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First time I've ever saw one of those, pretty cool idea.

Worst case, have someone in the US order it for you and ship it to Canada via USPS. If you need help with that PM me.
 

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First time I've ever saw one of those, pretty cool idea.

Worst case, have someone in the US order it for you and ship it to Canada via USPS. If you need help with that PM me.
'preciate that offer very much. I might have to take you up on it.

this is only an issue now as the border is closed right now due to the attempted communist takeover of both our countries preventing me from getting to the shipping center I normally use for these situations.

when I saw this I figured this must be available on SWAG or other solutions guys on the p4x4
 

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I can't see those holding up well for notching.

I'm more than impressed with the Milwaukee hole saws. I've done multiple cages on one hole saw with out even a chipped tooth. Doing a 4130 cage now and they are still working fine.

I tried getting some fancy carbide tooth cutters for the 3/4" hole for my knock out set.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204FV76/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_uBWREbEMR9CX8

This is what electricians use, and they last for years. I think the hard this electrical boxes wear out traditional hole saws. Where these last longer. When I put them in my low speed drill press and tried to drill 1/8" mild steel, they quickly ripped all the teeth off, I was pretty disappointed. Back to a Milwaukee and it's done dozens of holes and still looks new besides the paint.

I did ditch the 1/4 pilot bit and just clamp on a small piece of flat bar that I welded a 3/4" lock collar on to use as a guide. Works much better.

Anyway, maybe I'm wrong, I'm curious to see how it works out.
 

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seems the annular cutters work awesome on my mag drill.
they are way easier to change out to a different size then the holesaws in the notcher.
I have a thing about needing a pipewrench to change sizes
I have a large collection of hole saws so it isnt like I have never used them.


I get this from your link
"Due to increased demand, we temporarily have reduced product selection available for delivery to your region. We are working to improve selection availability as soon as possible."

isnt communism a great idea. is there a massive shortage of yeast in the states too or just in the frozen north?
 

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I made a new arbor for my Baileigh tn250 about 5 years ago, to use annular cutters. Works good for thick materials. Not so much on 1/8” and under.

 

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I made a new arbor for my Baileigh tn250 about 5 years ago, to use annular cutters. Works good for thick materials. Not so much on 1/8” and under.

Just curious...

How thick is the piece of steel that the bearing block mounts too... and how big around is the steel round rod it attaches to.
 

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I did ditch the 1/4 pilot bit and just clamp on a small piece of flat bar that I welded a 3/4" lock collar on to use as a guide. Works much better.

Anyway, maybe I'm wrong, I'm curious to see how it works out.
Trying to picture this but not getting it.

What are you using for cutting fluid? Tap magic? I go thru hole saws fast not sure why though. Im not forcing it just feel like even pressure it cuts better.
 

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seems the annular cutters work awesome on my mag drill.
they are way easier to change out to a different size then the holesaws in the notcher.
I have a thing about needing a pipewrench to change sizes
I have a large collection of hole saws so it isnt like I have never used them.


I get this from your link
"Due to increased demand, we temporarily have reduced product selection available for delivery to your region. We are working to improve selection availability as soon as possible."

isnt communism a great idea. is there a massive shortage of yeast in the states too or just in the frozen north?
Cutting into a flat surface is totally different that a round bit into a round tube.



Trying to picture this but not getting it.

What are you using for cutting fluid? Tap magic? I go thru hole saws fast not sure why though. Im not forcing it just feel like even pressure it cuts better.
I took a 3/4 lock collar and welded it to a piece of flatbar, then used a hole saw with no drill to cut through the flat bar, the collar keeps it from moving around, so I just clamp that wherever I need the hole. This is for flat material.

Cutting fluid? :laughing:

I don't use anything when notching, too messy and the hole saws are cheap enough. I try to keep the speed relatively low, but sometimes it takes a little extra rpm to keep it from grabbing. Like i said, the Milwaukee hole saws are impressive.

On my little flat bar fixture deal I actually use an air gun in the empty set screw hole. Steady flow of air clears the chips out and even after a few holes through 1/8" plate the hole saw is cool to the touch. I hate the mess of cutting fluid, I only use it on taps.

