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Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've gotten some PMs regarding this thread Sorry about the pictures webshots closed up and it'll take me awhile to remember what pictures used to be posted where, I'll be updating it as i have time

Since this took so many turns Updated list of mods:

Some mods
-CJ body onto a YJ frame
-AMC V8 bomb proof bolt in motor mounts in YJ frame
-Recessed 8274 and integrated front bumper build
-Beefed up 8274 AK8.7 style
-custom steering box bracket and moved steering box forward for steering and to have steering hoses clear big radiator and for stretch, Used a Wagoneer pitman arm
-flat belly pan
-seperate tranny crossmember
-floor pan mods and new tunnel
-replaced rear crossmember and installed custom 29 gallon fuel tank that clears stretch hangs down no more than a stock tank and is high and tight to the body
1" BL
-Hydroboost brakes
-Metal Claok front fenders (yeah i cheated and bought em)

-Cam'd AMC401 w/ TBI (existing)
-Early GM NV4500 6.32:1
-4.3:1 Atlas


REAR: xj rear springs SUA used for stretch with hangers partially frenched into the frame
FRONT: Wagoneer front 44044 springs or RE1455's for stretch SUA (also ended up running RE1455's for .25" less stretch if you redrill 2nd leaf and flip around but better flex and softer ride, slightly longer than the 44044's ran both and they work well)

REAR: Currie Iron Rock Jock dana 60 HP 4.88's using an RD166 ARB with super dana 60 10" R&P, semi floater 5 on 5.5
FRONT: Low pinion 608.9, basically a 44/60 combo using a RD147 ARB and JK rear D44 8.9" ring and pinion with 60KP C's, machined KP knuckles and 35 spline shafts 5 on 5.5

some how slipped another project in an Old school hunting jeep project
- stated with a cheap wrecked CJ7 tub and frame
- stretched steering crossmember to allow steeing box to be moved forward
- garage narrowed a 1979 waggy dana 44 4"
- installed a Power Lok limited slips F&R
- 1 ton steering, HD steering bracket and brace
- JK 8.9" 4.10 R&P in rear scout housing
- AMC 360 2bbl motorcraft, T18 / D300.
- hydroboost brakes
- 2.5" wide springs all around u bolt flips
- 2.5" lift with 31's

I tried to link various threads with relavent info with bold underlined yellow text throughout the text of this build thread

Original top post:

Never thought much of documenting the progress of this jeep its just a jeep but i guess now i should throw up the history before i post up the mods i am planning and hoping to add into this. actual recent photos to follow when i get around to it in a month.

So heres the deal I tried for years to keep the classic CJ look but painting and tapping out my front fenders every year is getting old between trip 2 and trip 8 every year something smacks a rock and its usually influenced by a little attempt at a line i know better than to try. So its time for a tear down and a few upgrades.

Shes not going much taller but the ultimate objective is SUA 2" + wheel base stretch in the rear, a wrangler frame swap since mine looks like a pretzel after towing a FJ from WH3 on fordyce to the top this last trip and never seeing the front tires hit the ground. I want to attempt to fit 37's down the road and not look like a buffoon on the trail with a hacked up pieced together POS with out spending a fortune. So you can bet some tube fenders probably with a 3" flare will be on the front. And finally i want to continue trying to continue to piss off all the nay sayers about being able to keep up on the trail since i am still SUA. lots of effort and little upgrades... incognito approach. i probably could link it and do coil overs for the amount of thought and work going into it. Heres some history on what she was. And now you know what i THINK my plan is, going with longer springs front and even longer yet in the rear with no lost approach and departure angles from what i had, step up tire size, step up diff strength, t-case stength and work out some bugs with cooling..... i hope to yield good results accepting that its still sua and will have limitations.

So what worked for the last 9+ years were a variation of modified RE springs CJ rear 4.5 springs in the front, YJ 4.5 springs in the rear. front end moved 2" forward on the cj frame
a built Rambler AMC 401 w/ TBI, T18 D300 JB conversion charity package, 4.56's & ARB's (for 35's i should have run 4.10s or 4.27s for highway cruising) and Waggy 44 front. with Scout 44 rear wish i was 1"-1.5 wider on each side in the rear but that's minor. Alloy USA shafts in the rear and warn front shafts with CTM’s. running 35" creepy crawlers and allied steel beadlocks sometimes wish i was running 36's but hind sight is always 20/20. 1" body lift and 4" long 2.5" wide shackles. u bolt flip in the rear. parts mike high steer arms and 1 ton steering components in the front. redrilled and rewelded steering box bracket forward 1.5". most these pictures are before the new engine and before i did the hood louvers and Creepy Crawlers, can’t say enough about how much i like these tires just wish they were a true 35” tire when inflated thats my only gripe but i cant say enough good things about not having to fix a sidewall flat every other trip like i did on my bfgs.

