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Discussion Starter #1
Besides having the shifters on the other side is there anything I would have to account for? I am looking at the 300 as a "bolt in" case so I can run a pass. drop dana 60 front as well as have a chain driven case and twin stick capabilities. The main reason is I would imagine it could be done for about half that of an Atlas, selling my 231 with the 4to1 and SYE and I don't think I would be out of pocket much if any. Anyone done the swap to pass. drop? Thanks in advance.
 

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Exhaust will be in the way...you'll have to route it down the driver's side. Not like that's a bad thing...you'll get the hot exhaust out from under the oil pan, better for longer trail rides, but worse for winter warmups.
 

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I have a non flipped 300 in my TJ. I did the whole cable shifter thing and have my twin sticks still come up through the factory hole and center console. I redrilled the case to index it to do a belly up since it hangs way too low if you don't. Now my skid and cross member only hang down 1.5". And yes you obviously need to re-route the exhaust to the drivers side. You will also have to make a heat shield for the exhaust to keep from melting the clutch line and slave cylinder. I had to cut a tiny bit of the floor on the passenger side to do the cable shift, but that was a small price to pay. Its nice to be able to not have to reach for the shifters.















I am also running a 1" body lift and 1" engine mount lift to get a flatter belly. Here is a complete build up of my rig if you got some time to read http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=18884
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks and nice job. I was wondering about the cable shifters. So I suppose everything should bolt up to the AX15? I figured on using a clocking ring to rotated it almost flat for a belly up skid. The exhaust isn't a big deal I was more worried about mechanical problems, like I think I could sell my 4to1 231 and build a twin sticked, 4to1, dana 300 with very little actual out of pocket considering the damn 231 low range cost twice as much as the 300 low range. Thanks for the tips and let me know if you think of anything else.
 

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Nice, Since you just did it which cable did you go with? thread size and travel? I'm thinking about stealing your idea!
I went with a 4ft cable, 2" travel 5/16-24 thread. I ordered it with a nylon coating over the cable inside the sheath to keep it from getting corroded. I ordered 4 cables, 2 for me and 2 for a buddy and the total bill for them shipped was $137.79
 

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I wanted to bump this thread because I am about to do this and I have a few questions, so rather than start a new thread I'll just post in this.

First question, how are people bolting a dana 300 to an nv 3550. After searching, I saw plenty of threads saying that some of the vendor's clocking rings work, but after checking with the vendors, they had no idea if their ring would work with an nv3550. Can anyone confirm any specific clocking ring that will work? I'd rather not redrill the tranny if I don't have to.

Also how is everyone mounting there shifters and where are they coming through in the tub, looking for ideas.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Back up again. Got one going in. Cable shifters and all. I will post pics when I get done.

BTW get 48" cables I ordered 36 and think I can get them to work but 48" would be better.

Toddy
 
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