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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey yall,

So im new to the pirate forum. Been lurkin on here for a while as well as other nissan/toyota forums. Im am planning on "trying" to SAS (SOA) my junk once I get my whole setup planned out. Just another broke as college kid so it will be slower than hell and one some more of a tight/low budget. I have been searching my ass of for the past few months so I think im headin in the right direction, but im still looking for a little clarification.

Right now im dealing with a 04 frontier desert runner (not by choice). I am utimately wanting to run 37's, but initially will probably start with 35's. I plan on using a D44 (either ford HP 76-77 if i can get a hold of it first, or a simpler waggy axle). I know that 37's are pushing the limits of the 44 but i know that i will not use a d60 to its potential and ide like to think im easy on the skinny pedal. I also want to put a 9in in the rear. I feel that these are 2 fairly easy axles to maintain and source parts for. I dont do hardcore rocks being that im in NC, so mainly just going to be using it for trails and whatever else I can find. I am not worried about upgrading the axle right off the bat, I just want to get it under the truck and rolling first. I will still pick up better parts as I go along but just keeping that in mind.

So with the d44 I "want" to get: front disc brake conversion, high steer, chromoly shafts to get the better u-joints (once stock shafts break or are not usable) and 5.39 gears for the 37's, warn premium hubs, possibly rotate the C's?, some sort of locker (eventually ARB selectable), and open knuckles. ALso curious if i can change bolt pattern to 6x5.5 which is what my truck is already. I know that there is other stuff that im forgetting right now but these are the major items I can think of right now.

For the 9": form what i understand they are pretty good stock so I would just gear it and lock it. Havent been able to find much on my application with this axle, been readin info mainly off of yotas. I would also figure i need to upgrade those shafts as well. (Ha i looked in the the HI9....a far off dream to say the least)

Now coming form 4x2,I know that i will need a new transfercase and steering box. Recomendations? I have AT trans. 3.3 engine. Any other parts i need to make this a complete 4x4?

and with the 35's or 37's, what type of springs will i need, front and rear? Im looking to keep this as low as possible, not afraid to trim the fenders a little or move the axle forward a LITTLE, but still want them to look like fenders in the end. Tubed bed in ultimate picture. I also planned on running a custom front tube bumper with winch at a later date. tube rear bumper as well.

Holy shit that was a lot longer than expected...Im sorry for all the questions and if my information is incorrect, just looking for some more educated opinions and info. I have been reading real close in Penski's thread, essentially what im aiming for. Let me know if yall need anymore information Im ready for the newb flamin :flipoff2:, but hey, I got to start somewhere. Thanks again
 

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If you use an early 80's waggy d44, the bolt pattern is already 6 on 5.5, so no need to change it. Also, this axle housing with good parts in it should be plenty strong for 37in tires. Your build sounds like a lot like my frontier, so check it out on this forum. (2004 D22 build)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response, I have been reading through your thread for quite a while too. I was reading and i figured that if I could get the hp d44 then do it cause its better than the waggy. But i guess for my purposes a waggy will hold up just fine. Did you rotate your C's yet to get the driveline angle? But will the waggy d44 and the 9in still be the same width? Thanks for your help.
 

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I SAS'd a WD21, so it may be a bit different, but close enough, so here is my $0.02

If I were to do mine again, I would go with a HP D44 and a 9" out of a late 70's ford pickup. Because they are a bit wider, I would just run rims with more backspacing. You could probably get a set of these axles for as much as a waggy axle will cost you because the waggy axles are slightly harder to find and more sought after by the jeepers. If you can, save your money and buy the axles already built up. There is always people selling their built 44's when they upgrade to D60's at a loss.

As for the springs, it all depends. I'm switching over to toyota rear mains up front, as it will move my axle ahead and hopefully I'll be able to run 35-36's on about 3" of lift. Most guys I see SAS'n Nissans go a lot taller than I personally like, and the Nissan frame design lends itself well to building a low rig.

