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Hey roverheads,
I am looking at getting a 95 discovery, have there been any reliability issues with this truck?
I am looking at getting a 95 discovery, have there been any reliability issues with this truck?
new rover
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Mine has 160K on it... I drive it nearly 100 miles every day...
Most of the mechanical failures (ok,maybe not most, at least one very big one...) have been pilot error and not a defect. Personally, I think '94 and '95 are the years to have. No major valve problems and they have a distributor (I readily admit to being a luddite). There are times though that I wish I had the enhanced OBD II.
Peace,
PAul
Most of the mechanical failures (ok,maybe not most, at least one very big one...) have been pilot error and not a defect. Personally, I think '94 and '95 are the years to have. No major valve problems and they have a distributor (I readily admit to being a luddite). There are times though that I wish I had the enhanced OBD II.
Peace,
PAul
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1,679 Posts
I have 125k on my 95, and the only problems that have been had are basic items that eventually wear out on any vehicle, but I have yet to have anything major go wrong.
I agree with the above. The '95 is a good year (I've only got 98K on mine).
Don't be surprised if you rupture the radiator's expansion tank. The black plastic tank has a tendency to split, lose pressure and coolant and lead to overheating. The newer replacement tank (it's white-ish in color) costs around $60 and is quick and easy to replace. (if the expansion tank is already a white one, the previous owner has already replaced it).
Don't be surprised if you rupture the radiator's expansion tank. The black plastic tank has a tendency to split, lose pressure and coolant and lead to overheating. The newer replacement tank (it's white-ish in color) costs around $60 and is quick and easy to replace. (if the expansion tank is already a white one, the previous owner has already replaced it).
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FWIW...I don't own a Disco....
But, I think that most of the reliability problems happen when you start to get your advice from unreliable sources.
Pick and choose who you believe, learn the things that can and will break, fix 'em before they happen and it'll be a fun little truck to have.
WHEN you decide to start wheeling it, you're in big trouble. Getting it ready to start doing some serious stuff is gonna take time, patience and a lot of $$$.
But, straight out of the box the Disco is pretty awesome off-road. Just be prepared for some big steps when it's time to upgrade.
My .02 euros (or is that Gyros???)
But, I think that most of the reliability problems happen when you start to get your advice from unreliable sources.
Pick and choose who you believe, learn the things that can and will break, fix 'em before they happen and it'll be a fun little truck to have.
WHEN you decide to start wheeling it, you're in big trouble. Getting it ready to start doing some serious stuff is gonna take time, patience and a lot of $$$.
But, straight out of the box the Disco is pretty awesome off-road. Just be prepared for some big steps when it's time to upgrade.
My .02 euros (or is that Gyros???)
What Mike means, is if you find yourself on the D-Web bulletin board (www.discoweb.org), avoid any advice from a guy named "Jason." He's a moron.Serious One said:
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Now, for ANOTHER point of view....
The 95's are known to be the poorest build quality NAS Disco "series 1's"
'96 was a little better (yes, mine is a 96) and 97 and up were all benefiting from BMW's quality clubbing of the line staff.
Whether the one you're looking at will reflect this is
96's also benefit from the Lucas GEMS system - take that however you want...
keith
:usa:
Of course, if said 95 has a lot of miles on it already, build quality issues have probably been previously delt with...then it's just a matter of disti vs GEMS and old style 3.9L vs new cross-bolted 4.0L - maybe a biggie.
The 95's are known to be the poorest build quality NAS Disco "series 1's"
'96 was a little better (yes, mine is a 96) and 97 and up were all benefiting from BMW's quality clubbing of the line staff.
Whether the one you're looking at will reflect this is
96's also benefit
from the Lucas GEMS system - take that however you want...keith
:usa:
Of course, if said 95 has a lot of miles on it already, build quality issues have probably been previously delt with...then it's just a matter of disti vs GEMS and old style 3.9L vs new cross-bolted 4.0L - maybe a biggie.
