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Hello everyone I have a decent deal on "one tons" but I'm wondering if you guys would know if this set up would work. The front axle is a Dana 60 with 4.10 gears and a sterling 10.5 in the rear. I'm quite new to this kind of swap but im just doing a lil research some how some way. (There's not much for a aftermarket for these things)
 

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Sterling 10.5 is a massive beast with not a lot of options...

front axle ok.. but rear i'd look for a D60 at a junk yard... they are pretty cheep
 

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Sterling 10.5 is a fine axle. Better than a Dana 60 for the rear, stronger for sure.

What do you mean by 'not a lot of options'??? There is plenty of aftermarket support - gears, traction devices, axles, brackets, trusses, etc;

Oh yeah, a lot more clearance than a non-shaved 14 bolt.
 

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The 720 I'm building has a sterling rear. 5.13s welded.
The front axle I'm still building my housing just showed up a couple days ago. I'm using the inner C and outer from an 09 f350 d60 on a currie f9 housing front inner shafts will be currie once I figure out the lengths they need to be.
 

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If you're going to go Sterling 10.5 I would just get a 14 bolt for $150 a call it good.

I have a 92 Ford D-60 in the front of my Pathy and it went in fine(ish) hope you have a lot of fabricating skills. The 08 D-60 is much the same except that it is a balljoint 60 instead of a Kingpin.

If you are running anything over a 39" tire you will hate the 4.10's. Im on 42"s and just put in some 5.38's because my rig was so gutless with the low 4.10s.



Feel free to ask if you have more questions, theres not a ton of Nissans on Tons around so Im happy to help if you have any questions.

Heres a vid of mine from a few weeks ago

 

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The problem with using a 14 Bolt with an '08 D60 is the bolt pattern. He's stuck using the metric 8 on 170mm bolt pattern on the front unless he spends a bit of extra coin to change it. I would just run the Sterling if it was mine.
 

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You're gonna need a lot deeper gears if you want to turn anything larger than 31" rubber with a stock V6.

5.13 is OK up to 35" rubber...not great, but OK.
 

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Good call. That Super 60 and the Sterling 10.5 only go to 5.38:1. That's going to be tough on an old Hardbody V6. If you keep the tires reasonable (maybe 37s) and do some power mods (or swap out for a VG33E) then you will be able to keep her rolling. Of course, if you are keeping the tires smaller you can probably get away with lighter axles which help negate some of the weight issue that will slow the truck down.
 

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I'll be running an 06 SD front axle in my 02 Xterra within the next few months, the hardest part about running them is going to be the differential being moved so far over to the side, also don't worry about the UB or BJ's on these axles, they're a lot bigger and stronger than the older 60 kingpins or BJ's, I'll even take pictures of the difference of size if you want. Also, the SD60 can be drilled to 8x6.5 but will require some machinist friends or a very steady hand and lots of measuring, I'll be going that route since the only way this swap will happen for me is if I keep my same rims, and I already have a 14 bolt rear.
 

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I'll be running an 06 SD front axle in my 02 Xterra within the next few months, the hardest part about running them is going to be the differential being moved so far over to the side, also don't worry about the UB or BJ's on these axles, they're a lot bigger and stronger than the older 60 kingpins or BJ's, I'll even take pictures of the difference of size if you want. Also, the SD60 can be drilled to 8x6.5 but will require some machinist friends or a very steady hand and lots of measuring, I'll be going that route since the only way this swap will happen for me is if I keep my same rims, and I already have a 14 bolt rear.
You will probably end up having to notch the frame a little bit on the drivers side right where it bends because your front driveshaft will probably hit when flexed out.
Doesnt need a huge notch but I had to do it on mine, I also plated the outside of the frame there and used 3/16" thick plate on the notch so its still nice and strong.

And yes the BJ 60s have the damn metric bolt pattern, but like you said its not a huge deal, if you're capable enough to install 1-ton axles on your Nissan you are capable enough to figure out your stud spacing.

