam.

I'm having trouble verifying links from here at work, so I'm not posting them. Just google those brand names and you'll find all kinds of stuff.

Also, read some of the threads recently in General 4x4 Discussion here to see what a bunch of knowledgeable buggy builders and competitive drivers are saying.

This is a recent, thought provoking one:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=889507

usmcdoc14's input has been particularly helpful to me. Search out other stuff besides whats in that thread. The YouTube vids he's posted are good.

Also, when Dustin Webster (RedBullJeep) posts up in a thread, I always pay attention. His posts typically come across as well thought out.
 
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