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can you give that to me in english keith?
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if you are tall the 96 and up has more leg room. That was the biggest issue for me. I picked up a 96 as a DD a few months ago. My wife has had a 96 for 4 or 5 years now.
95 is ok. The dizzy motors never seem to run right but you have the advantage of not usually require valve jobs like the 96 and up. 95 cloth is really ghetto, 96 cloth is nice but most are leather so no issue there. Neglect the trans at your own peril, nice piece but needs fresh fluid now and again, ditto for fuel filter, and coolant. Other than leaks they run pretty good. They just tend to be maintaince pigs.
Ron
95 is ok. The dizzy motors never seem to run right but you have the advantage of not usually require valve jobs like the 96 and up. 95 cloth is really ghetto, 96 cloth is nice but most are leather so no issue there. Neglect the trans at your own peril, nice piece but needs fresh fluid now and again, ditto for fuel filter, and coolant. Other than leaks they run pretty good. They just tend to be maintaince pigs.
Ron
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missingmy84toy said:
...sure !
97's are better then 96's, which are better then 95's,
which were better then (the few) 94's.
post 95's had breakerless ignition
i.e GEMS - (??something) Engine Management System
Rovers first shot at mandated OBDII
(On-Board Diagnostics V2.0)
They also had 4 litre cross bolted main bearing engines
The new design found in the 4.2
& 4.6 'new' RRvalve issues are cured by flooring it with regularity
BMW took over management of Land Rover in mid-1995
prior to that, there was major revolt on the line
cig butts in transfer cases, ect
due to the pending Hun
managementsome early 95's were real problems due to this
didn't know there were internal seating changes
beware of tranny issues as stated
also body mount rust at bulkhead
general body rot on door bottoms and bottom of tub
¿Es más fácil ahora entender?
Keith
:usa:
ok.... enough.... I had 185,000 miles on my 95' disco and I beat the crap out of it everyday for 3 years. The only thing I broke were u-joints, axle shafts, heater core, broke the windows out a few times. You honestly can't ask for anything more out of a rig. Anyway just thought I would throw in my 2 cents.
Rotting of the doors can be avoided by checking the drain holes at the bottom of the door, keeping them free of debris. Also wise to check for this before you buy.
Engines 3.9 v 4.0.
The 4.0 is actually the same displacement (bore and stroke) as the 3.9. Yes, the 4.0 is cross-bolted, but for an engine that does not put out much over 180 hp in that trim, cross-bolting really doesn't add much of an incentive. FWIW, both the 3.9 and 4.0 (and the 3.5, 4.2, and 4.6) are all variants of the Buick 215 built in the early 60's. The blocks produced by Rover have a different aluminum alloy (% of nickel, I think...) that make them stronger than the blocks produced in the '60's by Buick. Buick (or was it Olds...same block, same displacement) even turbocharged their 215 for over 180 hp from the factory, and hi-po guys have been pulling even more out of a "weaker" block than the 3.9. So, cross-bolting is moot unless you plan to stroke the engine and do some other fun modifications in the future.
Aside, from the cross-bolting, the 4.0 has larger mains which leaves more webbing between the respective journals on the crank (i.e. stronger crank)...again, a moot point unless you plan to pull more HP out of the anemic 4.0.
Finally, GEMS (Generic Engine Management System) vs. the distributer and 14CUX (CUX as in "sucks"). I prefer OBD-1 engine management (I also prefer the distributor), only because in some states, blowing an OBD-II code, whether your vehicle meets smog or not, can cause you to fail emissions/inspection. The GEMS is nice as it does incorporate a knock sensor to retard the timing to reduce the occurance of detonation...probably more of a benefit if you plan of continually overheating your engine...but since both the 3.9 and 4.0 are relatively low state-of-tune engines, detonation is not really a problem, and the 4.0 does not use it to add any power.