As for the steering box, go with a Toyota box, preferably a Fj60 box, as they are forward swing. They are common and used a lot more than the nissan boxes. The forward swing will allow you to move your axle as far forward as your would like.

For the trans, keep the auto, if I could, I would start with an auto rig as they crawl so much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, well ive been seeing waggy axles a lot more than the 76-77 model f150 axle that i need. I havent seen hardly any of the HP axles for sell in the correct year model. I dont know all about the f250 axles, is there one that will work for us? BUt i definatly understand what you are saying bout buying already built up, thats what i prefer. So do i need to get the axles out of the SAME truck or can they be from different trucks? I also want to run minimal lift as well for the tires, Im not a fan of the huge lifts or being in tippy situations. So ide like to run minimal lift and minimal cutting to run 37's. HOw far forward would you recommend moving the front axle, if any at all? THanks for all the info, i appreciate it greatly.
 

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i ran the waggy axle and did not like the width
now i have the ford hp up front and 9" in the back on 37's

im running pro-comp 33311 toyota rear leafs up front , i did re-drill the center pin though

you can run waggy outers (brakes etc ) to get the 6x5.5 and then run ford inner axle shafts and hp housing
as far as different axles off different truck
the hp44 i have is out of a 74 f100 and the 9" is out of an 85 150
the 44 has 5.38 gears, arb locker , yukon ford inners and yukon waggy outers
9" has strange S case, daytona pinion support ,5.42's , 35 spline grizzly locker , dutchman 35 spline custom axles with 6x5.5 bolt pattern , ford 8.8 disk brakes will re-drilled rotors
 

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Unfortunetly, for nissans, there is no magic number. There hasnt been enough SAS'd nissans out there to be. You are going to have experiment a bit. But, I would have to say that toyota rear mains up front is a good start.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So did the f-100 axle have the cast wedges or welded? I know that that was one of the big issues with trying to get the 76-77 f150 housing because they have welded wedges instead of cast. and it doesnt really matter what year the 9in comes out of, they were all practically the same right? Penski, if you dont mind me askin, how much total money do you have wrapped up in your suspension right now? Not including the original waggy setup, just your new 9in and hpd44. axles, driveshafts, leaves, and other odds and ins. THanks for the help.
 

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I ran a narrowed 79 high pinion ford axle. You can narrow the long side to accept a common waggy shaft which makes parts cheaper until you get chromos if you ever need them. Parts to adapt the outers to six lug are cheap (at least around utah) and you can use chev or waggy. Note Ford uses different spindles. I had my dana 60 narrowed last year and it cost around 300 and included shortening/splining the shaft plus a spare.

If you run a rear ford 9 then it will probably match the front so no changes there. But i ran a rear ford 9 with factory disk brakes on my YJ that had a 5x5 pattern. No all Ford 9s are not the same. On my frontier i ran a 95 isuzu dana 44 with factory disk brakes; had 30? spline axles and was a good fit; a bit narrow in the rear but perfectly ok.

I'd stay away from axles with wedges unless you plan to hang coils under there.

I've found 5.38s to be a perfect fit on 35s for power and mileage considering the little V6. Personally i'm not a fan of the Ford 9 as i've seen too many blow up but if you're not hard core it may suit you well.

You say you're on a tight budget so i'll warn you now there's no way this will be a cheap swap even if you do it all yourself. You'll need to source a transfer case and you'll need some fairly advanced fabricating and welding skills to pull this off. You may be better off starting with a 4x4.
 

