I think what bigger valves is saying is, if you cut say two 45* like this /\ then it will fish mouth the tube for a 90* connection...if one side is a smaller cut than the other then it will be at an angle...or I have a program called winmiter that you can plug different angles and tube size into and it will give you a template you can print out for your notch...I can email the program to you if you would like...it .98 mb so not too big...Bigger Valves said:chop saw a rough notch.. then fire up the angle grinder.. :flipoff2:
You mean something like this.zachv said:One of the toolcompanies sells those round needle thingies that you stick on the tube, get it close to the joint, and it gives you the outline of the notch. Someone will post the company that offers it, but they seem like the best idea for a tight joint.
cmk said:All those "crutches" are handy, but the more you do, the more you'll find yourself just hogging them out with a grinder.
cmk
Yep, these seem like the deal. They would cut down on all of the checking and have it done right the first time.flimmy said:
amen, i'm saving up for the shear notcher, that does the same as the chop saw method except just a lot quicker, easier, and quieterfoley said:
Ditto,
Turn your makita grinder on its' side, and wheel away on some scrap till the end of the wheel is rounded off, then start grinding... you get a feel for it after a while, and it gets to the point you would rather listen to the grinder than the squeeling and screeching of the damn hole saw...
like these:foley said:
On another note, if we could by 24 TPI hole saws, I'd be a LOT more likely to use them. Anyone have a source for them reasonably priced in something other then 6-8 TPI??
If they don't make a deeper version, then it won't work very well. I found some like that locally, but they were all too shallow. Right now I've got a coarse 1.75" Makita that works ok and it's 1.75" deep. Still have to flip the tube (or finish by hand) on almost every cut.cruiserrg said:
like these:
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http://vansantent.com/hole_saw_cutters.htm
I haven't bought any, I find that Lennox holesaws from the local building supply does fine.
I do have one of those tubing contour guage, and they work good.
those are cool... but what's up with only having up to 1 3/4"flimmy said:
Yeah, I've used those before... they really don't work nearly as well as you'd think. Great idea, but it falls short when actually using it...zachv said:One of the toolcompanies sells those round needle thingies that you stick on the tube, get it close to the joint, and it gives you the outline of the notch. Someone will post the company that offers it, but they seem like the best idea for a tight joint.