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Discussion starter · #41 · (Edited)
Ok maybe some progress--took a battery I have and powered up the RED wire to the WHITE CONNECTOR and this is what I got:

ignition off--no other wires have power>>>>>>>

ignition on: WHITE CONNECTOR WIRES:::
RED wire with WHITE tracer has power
YELLOW wire has power
BLUE wire has NO power

ignition on: BLACK CONNECTOR WIRES:::
RED with WHITE tracer has power
BLACK wire has no power(this is a ground wire for the guages I believe)

ignition to START: WHITE CONNECTOR WIRES:::
BLUE wire has power
RED with WHITE tracer has power

nothing else has power in the start>>>>>>>

so I'm thinking that the RJM HARNESS purple wire, and please correct me if I'm wrong, would connect to the BLUE wire

and that the RJM HARNESS orange wire would connect to the RED/WHITE TRACER wire---

then I'd continue the blue wire with the rjm purple to the solenoid

on one side of the solenoid would a wire would go to the starter(4 ga or better)
then on the other side of the solenoid you'd have a 4ga or better wire from battery and alternator----

again please chime in if you see a problem or see something I'm missing---
 
Discussion starter · #42 · (Edited)
ok I've been playin with the wiring the last few days and the above post seems to be the right way to do the ignition wiring---the solenoid (bought a new mustang one) clicks when I turn the ignition to start, but I don't have battery power to the solenoid yet, cuz I'm not sure where I'm putting the battery, but under the driver's seat is lookin' like the spot, may even shove 2 under there----

so far I've got the headlight switch in with dimmer switch on the floor---I used RJM's headlight harness to replace the old Willy's wiring--I just drilled out the holes where the old wires went, so that I could fish the connector thru the head-light enclosures-- turn signal LED dash lamps are in and the check engine LED light is also, although the check engine light is not coming on--may have to switch the wires on it though---I had to on the turn signal dash lamps to make them work---not sure why, maybe cuz they're LED's--- or maybe cuz not all the wiring is done, but I'd think it'd come on now...

I'll just keep pluggin along and see as more things get connected.....

brake lights work and I had to move the switch to make it work with the steering column and the modified cj7 pedals----I am going to replace the taillights with LED's cuz the old bulb's just aren't going to hang when in the rocks---they're already loose and the wires are chafed, so time to upgrade....

I've used a cj7 fuse block and removed the wires I wouldn't be using-also cut off the back half, cuz I have no firewall room to mount it like you would in a cj7 with the front harness---I've also used the cj7 steering column harness and the rear tail-light harness, with new ends at the tail-lights--this actually worked out pretty nice---I have wires in it for back up lights and for the fuel pump--not sure I'll use a wire for the fuel pump or not, but it's there just in case---

I ran new front turn signal wires, along with the wires to power up the RJM headlight harness thru the firewall---

so right now with temp battery power, I have working hi & low beam headlights, tail-lights, turn signals, hazards and brake lights, but no check engine light---

still have a ton more wiring to complete, but I feel the most complicated stuff is behind me---only thing that's messing with my pea brain is the fusible link wire that goes from the alternator to the starter solenoid---seem's like an awfully small wire for this(16ga or 14ga fusible link--supposed to be 2 wire sizes smaller than some wire and I've not figured out what wire this is, but I'm thinkin I run a 10ga wire from the solenoid and connect it to the 14ga fusible link and connect that to the alternator stud--I just need to reread things that I've found to see if that's right--seems like it is, but it still seems small)

I need to tidy up the wiring under the dash, but that will happen once I determine if I'm using more of the cj7 fuses and where I end up mounting the battery(ies).....
 
Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
Discussion starter · #44 · (Edited)
still playin with wiring--got the volt-meter guage installed, wires run for the tach--decided to mount the battery under the driver's seat--I may use two odyssey's, but we shall see---ran a ground to the frame for the battery, another ground from frame to one of the starter mounting bolts and I may add one more ground from motor to body--that should keep me well grounded!!!! ok sorry about that---

ok I really am starting to re think my purchase of guages, good lord what a pain to put those little nuts on for the mounting bracket---I looked long and hard at the Summit digital guage block, but decided to save a few $$$ and go with the Summit racing guages---

I have a 6 panel Moroso switch panel with fuses that I think I'm going to mount to the front of the center console--I'll have to build a box for it, but I plan to mount the ARB switches there, back up lights, rock lights and probably acc lights ---still have a fan switch to mount, but since that won't be used that often I'm going to mount that on the dash--I know I'm forgetting something switch wise, but I'll deal with that once I get there....
 
