Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I tried search and have read many posts but no exact answers but you guy's are great so here goes.I reacently got a 1994 K-3500 pick-up first problem is the alternator reads 14 volts on the gauge when in fast idle(choke mode)but as the truck warms up it slowly goes to about 11 volts or so when stereo and heater and lights are on the gauge shows down to almost 10 volts.I had the alternator tested at shi**y autozone and the person doing the test would'nt let me read the machine for amps and volts but said it was o.k.so whats up.Prob # 2 I don't know how to explain this to well but here goes.The truck runs alright but when idleing it has a slight exhust pop every few seconds and doesn't have the power it should(sometimes usually in choke mode it doesn't do it and the truck has a whole lot more power)and it also has very quiet poping through the mid range rpms(and no power)but above about 3000 rpms it hauls a**.So here is the question do you think it's power related because of the alt.do you think it's a sensor of some sort or maybe even the injectors or possibly some wiring.The truck has an alarm and a delphi alt.and it looks like only one wire from the alt to the starter from prolly 10 gauge but I didn't look to close to the bottom of the alt. so maybe 2 more wires are down there. Thanks all you'r great!
P.S. flame all you want but Ive read lots just always owned carbs. so I am anxious 4 help FLAME ON. :mad3:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
1. If your checking your voltage with a proper ampmeter ( and not just the dash gauge) and those are the readings you get, then my first thought would be the "regulator".

2. Newer trucks come with so many sensors and sending units and 1 proplem can have so many differant causes, I have learned from experiance that it is probly best to take it and have it put on a diagnostic machine right away. Trying to solve the problem through the old system of starting with the most likely then working your way through the list can get expensive fast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Sounds like a faulty ground, maybe loose connection, or more than likely, a vacuum leak. I'd give it a good visual, then start it and feel around every vacuum line for any cracks or leaks. Just a thought before you pay for a diagnostics test. Be absolutely certain there's no corrosion on your battery. Check connections, as well as connection on alt.
I appologize if I am playing the role of Capt'n Obvious, it's just that many times people tend to look past the little/easy things and automatically assume bigger problems.
Oh, yeah. I'm sure you already know this, but with the motor running, pull the hot lead (+) off the battery. Let it run for a while and observe it's behavior. If the motor dies, or "lugs" down and gets weak, you have a bad alt. If it runs the same, move on down the line. Troubleshooting can be a bitch, but I love it. Ring out the elect. system separate from the vacuum, It'll make things easier on you. Be patient, and follow the system all the way through (whichever system you're dealing with that's relevant to the problem) and eventually, you'll come across the problem. Happy hunting. If none of this brings results, and a diag. test comes up clean, I'll let you in on a secret for the computer for 3 easy payments of $49.95...no, not really...I'd give it to you for fifty bucks. :flipoff2: This secret has actually solved weird/quirkey problems, which have had the dealerships scratching their heads, in all makes with a computer. This may simply be a scrambled signal. Not really trying to make money here, this is just a trick I was sworn not to share, but money talks and it seems to get me to talk. :D
Seriously, if nothing works, and you're running your head into the wall, let me know. This just might solve it.
-Joe
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top