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seems the annular cutters work awesome on my mag drill.
they are way easier to change out to a different size then the holesaws in the notcher.
I have a thing about needing a pipewrench to change sizes
I have a large collection of hole saws so it isnt like I have never used them.


I get this from your link
"Due to increased demand, we temporarily have reduced product selection available for delivery to your region. We are working to improve selection availability as soon as possible."

isnt communism a great idea. is there a massive shortage of yeast in the states too or just in the frozen north?
Cutting into a flat surface is totally different that a round bit into a round tube.



Trying to picture this but not getting it.

What are you using for cutting fluid? Tap magic? I go thru hole saws fast not sure why though. Im not forcing it just feel like even pressure it cuts better.
I took a 3/4 lock collar and welded it to a piece of flatbar, then used a hole saw with no drill to cut through the flat bar, the collar keeps it from moving around, so I just clamp that wherever I need the hole. This is for flat material.

Cutting fluid? <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/laughing.gif" border="0" alt="" title="laughing" >:)</a>

I don't use anything when notching, too messy and the hole saws are cheap enough. I try to keep the speed relatively low, but sometimes it takes a little extra rpm to keep it from grabbing. Like i said, the Milwaukee hole saws are impressive.

On my little flat bar fixture deal I actually use an air gun in the empty set screw hole. Steady flow of air clears the chips out and even after a few holes through 1/8" plate the hole saw is cool to the touch. I hate the mess of cutting fluid, I only use it on taps.

Milwaukee drill set is pretty good too for not being very expensive.

Since I sound like a Milwaukee fan Boi, I will add, I fucking hate my M18 fuel hammer drill. It can't even drill a 3/8" hole in steel without stalling 25 times. It must be a lame ass nanny system, my old brushed drills were almost scary in "1st gear" I even snapped a 5/8" drill once. I think the old one had more power in 2 than this one does in 1.
Are you using a 5.0 battery on the hammer drill? I don't use mine a bunch but liked it enough to get a second after the first got stolen. Used it with a 2.5" hole saw through a 1/4" crossmember by hand the other day. Stalled a couple times, but I was running it really slow and it kept trying to grab. Didn't snap my wrists so that was cool...
 

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Are you using a 5.0 battery on the hammer drill? I don't use mine a bunch but liked it enough to get a second after the first got stolen. Used it with a 2.5" hole saw through a 1/4" crossmember by hand the other day. Stalled a couple times, but I was running it really slow and it kept trying to grab. Didn't snap my wrists so that was cool...
I have 4 batteries and all are 5.0, no difference between anything of them.

Besides a single hole or whatever helping someone, I have only really used a Dewalt 18v xrp (3 spd), my old 2 brush M18 drills and now this fuel one. Dewalt was flat out scary in 1, most things were done in 2.

Dewalt 18v xrp > M18 brushed > M18 fuel

What's weird is I did help a buddy one weekend and used his 20v xrp. For the little I used it, it felt like a pos, I could feel it flex in my hand and the power sucked. I think Dewalt had the market right before milwaukee really started going hard on the M18 line, they dropped the ball imo and their quality has fell.

Anyway! Hijack over

How's those annular cutters? :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
and back on topic.....who sells these and will ship to Canada?
 

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I have a dedicated not her drill.

Got one of these out of the open box section for like $28. Works pretty well actually. I was planning on getting the low speed D handle version, but like I said, bargain bin. Why would I spend $200+ for something that rarely gets used?



There is no way that pos fuel drill would run the notcher. It's seriously sad. I can use it one handed full throttle and it will stall before it will twist my hand.
I did the same thing, but got the cobalt version from lowes for 40 bucks.

MAx RPM is 800, I generally just go wide open. I find if I try to go slower the saw will just catch and try to rip off teeth.
 

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I would be really interested to see how long an annular cutter would last. I get a couple hundred notches out of a hole saw before it's cutting slow enough to be worth changing out. (still cuts, but slower and probably squealing)

To make the cost work out, the annular cutter would need to last 4 or 5 times longer than a holesaw. And that's if I buy a relatively cheap annular cutter. Has anyone tried these out? And if so, will they last 1000 notches or more? (I'm skeptical...)
 