5.38's are nice and low (a hell of a lot better than my stock 4.10's) but I also have the NWF doubler kit running through my d300 so I've got lots of gears to choose from.
 

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You will probably end up having to notch the frame a little bit on the drivers side right where it bends because your front driveshaft will probably hit when flexed out.
Doesnt need a huge notch but I had to do it on mine, I also plated the outside of the frame there and used 3/16" thick plate on the notch so its still nice and strong.

5.38's are nice and low (a hell of a lot better than my stock 4.10's) but I also have the NWF doubler kit running through my d300 so I've got lots of gears to choose from.
While not exactly "economical" that is one of the reasons why I re-centered my housing when I did mine with an '85 HP 60. No clearance issues whatsoever and my driveline runs dead straight.

You are running 4.10s!?!? You certainly do not drive that on the street then.
 

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I've got a 79 D60 front and 10.25 rear going under my Xterra at the moment. I can appreciate the packaging issues that the short driver's side tube would cause, not just with link/shock mounts but also factory frame clearance.

For those of you planning to run newer Ford full-width axles (diff offset +3") and the factory frame: what kind of up-travel numbers are you shooting for and what is the ballpark frame measurement at ride height. Seems it would be damn tricky to get any decent up-travel numbers while keeping the rig low...

I chopped the frame at the firewall and rebuilt it with 2x4x3/16 tucked nicely up out of the way and I'm still not going to get as much uptravel as I was hoping for without raising ride height (21" to frame on 37s with a hair over 5" uptravel.

I'll throw in a good word for the Sterling axles as well. They are beef (easily comparable to D70/14 bolt), have D80 sized wheel bearings and better clearance than a stock D60. And they are a dime a dozen, at least around here. Easy to put discs on the older 10.25s as well.
 

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If you can't keep the rig fairly low with normal axles I will be surprised. Mine is on Axletech Portals so my axle tubes are 5" higher than normal and I still have decent uptravel. Is the rig "low", well not really, but everyone is surprised at how low it is given what's under it. It is at 23" minimum frame height.
 

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you do realize the factory h233b axle nissan used is a beastly axle. even has larger gear then a ford 9" ...why would you toss it? guys have run retarded power and tires on factory h233b and never broke anything. IMO the consideration of a conventional style diff is a waist lol even if ring gear is .75in bigger

the pathfinder/truck rear driveline and frame is basically setup like a heavy 3/4 ton domestic. it got everything but full floating rear axles. but Nissans design of the semi-float axle is very robust. EPIC parts for a small truck
 

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you do realize the factory h233b axle nissan used is a beastly axle. even has larger gear then a ford 9" ...why would you toss it? guys have run retarded power and tires on factory h233b and never broke anything. IMO the consideration of a conventional style diff is a waist lol even if ring gear is .75in bigger

the pathfinder/truck rear driveline and frame is basically setup like a heavy 3/4 ton domestic. it got everything but full floating rear axles. but Nissans design of the semi-float axle is very robust. EPIC parts for a small truck
It has one big problem, it is a lot narrower than a SuperDuty axle. And gear ratio selection is an issue.

To you other comment, most trucks are set up like the Nissan truck rear. Big difference with a 3/4 ton domestic is the thickness of materials used, which makes everything heavier-duty. The Nissan axle is "epic" because it is overbuilt for a small truck, but it is not HD hardware. Let's be realistic here. I like it just as much as the next Nissan fan but it is sized for a small powerplant and a relatively low weight vehicle.
 