mild motor build from last winter
Rambler motor put the old Javelin 401 back in there again.
bored it over with .030 over forged pistons and 9:1 CR
performer intake
little bit of port matching intake and exhaust with a little bit of hogging to the exhaust ports
Lunati cam# 64501
Adv dur 256/262 Dur @ .050 213/220 lift .484/.507 112/108
7.5 qt reinforced oil pan wow this pan took a beating
dual 2.5” pipes
Holley 670 Throttle body with 85# lbs/hr injectors and GM 7747 computer using craig moates burner 2 etc to program

Heres the real quick build up history thread.
Years ago 33's with some conglomeration of stock and modified springs put together to net 3" rear springs in the front and rear. tired old 360 t18 D300 amc model 20 and D30

couple years later with new steel wheels and a little welder time out boarded front springs, using rear spring packs for some more length and moved the axle and steering box forward a fair amount. D44's at this stage in life found some deals on warn shafts and ctm ujoints used but never run on Pbb and couldnt pass it up. ARB's f&R

terra blow gears post self destruct vs what i run now
low max
gear set (that has taken 10 tiems the abuse and never an issue)

Dont buy Terra gear sets they do this even when you dont hammer on em.
Picture deleted

stacking rocks in Moab, sure enjoyed pritchet canyon
Picture deleted

Going up WH1. same trip that i towed a toyota pickup

SUA involves another concept........hang time when driving

getting over it.................nothing like 100-150 RPM climbing a rock ledge and only having to hold the brake pedal. I love deactivating the stall saver programs.

The new hood louvers. a little air flow and some bling for the jeep note the different windshield and hood ........hmm stupidity once and rocks the second time

the winch: older pictures i had a XD9000i but some dude with a suzuki bought this 8274 and then discovered it was too big for his application traded the old abused winch and $400 and here is the current recovery option, still had shrink wrap on it

Picture deleted

Flat belly pan. D300 has a D20 oil pan on it for little extra capacity since its clocked up and a home fabed a girdle to try and minimize case flex the t18 was still a hair low even with some grinding it turned out to need 1/4" more room. id say afer this last pull out of fordyce this girdle worked and the gears took every thing i could throw at them this jeep saw every aspect of this motor in a situation i never thought it could handle as a D300. That 401 put down every pony it had pulling a dead fj40 on 38's up the grade without help and did it to meadow without any issues

Picture deleted

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Under the hood immediately after getting home after Rubicon in june so bare with the Dust

used a 200 amp constant duty solenoid for the battery isolation, hence dual solenoids mounted next to the winch.

Front out board brackets seem to be holding up but its time for a frame upgrade those can go int he wifes jeep

Got crazy at a buddy’s sheet metal shop one night (never use stainless for a dash adding holes is a PITA)

For cooling
Fans from a Cadillac el dorado running a 472 or a 500 are 18" in diameter and 3-1/4" high pitch 7 blade. blades are 5" across by nearly 5" long found this to work for all mechanical cooling using a 82-86 buick diesel severe duty fan clutch fits the stock shroud. Hayden Part number 2797

heres a link to the hummer fan 19.5" and 10 blade
that i used it pulled the fan blades a little further back from my radiator which helped with cooling since i was sucking too close to the core and not drawing air from across the entire core with my YJ frame swap i oriented the motor 3/4” further forward over the old cj setup. the fan is 19.5”
in diameter the blades are 6-1/8" long 3.5" wide and have a 2-1/8" high pitch
ow im no fan specialist but best i can tell the 472 cadilac fan blades account for 25 cubic inches each x7 would yeild 175 cubic inches of surface area. the military diesel 92-94 hummer fan accounts for 21.4" of surface area per blade at 10 blades would yeild 214 cubic inches of surface area. best i can tell the hummer fan which will bolt up to the 2797 fan clutch pulls more air. hole in my fan shroud is 21" and that may be too tight