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Once a holesaw goes dull and starts squealing gently give each tooth a lick on the bench grinder and they will cut miles better/not squeal
 

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I would be really interested to see how long an annular cutter would last. I get a couple hundred notches out of a hole saw before it's cutting slow enough to be worth changing out. (still cuts, but slower and probably squealing)

To make the cost work out, the annular cutter would need to last 4 or 5 times longer than a holesaw. And that's if I buy a relatively cheap annular cutter. Has anyone tried these out? And if so, will they last 1000 notches or more? (I'm skeptical...)
If you're getting a couple hundred notches out of a holesaw, I wouldn't bother. Annular cutters are meant for a milling machine, or at least something with a somewhat ridgid spindle and minimal run-out, not a straight arbor with a needle bearing on each end cutting through a round surface. They might work as well as a holesaw, but I doubt they'll last 4x as long. Would probably work better in a big drill press or mill setup for notching, especially with power downfeed. Ridgidity is key, and with an annular cutters you'd have less cutting edges removing the same amount of material as well, though I'm sure the quality of HSS would be better than a holesaw
 

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I would be really interested to see how long an annular cutter would last. I get a couple hundred notches out of a hole saw before it's cutting slow enough to be worth changing out. (still cuts, but slower and probably squealing)

To make the cost work out, the annular cutter would need to last 4 or 5 times longer than a holesaw. And that's if I buy a relatively cheap annular cutter. Has anyone tried these out? And if so, will they last 1000 notches or more? (I'm skeptical...)
I’ve had the annular cutter setup for almost five years on a tube notcher. Hole saws are the better bargain. I only use the annular cutter on .180 wall and thicker materials.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
my mag drill is far from a milling machine. annulars seem to work pretty good in it, even cutting rivets

If you're getting a couple hundred notches out of a holesaw, I wouldn't bother. Annular cutters are meant for a milling machine, or at least something with a somewhat ridgid spindle and minimal run-out, not a straight arbor with a needle bearing on each end cutting through a round surface. They might work as well as a holesaw, but I doubt they'll last 4x as long. Would probably work better in a big drill press or mill setup for notching, especially with power downfeed. Ridgidity is key, and with an annular cutters you'd have less cutting edges removing the same amount of material as well, though I'm sure the quality of HSS would be better than a holesaw
 

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my mag drill is far from a milling machine. annulars seem to work pretty good in it, even cutting rivets

If you're getting a couple hundred notches out of a holesaw, I wouldn't bother. Annular cutters are meant for a milling machine, or at least something with a somewhat ridgid spindle and minimal run-out, not a straight arbor with a needle bearing on each end cutting through a round surface. They might work as well as a holesaw, but I doubt they'll last 4x as long. Would probably work better in a big drill press or mill setup for notching, especially with power downfeed. Ridgidity is key, and with an annular cutters you'd have less cutting edges removing the same amount of material as well, though I'm sure the quality of HSS would be better than a holesaw
Well no shit, I said rigidity, a compact mag drill that's fixed to the workpiece with a quill and minimal spindle stickout sure makes it a lot more like a mill than a tubing notcher. No surprise that's it going to work well since mag drills are designed around using annular cutters
 

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my mag drill is far from a milling machine. annulars seem to work pretty good in it, even cutting rivets
You really can't see any difference from a mag drill compared to a notcher cutting round tube?

I will say this thread jinxed me, I smoked my first milwaukee hole saw :flipoff2: cutting a 25* notch into 095 chromo, go figure.
 

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i typically buy lenox hole saws and have had good luck with them

in my experience catching and breaking off teeth happens when you push too hard when cutting on edge

i built this turd jungle gym with one hole saw
 

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Discussion Starter #34
You really can't see any difference from a mag drill compared to a notcher cutting round tube?

I will say this thread jinxed me, I smoked my first milwaukee hole saw :flipoff2: cutting a 25* notch into 095 chromo, go figure.
so your mag drill is as stable as a milling machine that was just stated as the correct home for an annular? mine sure as fuk isnt. also curious what milling machine uses 3/4 weldon but thats a different topic.

I do not think I said anywhere in this thread what I wanted to cut, all I want is the little adapter.

all the discussion about holesaws is not for my benefit and I have zero interest in it so try not to connect it to what I am asking please. I assume everyone with a notcher knows wtf a hole saw is seeing as even the cheapest chyna POS notcher is made to use them.
 

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so your mag drill is as stable as a milling machine that was just stated as the correct home for an annular? mine sure as fuk isnt. also curious what milling machine uses 3/4 weldon but thats a different topic.

I do not think I said anywhere in this thread what I wanted to cut, all I want is the little adapter.

all the discussion about holesaws is not for my benefit and I have zero interest in it so try not to connect it to what I am asking please. I assume everyone with a notcher knows wtf a hole saw is seeing as even the cheapest chyna POS notcher is made to use them.
Stable as a milling machine? Well it depends on the mill and it depends on the mag drill. After all, as mentioned, the mag drill is built to use annular cutters. I was simply pointing out that a mag drill and notcher aren't really comparable.

So are you saying that you are using a notcher not cutting round tube in a notcher?

Yes, you're right, the hole saws was off topic, but it's pirate, it's how every thread goes :flipoff2: most of us were sharing or experience with different brand hole saws. When I first used a notcher, it seemed you could go through a $30 hole saw in a dozen cuts, now a good HS is cheaper and lasts way way longer.

