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Thats enough coach.
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Discussion Starter #1
Okay...first things first...I have very little fab skills. I do not possess natural building skills, but have the ability to figure stuff out with the aid of write-ups or other guidance...that said....I am learning as a I go.

Anyway, shortly after buying the trailer, I picked up a DeWalt Chop Saw and Dewalt Hand Grinder on Sale. I also found a good deal on Craigslist on a Hobart 140(110v) Welder.

So for the past several months I have been practicing my welding skills and finally decided to take the fabrication plunge.

Here is what I started out with on my trailer(From Julyish this past summer)......







It is a basic 16ft that I picked up off Craigs List....It will haul this.....



My 2004 TJ I have slowly been building into a solid trail rig.

Well shortly after buying the trailer, I ripped off the plywood, the rusted box on front, completely rewired it, replaced most of the lights and laid down some new paint.

Today....I ripped off the fenders.





My goal is to fab up some fenders like this

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=882867

So....after some research and alot of questions, I acquired 24ft of 1.5x1.5x.125 angle iron and started laying it out.



and



The top part of the fenders will be 54in long and 11in from the trailer floor. I think the front and back drive up length will be around 16 in(Not sure of the angle yet). I am planning on skinning the top with .125 plate.

Please be kind as I move forward.
 

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Thats enough coach.
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Not bad so far. Your Jeep looks able to get from home to the trail with no issues so why the trailer?
Very very simple answer....Piece of mind. I've limped home to many times.

Made alot of progress today, just didnt get many pictures. :shaking: I've worked thru most of my problems. Most of my angle iron has been cut. The drivers side frame has been welded up for install.

It looks like the drive up angles will be 35 degrees. Thoughts from anyone?
 

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Looking good but start scouring classifieds and ebay now if you end up wanting brakes on that second axle...drums for the fayette 4x9.4 wheels aren't the easiest to come by. I tried w/ no avail to get a set through dexter and ended up w/ a used set. Good news is that it's easy enough just to swap w/ 'normal' 5x4.5 hubs if you end up wanting to drop the cash.
 

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Thats enough coach.
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Discussion Starter #6
Looking good but start scouring classifieds and ebay now if you end up wanting brakes on that second axle...drums for the fayette 4x9.4 wheels aren't the easiest to come by. I tried w/ no avail to get a set through dexter and ended up w/ a used set. Good news is that it's easy enough just to swap w/ 'normal' 5x4.5 hubs if you end up wanting to drop the cash.
And this is why I started this thread......

Please tell me more about the hub swap. Do you have build web-site? Part numbers?

The rear drums are wired for breaks.....I just have not investigated it because....

1. I didnt know what I was doing/looking for...or how to test.
2. There is ALOT of rust on the drums and I dont have a plan for a possible replacement.
3. It works....Dont wake a sleeping dog applies. :flipoff2:
4. There were other pressing issues with both the trailer and my Jeep(Front D44 Swap :D )

I bought the trailer on a budget and know what a brand new one costs with every bell and whistle I could ever want.....I want something safe..but I do not want to divert too many funds away from my Jeep.
 

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Thats enough coach.
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Discussion Starter #7
Well here are the few pictures I did get taken yesterday......

All welded up.



I wont win a pretty weld contest...but I did get good penetration.





I really tried to slow this weld down to really burn into the frame. Its not pretty but it is solid.



Next time I weld into the frame, I'm going to break out the blow-torch and pre-heat it so I get even better penetration.



Next step will be fabbing up the front and back fenders. Gonna take 24in of angle and weld it in so its at approx 35 degrees. Didnt get a pic of the mock up, but that looked the best and provided about 4inches of frame to weld it into for more stability. Basically turning the fender frame into a truss as well.
 

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2019 Ram 1500
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Looks like your on the right track so far. How much room will be between the fenders?
 

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Thats enough coach.
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Looks like your on the right track so far. How much room will be between the fenders?
I used the old fender dimensions for height. So they are 11 inches off the deck. Pretty sure at ride height I have 4.5 inches of clearance. I didnt use angle iron for the crossmembers...just plain flat stock...so I gain 1.5 inches in the center.
 

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Thats enough coach.
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Discussion Starter #10
Well Mother Nature is has finally hit Central Illinois. Gonna move the trailer and my tools to my dads car lot bay tomorrow to finish this up.

Murpheys law has struck me hard.....I found a rig for my daughter and need my trailer now. :shaking:
 

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And this is why I started this thread......

Please tell me more about the hub swap. Do you have build web-site? Part numbers?

The rear drums are wired for breaks.....I just have not investigated it because....