Also on fan clutches they like to engage between 210-220 here is an article to address high engagement settings on factory thermostatic fan clutches and adjust them to get them to engage at lower settings you'll be amazed at the difference

because i wanted to lift things inside the frame, the motor mounts were re-drilled 3/4" higher

aluminum 3 core $139 ebay champion radiator that seemed to do a decent job for that year and bolted in with no issues. much better options out there but in a pinch it got me on the trail for the year. also ran the brice thomas v8 radiatorr for awhile it did fine in most weather but above 90 my motor sometimes would heat soak and battle temp creep ..... 210-220 was not uncommon cruising the highway. at idle or on the street with electric fan kicked on if would drop down but rock crawling or highway speeds it sometimes fought me..... my final choice has brough stability

the separate cross member sitting just above the flat belly pan. i like changing u joints without fighting the tranny back into its spot

And no amc powered jeep would be complete without a flaming but authentic set of 1976 AMC jeep red white and blue rubber floor mats.

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So hopefully the build will consist of a wrangler frame swap, i like the upgrade, beef and potential. i have one sitting here but if the cj frame gets plated up on the outside and some on the inside i might post pone that idea for a few more years

some home built tube fenders in the front

I plan to build a fuel tank to clear the stretch and get more than the current 20 gallons +/- in there with no extra hang down.

For suspension im thinking a modified version of some waggy 7 leaf springs of some sort. i found a set the other night at J&W with full military wraps, reversed and darned near flat. i want 3" +/- of lift and the objective is flex without getting above 20" at the skid on 35's and 20-21" +/- on 37's. for the rear im scouting around for somehting with 32.5" from center pin to hard mount and 22.5" from center pin to shackle in the rear. but may settle on XJ's

I intend to build another flat belly pan similar to what i have. stretching it a little further back and forward

I hope to cut the front cross member and drop the 8274 lower and get more weight down and more air flow. i intend to keep the AMC 401 v8 and mount it in the wrangler frame with some variation of a bomb proof mount and deserving cross member. i plan to use some tube fenders in front and TJ flares and sheet metal trimmed way up in the rear but i might come to my senses and build some tube rear fenders also. the objective is keep it low and open enough so to fit 37's down the road but not so much that the 35's look stupid.

There will be some drivetrain upgrades too including an upgrade to the rear using an iron jock D60 35 spline with an ARB in the rear and .............I picked up the bare housing and un pressed tubes for $300 and ive bee scrounging parts and getting some help putting it together though that might die if a screaming deal for a LP rear end pops up

in the front the options are pretty wide open ..........

iv got several different housings here that i could combine parts from.

who knows maybe between now and then i'll look at a 609 or something else will come up but thats bucks and i am trying to keep somewhat inside my budget. lots of options over the next couple of years for the front end but thats my current direction something different a little bit of a sleeper combo that looks weak but has that little extra beef where its needed. (hair brained idea but i want to try and see what i can accomplish in the garage with this idea) if the budget gets ahead of me or if another project sucks it away i may have to just make use of the dana 61 and get it done.

keeping her SUA with a little stretch and LCG with d60 rear and with the flat belly pan and fuel tank should be fun

The other part of the project will be dealing with some details in the efi like getting the spark curve dialed in when i swap the fuel only harness and distributor for a ESC setup combined with the TBI. I intend to put a toggle switch to cut the speed sensor and force the system into open loop when crawling (more stable idle) and I have programed off all the stall savers. the TBI now idles down to 150-200 rpm when you bury you foot in the brake and the motor jsut keeps chugging. should be fun.

lets see what we can get for flex, keep the drive lines high, drive ability and reliability. ive got 8 years and countless trips without issue and finally she needs a little tlc.......... pictures to follow in about a month once i get it torn down and the rear built between now and then thought i would start a thread to show the minor upgrades i intend to do.

shocks and hoops come last right before i order some shocks that fit and will last.

first kid in bound around 1st of april in the mean while until then after coyote hunting and ducks i've got spare time guess i better get busy. More in a week or two

dreams first, build up thread second ....check book third let see if i can keep her in budget

more when i have time

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The front end project will take me awhile, it is not in the budget.

