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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When something breaks I like to upgrade it. Just after I got my high miles Cummins last fall, 5th fell off. It had been "repaired" previously so the main shaft was shot. I put a reman transmission in along with a nice South Bend dual disc clutch, and was happy.

5th gear broke two teeth 9 months and 17,700 miles later. Not happy, I decided I wasn't going to stick with the NV4500. I pull heavy and hated the huge ratio splits, and I have no intention of breaking another transmission. An NV5600 would have helped the large splits, but I've seen heavy towing users making good power break them too, and the lack of availability made me nervous as well - and the cost was almost identical to my cost with this setup from most sources (though with much less fab work...).

I'd looked through my options when last the trans failed, looking primarily at any way I could get more overdrive out of any swap option. At the time I'd restricted my search to 8 speeds and below, and therefore didn't come across the Eaton RTOO series. This time, I did, and that's what I settled on. I sourced a fully rebuilt RTOO9513 from Casey's Truck Salvage World in Depew NY. I picked it up on Friday 8/13, finished tearing out the NV4500, replaced 5th, strapped it to a pallet and sent it on to its new life via Forward Air on Monday, and test drove my 13 speed Cummins Dodge on Thursday 8/19. Friday and Saturday I finished building a doghouse and put the interior back together, and Sunday-Monday I took it on a 1100 mile test drive to Minnesota.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
In the interest of time, I left it 4x2 for now. I have a divorced NP205 that I'll throw in sometime. I'll air shift probably just the front between N and H, I shouldn't need low range with my gearing options. Low and Low Reverse are very nearly the same as R and 1 in low range of the 241 with the 5 or 6 speed. I should be able to squeeze a one piece front shaft around the transmission, but it'll be interesting to see when I get to it.

What I got from Casey's (in my wheeler, since the tow pig is the only other rig I have on the road) was the transmission, SAE #2 clutch housing, clutch, shifter and RoadRanger knob, 14" flywheel, and some fasteners. They had a fun yard truck - two of them actually....

Some things to watch for:
the flywheel is thicker, and as such the stock flywheel bolts would be too short.
most SAE clutch housings have the starter on the passenger side. My stock starter would not clear the block in that location, and the starter I got with the swap parts did not clear the frame.
setting up a manual clutch linkage from scratch is every bit of the bitch you could imagine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A few pictures of the trans...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Obviously there was some floor cutting to be done, but otherwise the main pieces just bolt-on....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Then of course there were some mounts to make.

If I was going to do it over again I finally thought of a better way to do the rear mount than the stock type spring mount: I'd go from those two main studs backwards to a double valve spring type mount to a crossmember that more tightly wraps the trans that I could then attach to the frame to keep the trans tunnel from needing the wide bump outs I had to make to cover that leaf spring mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As I mentioned the clutch linkage was a total bear. The stock linkage location only gives about 2" of throw to the hydro setup, and that just didn't cut it. I came further down the clutch lever inside to increase throw. Parts of the lever assembly are 3/4x3/4 heims, 3/4 solid rod, and 1"x.120 tubing. I notice no deflection, and I'm pretty happy with the effort and feel. It was a pain to come up with something that worked, and then to make it match needed throw and pedal position. I was also stubborn about not making a new hole in the firewall; that would have made some things simpler.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
More clutch linkage, and clutch housing mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Once the clutch linkage and bell mounts were done, I still had the spring mounts to take care of. I actually didn't take any pictures of them directly. They're just angle capped with 1/4" plate welded to the frame. Driver side needed a spacer, which I used some random 2x4x.25 box for.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Obviously there's much more to come in the build (we're only up to Tuesday night), and there's much more to come in the first drive stories as well, but I'm calling it quits for tonight...
 

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wow :eek:

what ate the lines for on top of the tranny? defiantely lookin forward to the rest of your writeup :)
 

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Very nice, good job
 

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That's bad ass!! My buddy and I have been looking at an Eaton swap if/when our NV5600's go out.

Can't wait to see the finished product.
 

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What a teaser. Here I was excited to read about something cool and you stop telling the story partially through what you've already finished up!

Anyhow, nice job using something way overkill for the application. I like it. Also way nice job not putting in an automatic, since those are for bitches.
 

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wow :eek:

what ate the lines for on top of the tranny? defiantely lookin forward to the rest of your writeup :)
If you meant what "are" those lines, they are probably air lines.
 

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Was thinking along the same lines as you....except I can get my hands on a 3560 6 speed allison. What did you do for the large yoke on the trans to the 1410 on axle
 

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I got an old 5-speed Spicer for my '90 Dodge but haven't been able to find a cheap flywheel housing (or flywheel for that matter). I have a #3 housing which is more than enough room for the kind of clutch I'd need, but the Spicer clutch housing is #2 and I don't think I'll be able to find a #3 for it. I haven't even tried calling a big truck junkyard since I just can't imagine that having the parts pulled would be anywhere near my price range (I got the trans itself for $50).
 

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bad ass! I'm assuming the tranny is out of a cummins powered highway tractor? Just curious, the 13 is an awesome tranny, but would it have not been simpler to put a 7 or 10 in instead?
 

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Are you mounting the transmission to the body with that cheezy looking piece of flat bar?

I truly hope that is not permanent. You need to build a lot beefier mount if you expect that to last, not to mention not wanting it to rip the floor out of the truck.
 
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