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The 78-79 axles have the casted on wedges and are the least desirabe axles. Anything earlier than that is welded on which can be easily removed. 76 and 77 are the only 2 years with factory disc brakes so these are the most popular, HOWEVER if you are upgrading the knuckles on the axle anyways you can go all the way back to 73 as the tubes were the same they just had drum brakes. Might give you alot bigger search range
 

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So did the f-100 axle have the cast wedges or welded? I know that that was one of the big issues with trying to get the 76-77 f150 housing because they have welded wedges instead of cast. and it doesnt really matter what year the 9in comes out of, they were all practically the same right? Penski, if you dont mind me askin, how much total money do you have wrapped up in your suspension right now? Not including the original waggy setup, just your new 9in and hpd44. axles, driveshafts, leaves, and other odds and ins. THanks for the help.
what HO shorts said , the 74 i picked up had welded on wedges which came off pretty easy

the springs are $230 (pair) new from summit
around $150 for spring hangers , spring perches , shackles
$80 for 5/8" u-bolts , nuts and washers
$50 for u-bolt plates
front axle $150 for the housing
$245 for ford inners and $160 for outers (chromo)
i cant remember the price on the yukon gears for the front
$760 for the ARB up front
$100 for warn premium hubs
$200 for new rotors/spindle hub/wheel studs
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...knrq?filterByKeyWord=rotors&fromString=search
$30 for pads
$60 for calipers
so total around = $2415

of course there are ways to go cheaper but thats what ive done
 

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Discussion Starter #13
haha, yea right. you are setup for a little bit more hardcore than the income allows right now. 2k for just one axle is a little steep though i will keep it in mind. ha. Ho Shorts, thanks for the info. That will certainly hope. Yes it would be easier to start off with a 4x4...but who said this was gonna be easy. I still have quite a ways to go to start savin money for this project so it will be no time soon, just trying to get my facts straight now before i start the build. THanks all for the info.
 

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haha, yea right. you are setup for a little bit more hardcore than the income allows right now. 2k for just one axle is a little steep though i will keep it in mind. ha. Ho Shorts, thanks for the info. That will certainly hope. Yes it would be easier to start off with a 4x4...but who said this was gonna be easy. I still have quite a ways to go to start savin money for this project so it will be no time soon, just trying to get my facts straight now before i start the build. THanks all for the info.
With the way you stated you intend to build a dana 44 in your OP, you will be into it for well over $2000. Buying a built axle is almost always less expensive than building. I have about $3000 into my front if you add in labor. Not sure if you realize the costs, but here is a quick and dirty run down:

housing $150
stock knuckles $150 + machining for high steer
reid knuckles $500
ARB locker $750
gears $300 + install
chromo shafts $700
warn premium hubs $100
high steer arms $125
bearings, seals, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers $600

What are the shackles for?

My advice: unless mommy and daddy pay for college and still give you an allowance - wait until you are done ith school and have a real job OR if mommy and daddy pay for school - got get a PT job to pay for your new found hobby. Crack cocaine is cheaper hobby BTW, may consider that instead.
 

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Does anyone have a recommended shackle length?
if your running the shackle hanger thru the frame 4-6" center hole to center hole 6-8" overall shackles are good length , if you plan on mounting the shackle below the frame you'll want a much smaller shackle otherwise you will be stupid tall


also if you are serious about doin all this plan for atleast 5k and have the money in hand or all the parts you need on hand before you do anything
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im not starting on this any time soon, I just wanted to get all the information straight. Im not starting until I have all the parts with money in the bank to spare, besides i still have to pay the truck off before ill start cutting. Mommy and daddy are not a factor in this as I pay for my own college, financial aid and loans with deferred payment till graduation, and I have 2 jobs, with no allowance thank you. I know this will be expensive, 2k is too much to spend all at once right now, not in the long run. Thanks for the help.
 

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best thing to do is get your axle set up and then go from there
you can either buy junkyard axles or since you have time spend alot of time in the for sale section on here

its alot cheaper to buy a built axle than to build one but if your gonna be wrenching on the truck yourself you learn alot more building one
 

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You dont need a new steering box. You already have a 4wd box in the Desert Runner. They accept after market yota size pitman arms for a little more length.
 
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