Thats enough coach.
Next time if you want the pieces to line up better and not have that 1/4" hang down.
^ that is what its all about ...There are alot of mistakes, alot of things I would change, but in the end I have learned so much and something you make is ALWAYS more satisfying than buying it.
Thank YouLooks good man!
Thank You...I have a couple of friends that can roll out of bed and decide to build something new and just do it. I know its experience, but for a hack like me I look on in awe.^ that is what its all about ...
born master fab/welders are rare .... the rest of us (try to) get there by endless practice
looks great ! :smokin:
Not sure what booger welded means...and I dont think I want to know. :grinpimp:looks pretty good for a first fab project.
I have booger welded much worse looking things.
Plan to skin the inside of the fender? Keeps the road nasty off your decking, and if you ever haul anything nice.
booger welds:Thank You
Thank You...I have a couple of friends that can roll out of bed and decide to build something new and just do it. I know its experience, but for a hack like me I look on in awe.
Not sure what booger welded means...and I dont think I want to know. :grinpimp:
As for inner skins....maybe eventually. As of right now it just will haul my Jeep.....
For a visual example, refer to your early work.booger welds:
when you suck so bad at welding your beads look like you just flung boogers at two pieces of metal and somehow they stuck.
Now THAT is some great advice. Please expand on the duty cycle part. Outside the welder being hot, what else do I look/listen for?One more that applies to smaller welders (and makes the last advise suck...) Learn when your welder is hot, and give it time to cool down. That welder may only have a 10% or 20% duty cycle. It, and you, will weld like crap one it's overheated.
Can only weld for 1 out of 10 mins? Seriously......that really sucks.Duty cycle is the amount of time per time you can be in full use of the machine. 10 minutes is probably a safe ' per time'. So if you have a 10% duty cycle you can only be on the trigger for 1 minuet total out of 10. If you are welding at a lower than full power arting you can expand this some. You will notice the sound of the weld changing, and the performance will get crappy. At this point kick back and have a beer.
For the feed issues, try to increase the tension on the drive rollers.
Now THAT is some great advice. Please expand on the duty cycle part. Outside the welder being hot, what else do I look/listen for?
I've figured out.....
- what a bad ground acts like
- when the nozzle needs cleaned from splatter
- what it feels like to have a good bead going from a rhythm perspective
What I cant get right yet.....
- There are some welds that I can not get straight for long periods.
Make sure your mask is clean and the correct shade. You probably want a 9, a this is a low power welding operation. If you can't see, you can't weld. Try marking the weld joint with a white chalk before you strike an arc. This will help you see where your going.
- I cant quite get my stick out/nozzle quite right. Meaning....the wire tends to get clogged inside my nozzle from time to time. This seems to happen more often on when welding horizontally. Like when I was welding my flat iron to my angle iron.
Maybe try some nozzle dip. It will help with keeping it cleaner, and cleaning.
Always tighten your contact tip with a wrench our pliers. Finger right will cause weld issues.
- There are times, when I know its not welding "Just right" but cant stop and reassess.
Drive roller pressure and the position of the whip/torch can really screw.with weld quality. The straighter you can keep the whip the happier it will be.
- Still learning the best viewing angle to insure straight solid welds.
In any case, I am happy with my results so far. Its a process and I have never been afraid to learn and try things.
Thanks for all the input so far.