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Ok I understand the width issue.

but maybe your misunderstanding why a conventional diff NEEDS thicker material because of the way it has to be assembled and casted. I've seen toyota 8in axles (3rd member style) handle some pretty rank setups. I've also seen 9in ford (3rd memeber) handle insane setups. so how... the issan axle is heavier built then both the 8in toyota and the 9 in ford. Both of which have a reputation miles long. both on the track and off-road.

even a conventional style diff should be trussed for extra strength with big tires and power. BUT now because you have a cast center section. you need to be a damn good welder, use pre heating, and a nickle filler rod if you even want to be able to touch that housing without causing it weaken significantly. where a 3rd member style diff. can have the ENTIRE case welded because it is stamped the housing is much stronger and now you can just make it that much better.

but thats just my opinion lol

ive heard more nissan axle issues now since they switched to conventional diffs like the m226 and the dana 44

and if im not mistaken the first 3-4 years of titan came with the h233b in the back. behind the like almost 400hp 5.6l v8 and a much larger truck. Even when I look at gear and locker packages the newer m226 they must use the same carrier as the 31 spline h233b as they cross numbers. plus you have all the way to 5.89 gears? what are you running like 54" boggers with 900hp? cuz thats prolly where u start breaking the h233b lol

because of the way a 3rd memeber diff is designed. the carrier section holds the power within the carrier section then out to the axle bearings. so the housing is taking much less load from the engine. where a conventional diff put the power into the weakest area of the diff which is the casted center section. now your axle tubes and bearings get to twist on the power on that cast section while also trying to hold and contain your power. conventional diff's a just poorly designed. that is why they take more materials and generally break easier. the best thing a conventional diff can get is full float. this helps remove the power from the axle housing and center section by supporting the wheels and bearings directly to the housing. thus minimizing axle tube stress loads and now more like a 3rd member diffy the power stays in the center section of the diff and the bearings now support load only while the axle handles the torque. rather then semi float diff where the bearing is subject to vehicles loads aswell as the axle twist and torque
 

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Ok I understand the width issue.

but maybe your misunderstanding why a conventional diff NEEDS thicker material because of the way it has to be assembled and casted. I've seen toyota 8in axles (3rd member style) handle some pretty rank setups. I've also seen 9in ford (3rd memeber) handle insane setups. so how... the issan axle is heavier built then both the 8in toyota and the 9 in ford. Both of which have a reputation miles long. both on the track and off-road.

even a conventional style diff should be trussed for extra strength with big tires and power. BUT now because you have a cast center section. you need to be a damn good welder, use pre heating, and a nickle filler rod if you even want to be able to touch that housing without causing it weaken significantly. where a 3rd member style diff. can have the ENTIRE case welded because it is stamped the housing is much stronger and now you can just make it that much better.

but thats just my opinion lol

ive heard more nissan axle issues now since they switched to conventional diffs like the m226 and the dana 44

and if im not mistaken the first 3-4 years of titan came with the h233b in the back. behind the like almost 400hp 5.6l v8 and a much larger truck. Even when I look at gear and locker packages the newer m226 they must use the same carrier as the 31 spline h233b as they cross numbers. plus you have all the way to 5.89 gears? what are you running like 54" boggers with 900hp? cuz thats prolly where u start breaking the h233b lol

because of the way a 3rd memeber diff is designed. the carrier section holds the power within the carrier section then out to the axle bearings. so the housing is taking much less load from the engine. where a conventional diff put the power into the weakest area of the diff which is the casted center section. now your axle tubes and bearings get to twist on the power on that cast section while also trying to hold and contain your power. conventional diff's a just poorly designed. that is why they take more materials and generally break easier. the best thing a conventional diff can get is full float. this helps remove the power from the axle housing and center section by supporting the wheels and bearings directly to the housing. thus minimizing axle tube stress loads and now more like a 3rd member diffy the power stays in the center section of the diff and the bearings now support load only while the axle handles the torque. rather then semi float diff where the bearing is subject to vehicles loads aswell as the axle twist and torque
Run the H223B, cut the ends off, install spindle cups, install full float hubs, install custom axle shafts and flanges, run with a SD60 and boom, badass axle, now let's just go about the "Spindle cups, Full float hubs, Custom axle shafts and flanges" That's another $2000 to run the H223B with a SD60, it can be done and people will maybe do it though, I know I'm going to work on building a full float 9" using junkyard parts when I get the chance, since you happen to be nissan happy, do you know if the 3rd is Nodular or what material it is?
 
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