Well i've scored some interesting parts recently

Dana 61 front end complete hub to hub 3.08 gears
Dana 44 hp 1/2 ton housing
AAM 9.25 housing bare
a low pinion J20 housing

SM420 w/ D300 adapter
T18 w/ D300 adapter

more later

final long term goal looking at my parts and since its a constantly moving target is early gm nv4500 with a 4.3:1 atlas. 5 on 5.5 lug pattern 4.88's and ARB's f&R pushing 37" with room for 38" tires SUA.

what will happen first year out i'll figure as parts pop up durring the trading season ....maybe it'll be a SM420/D300 or T18/D300 with 4:1 if an atlas and or an nv4500 pop up at super decent prices i'll pick em up but i suspect unless they are really cheap the nv4500 and atlas are long term, definately out of the budget right now unless someone buys my t-case and rear axle and the atlas and nv pop up for rediculously less than ive been seeing them for........ So these ideas are just what im keeping in mind so that i know my long term objective

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Well..... trading has been in high gear. Ran into a few snags on my hunting / ranch jeep which has drawn my time away from the recreational jeep

Added a few more parts to the collection. Super Dana 60 10" 4.88 ring and pinion. intend to use this in the rear RJ housing. with the HP rear end a nv4500 and atlas or D300 will be more than a little bit of an option down the road if a deal that i cant pass up ever pops up

Was thinking hard about the hybrid jana 54 HP D44 with D50 r&P and D60 knuckles to get D44 clearance and lighter weight etc..... but its hard to cough up the dough for a D44 35 spline carrier and they dont seem to pop up cheap, plus my waggy front tubes arent d60 knuckle friendly without a sleeve and then at 2-3/4 finding an inner seal and fitting 35 spline shafts arent exactly easy either. So probably just regear what i have unless all the chips fall in place this year. best place i found a price for the RD147 was 4x4 group buy for $840 shipped. thats a big pill to swallow.... we'll see

Staying SUA with a 60 or 61 theres going to be some serious housing grinding .

Started the disassembly. laying the repairs for the frame out in the garage here this weekend Started construction of a fuel tank that will clear the pumpkin when things get slid back.

tires ive been hunting for 2 years for a good deal on some lightly used under $1000 maxxis CC's or Iroks. the Iroks are closer and in my budget the CC's are further, we'll see money. sold about $1600 worth of parts so the slush fund has some wiggle room. more parts to sell

Progress is going to be slow.

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Can you post some pictures of the d-300 girdle and dana 20 inspection pan? Thanks a lot.
not many good pictures right now. had to roll my jeep out and get some paying side jobs in and out. funny how that works.

Belly pan side shot with CJ frame.

engine and tranny are lifted about as high as i could go and engine is slid forward. put the fan deeper into the shroud. sure sucks some air with that severe duty fan clutch.

at the time when i first built the CJ For cooling a stock 401 I found the stock stuff inadequate, i built a customshroud stuffed a 19.5" x 2-1/4" pitch FSJ fan in there and found the results to be marginally better. then i stubbled across a 18" 7 blade with high pitch 3-1/8" pitch. It came out of a 1977 caddy el dorado with a 472 v8 seems to be adequate. It matched up and into to the stock shroud. this is why i had to raise the motor, drop the radiator or build another shroud. (stock fan is 16-7/8" or 17" 7 blade with a hair under 2-1/2" of pitch, another fan that can be used is from a 1981-1986 Cadillac with the 4.1L v8 it is 7 blade an 18 inches also with similar pitch right at 3" and moves a lot of air too) i moved the MORE motor mounts up almost an inch since i have a 1" body lift to clear the 18" fan in stock shroud. Since i was going for a flat belly pan with my clocked dana 300 things needed to be shifted little any ways i re-drilled the MORE bombproof mounts 7/8" up and 3/8" forward sliding the motor slightly ahead helped with valve cover clearance at the fire wall, moving it up allows you to continue using the stock radiator shroud. I used a Hayden Severe duty fan clutch #2797 (buick with the diesel in the early 80's on some models like napa i had to notch the holes just a smidge to clear the bolts into the water pump but on a summit model i didn't, it was slotted deeper with universal slots). though it did raise my center of gravity a little it got the oil pan up and helped with raising the tranny and doing the flat belly pan

I run 30% dextron synthetic coolant and 70% Distilled water with a 180* mr gasket high flow thermostat. Iw as running a 4 core brass radiator but recently on ebay there were some aluminium radiators for $139 + shipping another $30 called champion aluminium radiators, 3 row (3- 5/8" tubes) that are down flow and bolt in. for the price a good deal and seem to be providing good results for me. i think there are better radiators out there and when i get ambitious i'll drop the money in that direction, right now everything seems to cut it 95% of the time. shoot i even drug a dead FJ40 on 38.5's up and out of fordyce from WH3 to the top bymyself and didnt overheat. he broke his t-case off the back of the tranny in squeze. it was a long night my D44 rear was screeming and so was my motor but all the parts worked in unison for once and we scratched by on alot of dub luck