Maybe if you explained what you were trying to do, you might get more help.
 

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Weldon shank tooling was basically one of the first types of holders created for milling machines after the helical flute endmill was introduced. So yeah, shitloads of mills use welding shank tooling.

As for your adapter, the site you linked doesn't list any specs about the adapter, all I see is a round tube with a set screw. What kind of mounting do you need to attach it to your notcher arbor, threaded attachment, or does it use a male or female weldon style shank like the rogue fab notcher arbors. With information like that it would be pretty easy to search for other products or just find someone on Craigslist with a lathe to make you one.
 

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i use endmills in my mag drill, pretty much the only thing i use it for is drilling out broken bolts and broken taps and extractors.

it's got tons of runout but is pretty much on par with a cheap mill as far as arbor and bearings and such go. it is certainly my mobile milling machine :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
:)
I am trying to buy an adapter to run 3/4 weldon in my notcher and have it shipped to Canada,
option 2- I am trying to get the border reopened so I can make it to my US mailbox and collect the stuff from vendors that do not ship to Canada.

yeah its P4x4, so I didnt whine at all when the off topic flowed. I have been here 20 years now.

I dont use cutting fluid with a holesaw either, air pressure works good to clear the chips out and extend holesaw life but launching debris around the shop sux. makes it easier to go through 1/2 plate without losing teeth as I find the chips cause more grief then anything else to the saw and work piece

current project is mounting shockwaves to a mustang irs in a 95 f150, so making shock mounts from box tubing, the mag drill doesnt like holding the thinner wall tubing that can easily be clamped in my chyna knockoff notchmaster thing.
my 1.75" annular arrived last night

Stable as a milling machine? Well it depends on the mill and it depends on the mag drill. After all, as mentioned, the mag drill is built to use annular cutters. I was simply pointing out that a mag drill and notcher aren't really comparable.

So are you saying that you are using a notcher not cutting round tube in a notcher?

Yes, you're right, the hole saws was off topic, but it's pirate, it's how every thread goes :flipoff2: most of us were sharing or experience with different brand hole saws. When I first used a notcher, it seemed you could go through a $30 hole saw in a dozen cuts, now a good HS is cheaper and lasts way way longer.

Maybe if you explained what you were trying to do, you might get more help.
 

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I’ve had the annular cutter setup for almost five years on a tube notcher. Hole saws are the better bargain. I only use the annular cutter on .180 wall and thicker materials.
Funny enough, I only find issues with holesaws on thin wall tubing, thicker stuff is butter.

so your mag drill is as stable as a milling machine that was just stated as the correct home for an annular? mine sure as fuk isnt. also curious what milling machine uses 3/4 weldon but thats a different topic.

I do not think I said anywhere in this thread what I wanted to cut, all I want is the little adapter.

all the discussion about holesaws is not for my benefit and I have zero interest in it so try not to connect it to what I am asking please. I assume everyone with a notcher knows wtf a hole saw is seeing as even the cheapest chyna POS notcher is made to use them.
You don't even need the flats in a collet... I just throw them in a R8 and call it good.

:)
I am trying to buy an adapter to run 3/4 weldon in my notcher and have it shipped to Canada,
option 2- I am trying to get the border reopened so I can make it to my US mailbox and collect the stuff from vendors that do not ship to Canada.

yeah its P4x4, so I didnt whine at all when the off topic flowed. I have been here 20 years now.

I dont use cutting fluid with a holesaw either, air pressure works good to clear the chips out and extend holesaw life but launching debris around the shop sux. makes it easier to go through 1/2 plate without losing teeth as I find the chips cause more grief then anything else to the saw and work piece

current project is mounting shockwaves to a mustang irs in a 95 f150, so making shock mounts from box tubing, the mag drill doesnt like holding the thinner wall tubing that can easily be clamped in my chyna knockoff notchmaster thing.
my 1.75" annular arrived last night
I don't know the availability of where you're at, but would it be possible to have a machinist make one out of A2 steel or something? Pretty simple, as long as it doesn't stick out too far. And I'd have to agree with the statements above about rigidity. I have a JD2 beast notcher, and the play in the shaft is horrendous in my opinion, it'd be no problem to chip the teeth on a cutter.

Best of luck to you, curious how it turns out.
 

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I've got a 3/4" EM holder for my lathe, thus MT3 shank in my case. I'd grab the cheapest EM holder you can find from eBay, CDCO, Shars or whoever sells machine tooling in Canaduh and lop off the shank (be it R8, MT, whatever's cheapest) then face it in a lathe and drill 'n tap 5/8-18 (or whatever you want)

If you source the holder and cut the shank off (hell, just use abrasives and if you anneal it some in the process, great) I'd think a guy with a lathe would face and tap for ya for ~$15....so about $85 CDN ;)
 
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