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i requested your friendship on FB... FYI... i dint see any videos on your wall or links. :)

edit: there it is :)
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I had a better brainwave on this over the weekend:

instead of teeing off and running regulated low pressure to one side or the other, I'll tee off one side to an air actuated spool valve and switch the vacuum as stock does, in parallel with the double acting ram.

One MPA-3p pilot actuator
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MPA-3p

And an MJV-4 4-way spring return valve. http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MJV-4

I'll connect the vacuum to the inlet on the MJV-4, and outlets to each of the CAD ports, and both exhausts to the stock exhaust line.

then I'll supply pressure to it to switch vacuum to lock the CAD, and the spring return will have vacuum supplied to the disconnected side.

more better.

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Also got some news from the guy who bought my NV4500.... Apparently I was even more up against its limits than I thought: not only did I break three teeth of 5th, but my input shaft was on the verge of breaking. It wasn't something you could see by eye, but he was having issues with his single disc clutch disengaging, and when checked with a straight edge found this:




His trans guy said the input shaft p/n shows it was from a reputable company, not some cheap crap part... I guess I'm doubly glad to have a 1.75" input now instead of a 1.25"! That shaft would not have lived much longer if reinstalled, I'm certain.

I'm not even putting down that much power, still stock injectors and stock turbo an a quarter million mile 12v with 4x GSK, adjusted star wheel, and ground fuel plate.... I should only be around 300hp... weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Oh, I also got everything sealed up over the weekend with a full filler panel and real shift boot. No more smells, and much quieter than the towel. I think when I'm not split over it's actually quieter than stock, and it's totally tolerable when split out.

I also had my first tow - very short, and very light, (about 7 miles with a single TJ on the trailer) but enough confirmation that L-R is fantastic and perfect for backing, and that the close gears are just to die for...
 

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Can you get that with an SAE #3 bell instead of the #2? That would make the floor mods much less invasive, #3 is probably roughly the same size clutch housing as the stock bell needs. Most of the Alisons laying around at Casey's were SAE#3....




that could probably be arranged. I've split through all the top end, but I've yet to use L or 2. The L-1-2-3 might take a little practice, or a big load.
Not sure about the #3 bell, it came with a #2. I bought the trans with everything that bolted to the engine to keep it simple - it was bolted to a 5.9 so I won't have to do any piecing together.
 

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i know you can get an sae#3 flywheel housing for the engine side easy but the allison automatic is going to be your only choice. the rt 9513 only comes with sae#1 and #2 clutch housing. and the sae#2 clutch housing is kinda tight. i had to chisel some of the aluminum off in order to have enough room to get a socket on some the nuts. also theres 2 bolts that i didn't notice in there and i couldnt figure out why i was losing so much oil. i ended up having to pull the tranny back out to discover the problem. that was not fun at all
 

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Discussion Starter #67
the sae#2 clutch housing is kinda tight. i had to chisel some of the aluminum off in order to have enough room to get a socket on some the nuts.
huh? tight where/against what? The only clearance issue I have is the starter. I'd say try to find a driver side starter setup if you're going this route.
 

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inside. the tranny has 6 studs and 4 bolts(iirc) or something like that to hold the clutch housing on and in order to get the nuts on the studs i had to clearance the clutch housing then clearance it a little more o fit a socket. maybe i got one that was just cast a little funky or something. i never did bother taking pics of that but it wasnt a huge deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Just a quick update on this. I didn't get to the transfer case yet, but when I R&R'd the trans as a part of my motor swap (12v water jacket cracked, emptied cooling into oil pan. found cheap low mile 24v and swapped my p-pump on), I added a layer of thick rubber under the carpet and it's much quieter! I still need to do a filler piece around the shift boot but everything is much quieter. To the point that my breezy/rattly door seal and hinge are now annoying me into getting a bushing kit! :)

Still a pleasure to drive.
 

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Just a quick update on this. I didn't get to the transfer case yet, but when I R&R'd the trans as a part of my motor swap (12v water jacket cracked, emptied cooling into oil pan. found cheap low mile 24v and swapped my p-pump on), I added a layer of thick rubber under the carpet and it's much quieter! I still need to do a filler piece around the shift boot but everything is much quieter. To the point that my breezy/rattly door seal and hinge are now annoying me into getting a bushing kit! :)

Still a pleasure to drive.
Get the transfer case in and hit the mud...I bet that thing will sling some mud and tow a trailer.

Any change in fuel economy?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
....mumble mumble fucking hate mud....


if by sling mud you mean find the bottom, sure. weighs 8500# now with a full tank and toolbox.


economy is definitely up. it was down for 2 months with the motor swap, I think that's already looking to be a bigger difference than the trans. I have a console full of fuel receipts that need to be entered in my spreadsheet, maybe some trend will show up but there was relatively little time with the 12v/13sp combo, she broke down 10/26 give or take a couple days, that's only 2 months.
 

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i think that the dual countershafts and dual overdrives might suck down fuel economy because the engine has to spin all those gears. i don't bother keeping track of my fuel mileage but seat of the pants feel tells me that 7th direct (1:1) is where the engine is happiest power wise.
as far as mud you had better get going and be in the right gear before you hit it because without syncros you won't be able to shift once you're in the mud/sand/snow
 

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Discussion Starter #74
What I love most is just being able to always be in the right gear. I can keep it around 1700-1900 whether I'm doing 20, 40, 45, 60.... and I don't get out of that torque happy range until about 70mph. I was thinking about that yesterday - how I used to have to spin the thing at 2500rpm to do 70+. I don't miss that.

I'm sure between the extra rotating mass, the extra 500#, and the thicker gear oil it eats a lot of it. Still my favorite mod to the tow rig. Just have to get that tcase in it...
 

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What I love most is just being able to always be in the right gear. I can keep it around 1700-1900 whether I'm doing 20, 40, 45, 60.... and I don't get out of that torque happy range until about 70mph. I was thinking about that yesterday - how I used to have to spin the thing at 2500rpm to do 70+. I don't miss that.

I'm sure between the extra rotating mass, the extra 500#, and the thicker gear oil it eats a lot of it. Still my favorite mod to the tow rig. Just have to get that tcase in it...
same here. i usually try to keep it around 1500rpm but that's probably a little too low. i think i'm around 19-2000rpm at 75:smokin:
i can't stand going that fast without ear plugs though
 

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Discussion Starter #76
maybe you should consider adding some polish to your install...

mine's not cell phone conversation quiet just yet but it's close.
 

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maybe you should consider adding some polish to your install...

mine's not cell phone conversation quiet just yet but it's close.
i'm working on it but i just snapped an axle and have other stuff going on. plus it sucks being broke
 

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i got mine for about $950 plus shipping from goodies truck parts. it wasn't rebuilt but they had inspected it and replaced external parts like hoses and the regulator. i was lucky to find one so cheap and shipping was reasonable too. they also had a flywheel housing for $200ish and i found a #2 clutch housing on ebay though i don't remember how much. also it shipped without the output yoke/flange or the shifter
 

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Discussion Starter #80
My RTOO9513 was a full rebulid with warranty, complete swap all bought at once set me back $3750. Clutch, trans, SAE clutch housing, flywheel, ujoint, starter, some other odds and ends...

Couldn't find exactly what I was looking for on Craigslist since I was set on the double OD. If I'd been able to settle for a RTO there were a half dozen in reasonable distance with low miles around a grand to 1500. Then I'd still have had to scrounge the clutch housing, flywheel, etc.


Insulating the shifter stalk made a huge difference. Still need to do another nice rubber mat on the floor and maybe double boot the shifter and it will be nearly stock quiet. Nearly.
 
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