Look closely you'll see the D20 cover and then welded on the outside of it is a stenciled plate that IMHO acts as some what of a girdle. dont know if it helps but i tried it while i was working on the the t-case so far no cracks... lol like thats a scientific measurement

Oh yeah those lines that i know better.... how about letting the passenger try soup bowl. yikes what was i thinking rookies just dont understand the mash the brake pedal concept soon as he hit the throttle it was all over but thewinching. hes still mad i made it and then he got'r stuck. note to self the winch plate i made is OK but a hair thin. under full load it flexes a touch and that concerns me. i hope to tie a new WP into a front bumper, maybe even dropping it down lower int eh frame rails

why i think a little extra stretch in the rear might make a little difference. climbs like this i wish the rear end was just a smidge further back and the weight a little more centered. made it but its a work out. Fordyce WH3 far left bypass.

Pictures will be slow. currie IRJ rear end is in the works as we speak.

As well Working on the parts combo to do something with my front D61 to make it work. got a pleasant suprise my D61 has swapped in 35 spline outers already, dana spicer shafts but a nice supprise. For a $300 purchase this D61 is really paying off. who gives a crap about a spacer to make the R&P mesh everything else is here and is all 35 spline knig pin dana 60 stuff. narrowing will be the PITA. the spacer isnt going to cost me too much in strength and as a front end i am really not too concerned my rear end is where i always have issues. weight is a concern though with a 61 front end.
i guess if a 9 inch RD99 poped up under $600 i might look at building a budget (using this term loosely) Low pinion 609 inch front for kicks shoot i could steal the shafts, knuckles and C's off the 61, french a sua perch into a ruff stuff housing for $500-600 and for +/- $1200 + a R&P have a trick little setup..... thats later and i have to sell a bunch of my existing crap to play that game. the other option is get a currie 9+ hd center for $200, turn down the 3-1/8" d61tubes to a 3" OD and weld them to the 9" center...... decissions decissions. i just dont like the pinion offset on the 9" on a passenger side low pinion application. and high pinion looks like an issue from D44 all the way up in size but until i get into it i cant say for sure

looking at this sua 60 idea/concept to make my sua stubborness work

I'll get a better picture of the direct underside of the d300 cover when i drop the skid plate next week

30 Posts
beautiful looking cj, especially the color. my first restoration I picked that color. interesting how you are keeping SUA, as so many guys are going a different direction. i like it. my cousin fit 37s with a 1" body lift, a 2.5 spring, and some significant trimming. have fun and good luck

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
side tracked. the 1984 hunting / ranch jeep took a serious crap, rats ate wiring harness fried the main harness and frame had a HUGE rust hole on the inside that was about 24" long when i started to try and repair plus it needed a set of axles. found a wrecked 1978 jeep with 304, T18 D20 straight frame, 3.54 gears and stock axles 2.5" lift but totaled tub for $250...........

So my jeep is on hold as the ranch jeep / backup jeep takes priority. I'm still putting the RJ in the back of mine and it looks like i'll just be bandaiding some 4.88's into my fornt end to keep it going for the year.

Ranch jeep will probably rob me of the SM420 and my spare stock D300. reason being since i have the tub off its easier to rig it up as a future trail rig now than later and the T18 D20 still catches a pretty penny on CL. Im sure i can sell the rebuild 4.2 with mopar injection and carb #'s.

304 will probably be donated to a friend and my old tired 360 will find a new home under the hood of the rust bucket. it also will at least get a ARB equipt front axle and a power lok'd rear axle. when she's done it'll be a fully capibile backup trail rig if my silver one ever takes a digger i can just pull this one down from the moutain and head to the sierras without missing a beat

Major distraction but ............ the silver jeep runs and is still hanging on to its trail worthyness. WB Stretch with the springs and frame swap for the silver jeep will come but it is on hold so i can have something to tool around in up where it counts.

So now its a build X2

for carburetors those still running motorcraft 2bbls:
Find a 2100 and save considerable money. Stamped inside the "clockface" on the driver's side of the carb will indicate the CFM rating:

0.98 = 190 CFM
1.01 = 240 CFM
1.02 = 245 CFM
1.08 = 287 CFM
1.14 = 300 CFM
1.21 = 351 CFM
1.23 = 356 CFM
1.33 = 424 CFM

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Down with your plans and subscribed in.