The 4.0 does have slightly different cam timing events (same intake/exhaust durations between the 3.9 and 4.0, but the lobe centers are different) which contributes to the added 10+ hp between the 2 engines.
Other stuff to look for: sunroofs (have been known to be problematic and expensive), check for rust around the alpine windows, check for rust at rear passenger doors around the top of the fender (where the pillar meets the fender).
Engines 3.9 v 4.0.
The 4.0 is actually the same displacement (bore and stroke) as the 3.9. Yes, the 4.0 is cross-bolted, but for an engine that does not put out much over 180 hp in that trim, cross-bolting really doesn't add much of an incentive. FWIW, both the 3.9 and 4.0 (and the 3.5, 4.2, and 4.6) are all variants of the Buick 215 built in the early 60's. The blocks produced by Rover have a different aluminum alloy (% of nickel, I think...) that make them stronger than the blocks produced in the '60's by Buick. Buick (or was it Olds...same block, same displacement) even turbocharged their 215 for over 180 hp from the factory, and hi-po guys have been pulling even more out of a "weaker" block than the 3.9. So, cross-bolting is moot unless you plan to stroke the engine and do some other fun modifications in the future.
Aside, from the cross-bolting, the 4.0 has larger mains which leaves more webbing between the respective journals on the crank (i.e. stronger crank)...again, a moot point unless you plan to pull more HP out of the anemic 4.0.
Finally, GEMS (Generic Engine Management System) vs. the distributer and 14CUX (CUX as in "sucks"). I prefer OBD-1 engine management (I also prefer the distributor), only because in some states, blowing an OBD-II code, whether your vehicle meets smog or not, can cause you to fail emissions/inspection. The GEMS is nice as it does incorporate a knock sensor to retard the timing to reduce the occurance of detonation...probably more of a benefit if you plan of continually overheating your engine...but since both the 3.9 and 4.0 are relatively low state-of-tune engines, detonation is not really a problem, and the 4.0 does not use it to add any power.
The 4.0 does have slightly different cam timing events (same intake/exhaust durations between the 3.9 and 4.0, but the lobe centers are different) which contributes to the added 10+ hp between the 2 engines.
Other stuff to look for: sunroofs (have been known to be problematic and expensive), check for rust around the alpine windows, check for rust at rear passenger doors around the top of the fender (where the pillar meets the fender).
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641 Posts
Update: Did a preliminary inspection of vehicle earlier today. It was dark so I didn't check for rust issues. It is gold w/tan leather interior (drivers seat is somewhat worn). Dual moon roofs, AT, 3.9L, good maintenance records; it has 91,000 miles and just had the 90,000mi service (still has black expansion tank) and has five new tires. Owner said she has to sell it due to a move to San Diego in early Feb. She is asking 8,000 , but I am going to offer her 6100, and I think she might take it. Sound like a good deal? This will be the wife's car and our primary transportation, untill I am done with the fj40 (probably never). Thanks
, but I am going to offer her 6100, and I think she might take it. Sound like a good deal? This will be the wife's car and our primary transportation, untill I am done with the fj40 (probably never). Thanks
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Shot you a message.
Not sure you want to spend more but I've got a '99 D1 for sale in Seattle . Great truck, I just need to drop a payment with a second kid on the way. White/tan, brush bar, light guards, HELLA's on front, no sunroofs, 61K, current buyers inspection done and LR serviced.
$15,000 firm.
Todd
Not sure you want to spend more but I've got a '99 D1 for sale in Seattle
. Great truck, I just need to drop a payment with a second kid on the way. White/tan, brush bar, light guards, HELLA's on front, no sunroofs, 61K, current buyers inspection done and LR serviced.$15,000 firm.
Todd
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641 Posts
A new rig has been added to the stable! yeee haw! Now I have another board to frequent (I am not sure if that's a good or bad thing) Cheers. Jason
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641 Posts
yep, 6100. She's moving to san diego tomarrow! It just had the 90000 mi service and 5 new tires also. I'm loving it.
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