1. I didnt know what I was doing/looking for...or how to test.
2. There is ALOT of rust on the drums and I dont have a plan for a possible replacement.
3. It works....Dont wake a sleeping dog applies. :flipoff2:
4. There were other pressing issues with both the trailer and my Jeep(Front D44 Swap :D )

I bought the trailer on a budget and know what a brand new one costs with every bell and whistle I could ever want.....I want something safe..but I do not want to divert too many funds away from my Jeep.
Not much needed...if you just wanna convert what you have (and the existing shoes/magnets/etc are in serviceable condition) you'd just need 2 of these, 2 of these, and a set of 5x4.5 wheels. Note that this ass-ume's you're axles are using 1 3/8 & 1 1/16 bearings like mine is. If you wanted to add brakes to the second axle you'd just need the loaded backing plate assemblies for the 10" brakes and substitute 2 more drums for the regular hubs.

--Ian
 

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Thats enough coach.
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Not much needed...if you just wanna convert what you have (and the existing shoes/magnets/etc are in serviceable condition) you'd just need 2 of these, 2 of these, and a set of 5x4.5 wheels. Note that this ass-ume's you're axles are using 1 3/8 & 1 1/16 bearings like mine is. If you wanted to add brakes to the second axle you'd just need the loaded backing plate assemblies for the 10" brakes and substitute 2 more drums for the regular hubs.

--Ian
Thanks......That is some great information. Will tear into the axles this spring when the weather breaks.
 

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Neat. When I re-deck mine in the Spring, I'm going to go to a set of drive-overs too.
 

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Thats enough coach.
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Got some work done today....Moved everything down to my dads extra bay at his car lot....THANKS DAD......

Please remember the Build Name. I am a Newb at this and am moving very slowly. I'm taking to heart measure 3 or 4 times, then check everything, then check re-measure, then cut.

Anyway here are some pics. Mocking up the rear passenger fender.







All Welded up....My welds will still not win any awards.





And because I'm a dumbass :mad3: and ran out of angle-iron, I had to start on the other side....which I already had built.



My bad welds are getting better. My good welds are getting prettier. I'm still learning alot......

Hopefully I will have everything ready to skin tomorrow. Not sure of my plan there....:shaking:
 

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1962 YellowSubmarine
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with that welder should not need to pre-heat anything. turn the wire speed down and the heat up to get better penetration. you won't get that "perfect bacon sizzling" sound without shielding gas, so if you're using flux core you should be going by watching the puddle melt, and with the thicker metal you should be spending a tiny bit more time on the frame than the angle iron.

Clean the mill scale off the angle with a flap wheel (or a grinding wheel if thats all you have) and get it down to nice shiny raw metal and you will notice a much better puddle and a cleaner weld with less splatter and contaminants.

You also don't want hte metal flat butted up, you want like a 1/16-1/8" gap so the wire has someplace to melt instead of laying on top.

EDIT - also, it wouldn't hurt to run the tops of the flat stock where it meets the angle for extra strength. It will also keep water and grime out.


:usa:
 

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IM glad I am not the only okay fabber here. looks good and feels good not to have to pay anyone to do these things doesnt it. Im learning to fab because im poor. Carry on
 

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Thats enough coach.
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
with that welder should not need to pre-heat anything. turn the wire speed down and the heat up to get better penetration. you won't get that "perfect bacon sizzling" sound without shielding gas, so if you're using flux core you should be going by watching the puddle melt, and with the thicker metal you should be spending a tiny bit more time on the frame than the angle iron.

Clean the mill scale off the angle with a flap wheel (or a grinding wheel if thats all you have) and get it down to nice shiny raw metal and you will notice a much better puddle and a cleaner weld with less splatter and contaminants.

You also don't want hte metal flat butted up, you want like a 1/16-1/8" gap so the wire has someplace to melt instead of laying on top.

EDIT - also, it wouldn't hurt to run the tops of the flat stock where it meets the angle for extra strength. It will also keep water and grime out.


:usa:
Thanks Dude.....I'm using pure Co2 and .30 wire. And....Yes I have a angle grinder with different grades of flap wheels. I have noticed a difference based on how well I clean the metal.

So for better penetration you slow down the wire speed? Based on YouTube Video's I know to spend more time on the thicker metal as I weld. Todays welds were alot better in that regard.

My plan for the top was to cut some .125 flat and then weld it as a inlay....Now not so sure. Thinking about adding a piece of flat down the middle and skinning with 20 gauge.

In any case, all advice is considered.....after all I'm a Newb and learning. :flipoff2:
 

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Thats enough coach.
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
IM glad I am not the only okay fabber here. looks good and feels good not to have to pay anyone to do these things doesnt it. Im learning to fab because im poor. Carry on
I'm learning to fab because I like to learn. And yes it does feel good to not pay for this......:)
 
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