Discussion starter · #47 · (Edited)
this is the only other pic I have of the mod I did to the pedal assembly--I know I first put notch in the arms, thinking I could bend them up, but after notching more and more I ended up cuttin the arms then what ever arm was left with the pedal I cut off to match the arm length on the assembly and then welded it to the remaining arms on the hanging assembly----

it still took me some tacking and cutting off before I got them in the right position so that they'd work--well I think they'll work, I have full throw on both clutch and brake pedal---at some point after I've driven it I may reposition the pedals on the arms, but we shall see--

I also remember I had to notch the corners off the top of the pedal assembly to get it in and I may have shortened it a tad also from my original measurement just to make it easier to get in and out--I was getting ticked off puttin it in checking it adjusting and doing it again--

the pic below was taken during the notching and tryin to bend the pedals--I finally welded the notched bend here and then attached then inserted it into the jeep many times before I was able to get the arm short enough for proper pedal throw--

chris
 

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Discussion starter · #48 · (Edited)
I couldn't use the oem brake light switch mount with this mod, so I ended up welding a tab bracket on the steering column that I could mount the brake switch to--I'll take a pic of that and then stick the camera up in there and see if I can get some other pics, but I may wait until I get all the wires out of the way--chris
 
Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
got the gas pedal in and you can see where I put the brake switch, but I need to build a stop for gas pedal--got a lot of the wiring done, but still have plenty more to do-- think I'll put 3 ARB switches, rock light switches, backup light switch and front driving light switch in this piece I made and attach it to the front of the console as pictured---also a couple more pics of the pedal assembly, but they're not the greatest due to angles and no distance--one pic shows the distance off the floor, another one was an attempt to show how far off the firewall and another one showing the dimension I had to space the assembly off the firewall(1 1/4") to allow for the throw on the brake and clutch pedals---
 

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Discussion starter · #50 ·
my gas pedal is one I bought from one of the Willy's vendors--Quadratrec, Walcks, Kaiser or NWest--don't remember as it's been a couple of yrs--anyway I removed the rod it came with and bolted the oem floor attachment to it--I then took a construction connector(LSSU28) and removed just the "u" shaped pc--screwed it on with the 3 screws(which should provide some traction also and then drilled a hole it the passenger side of it for the connection---used what I think is a stock mustang throttle cable---don't remember where I got it from, so I'm not 100% sure if it is, but it fits----chris
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
I decided to try an E2000 fuel pump and mounted it and wired it up, I still need to run the fuel lines and filter---

bought 100' of 1.75 x .120 wall DOM tubing for the roll cage and had some 3/16" plate cut to finish the body armor--got the rear pieces drilled out for the LED tail-lights and one is mounted up, but now I have to try and bend it around the corner--hopefully my mapp gas torch can produce enough heat to bend it---

making slow progress, but any progress is good progress....
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
I worked on the body armor today--
 

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Discussion starter · #53 ·
some more pics--lots of bondo by the previous owner, but I knew this--that's why I comp cut it a couple yrs ago and planned to do this armor--still got some fine tune grinding to do, add some more bolts(I ran out) and I may weld up the seams, but I'm not sure I'll do that---
 

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Discussion starter · #58 ·
thanks Ron---trying to get her done so we can go wheelin', but work sucks so money is tight and I need hydro steering and driveshafts yet--

cage update--I marked out the tube in 1" increments, so that my feeble brain wouldn't have to try and figure out exactly where to place the tubing in the bender when duplcating bends---had my angle guage handy and went to town---I will say that trying to figure out lengths and angles by yourself isn't easy and I had to adjust my first bars because I got an angle wrong---no biggie, custom cage just got more custom----
 

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Discussion starter · #59 · (Edited)
The reason for the 3/8" plate on top of the rear wheel wells in the pics above is my coilover mounts which consist of two 1.75" tubes capped with a 1/4" x 4" x 12" plate are also my cage to frame tie in. The upper coilover mount is welded on to the plate and the plate comes right up to the underside of the wheel well. So on the top side of the wheel well I decided I'd use a 3/8" x 10 x 17" plate to tie the cage to. It will make sense when you see the pics below.

Now the tricky parts are coming up--since I want to keep the storage compartment under the passenger seat, plus I have a conduit running thru the back or the storage compartment for my battery cable and some other wires, so I can't bring a bar down to the floor from main hoop, so I'm either going to have sit it on top of the front of the rear wheel wells or come down on the front side of the wheel wells and plate and bolt it to the frame tie in. I wasted to much time yesterday trying to figure it out, so that's why I'm not further along. Also I have to figure out what I'm doing at the back and for the seats, but the seats have to wait until I figure out where to mount the last two main support bars(c pillar??)....chris
 

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Discussion starter · #60 ·
more progress pics....I have no design plans just slapping it together as I see fit--had to go egyptian with a support system since I couldn't get my youngest son to help me to hold things--probably for the best as he wouldn't have been able to keep things steady for measuring and fitting--
 

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