Milwaukee drill set is pretty good too for not being very expensive.

Since I sound like a Milwaukee fan Boi, I will add, I fucking hate my M18 fuel hammer drill. It can't even drill a 3/8" hole in steel without stalling 25 times. It must be a lame ass nanny system, my old brushed drills were almost scary in "1st gear" I even snapped a 5/8" drill once. I think the old one had more power in 2 than this one does in 1.
 

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Since I sound like a Milwaukee fan Boi, I will add, I fucking hate my M18 fuel hammer drill. It can't even drill a 3/8" hole in steel without stalling 25 times. It must be a lame ass nanny system, my old brushed drills were almost scary in "1st gear" I even snapped a 5/8" drill once. I think the old one had more power in 2 than this one does in 1.

get a Milwaukee mud mixer for running your notcher...
 

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get a Milwaukee mud mixer for running your notcher...
I have a dedicated not her drill.

Got one of these out of the open box section for like $28. Works pretty well actually. I was planning on getting the low speed D handle version, but like I said, bargain bin. Why would I spend $200+ for something that rarely gets used?



There is no way that pos fuel drill would run the notcher. It's seriously sad. I can use it one handed full throttle and it will stall before it will twist my hand.
 

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Trying to picture this but not getting it.

What are you using for cutting fluid? Tap magic? I go thru hole saws fast not sure why though. Im not forcing it just feel like even pressure it cuts better.
how fast are you running them? i use a low speed drill personally, yeah i could use a higher speed drill and make cuts faster, but i feel like i get less cut life. also don't use goo, but it would help.
 

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Cutting into a flat surface is totally different that a round bit into a round tube.





I took a 3/4 lock collar and welded it to a piece of flatbar, then used a hole saw with no drill to cut through the flat bar, the collar keeps it from moving around, so I just clamp that wherever I need the hole. This is for flat material.

Cutting fluid? :laughing:

I don't use anything when notching, too messy and the hole saws are cheap enough. I try to keep the speed relatively low, but sometimes it takes a little extra rpm to keep it from grabbing. Like i said, the Milwaukee hole saws are impressive.

On my little flat bar fixture deal I actually use an air gun in the empty set screw hole. Steady flow of air clears the chips out and even after a few holes through 1/8" plate the hole saw is cool to the touch. I hate the mess of cutting fluid, I only use it on taps.

Milwaukee drill set is pretty good too for not being very expensive.

Since I sound like a Milwaukee fan Boi, I will add, I fucking hate my M18 fuel hammer drill. It can't even drill a 3/8" hole in steel without stalling 25 times. It must be a lame ass nanny system, my old brushed drills were almost scary in "1st gear" I even snapped a 5/8" drill once. I think the old one had more power in 2 than this one does in 1.
I agree the Milwaukee ones are better by a long shot but I'm not getting an entire cage worth of notches from one saw. I also remove the bit but i can see the flat bar keeping the whole saw square to the base better than just a set screw.
 

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I agree the Milwaukee ones are better by a long shot but I'm not getting an entire cage worth of notches from one saw. I also remove the bit but i can see the flat bar keeping the whole saw square to the base better than just a set screw.
Does the drill you are using have enough power that you can can keep the speed low?

Are you wearing them dull or ripping teeth off?

I've heard some guys go 1/4" bigger diameter on the hole saw than the tubing. Gives you a little gap for the weld to penetrate. Might help with life too?

Edit:

To be fair, most of the cages I do, a decent amount of the notches are done with a band saw and fine tuned with a flap wheel. When there are 3 tubes intersecting on a bend, even the most expensive hole saw notcher is useless.

 

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For whoever was interested, this is the guide I made



I have the swag knock out sized dimple dies and the HF knockout set, so I need a 3/4" hole for most of the punches.
 

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I agree the Milwaukee ones are better by a long shot but I'm not getting an entire cage worth of notches from one saw. I also remove the bit but i can see the flat bar keeping the whole saw square to the base better than just a set screw.

I built this entire cage with 1 Milwaukee hole saw in my 15yr old Pro Tools notcher. I'm pretty sure it was already in the notcher when I started this cage, so no telling how long its actually been around.

What are you using for a drill?
 

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