You think you are going to cut the tub up a bit for the LCG?

Im betting your near me and can lend a hand if needed.
Some but im trying to retain as much of a clean look as i can whats hidden under those plastic flares is another story. i'll bend up some tube fenders when i get a chance. trimming the hood to clear makes me cring.

located in windsor, though i appreciate the offer i think the 2 hour drive might beat you up

So here is what followed me home for $250 on saturday


pretty hard hit thats almost 12 inches into the cab and the cowl is buckled up

Saturday when it came home it found its way into the garage

little gas down the old motorcraft and a battery adn even after 8 dead years it fired right up and ran. we have a runner

So now get everything i can salvage off the junk tub and grab the slightly rusty old tub off the jeep with the bad frame in the back round, the one sporting the cool barbie Flames down the side

Saturday night around 10 pm my ..........neighbors love me good thing im not renting

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Decissions Decissions Decissions

Dont worry the Coors Light Engineering department is hard at work

Since this is one of those quick throw togethers, more like an inconvenience but if i dont do it before the baby it probably isnt getting done anytime soon. So i really shouldnt be doing it but since all the crap is sitting here i might as well make it come together in some semblence of functionality at least until i can weld on theoutboarded perches and sticka 44 under there the stock stuff will have to get by for now.

Transmissions I have
a T18 with D300 adapter that is in the silver jeep and could be pulled out in about 45 minutes
SM420 with D300 adapter (easier to sell than adapt into this headache) (sold)
6.32:1 T18 with D20
or a T176 bolted to the current stock dana 300.......

Picture of the T18/D20 that was in there. great combo but in this case i might as well capitalize on more future upgrade options and better gearing via the T18 / 300. anyways i had to pull it out the bone head that owned this didnt put the right diameter two lower tranny bolts in and it pulled away from the bell not much of the pilot bushing left and the clutch hub was pretty beat though the input didnt have any issues looks like there was only a few miles on this since the cob job install.

As to engine though the 304 runs now is sure a nice time to think about a swap

current motors:
AMC304 in the jeep (sold)
AMC 360 sitting ont he garage floor with 2bbl carb intake
AMC401 4bbl intake. probably will break every driveline component and will make the jeep too loud for idling around a ranch
AMC258 with mopar multi port efi kit on it sold for $1200 (sold)

Mopar MPFI 258, probably the healthiest motor out of my pile but also the motor i think that has the most value to be sold. since this is a ranch jeep a motorcraft and a mechanical lift pump tied to a hei distributor sure sounds better than wiring that rats like to chew on.

poor little amc 360 stuffed in the corner. i know more about this motor than the 304 so it'll probably find its way under the hood

there you have it, my distraction for the moment whil i await the arrival of my RJ rear end and get motivated on the silver jeep in the meanwhile i'll see what i can come up with for the beater. The RJ got a major shot in the arm, i stumbled onto a set of currie rear 35 spline shafts 30" and 33-1/2" i'll have to narrow one of them to get my 60-61" rear width but i picked em up off craigs list never installed for $75 today. sold the old wrecked jeep tub on CL also........ so so far so good keeping the expenditures down on the silver CJ project for now

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So for the last month i was a little distracted with the hunting jeep.... anyways coming in still under budget

couple of things id like to add but budget is still tight..... unfortunately the two old jeeps are providing allthe financing as well im digging up every old seat and part i can find that i have stashed away..... I'll be getting to the RJ, Wrangler frame and Spring under setup soon enough this just got in the way.

Orange Jeep bought for $1000 had $1500 in it when i decided to part ways
Sold engine and T176 for $1500 sold axles for $300, kept the Dana 300 wiring, hood, grille and fenders plus lots of other parts including a warn winch

Red jeep bought for $250 on craigs list, sold body for $100. came with a 304, T18/ D20 3.54 axles and a few other goodies

and somebody wanted the sm420 so it went away

AMC360 performer intake (accumulated over time)
motorcraft 2bbl ($35 at pick n pull)
100 amp one wire alternator (spare accumulated over time)
HEI distributor ($60 off ebay. needed some grinding to clear intake)
Wires for a 460 cut to fit ($30 at Oreilies)
PS pump off of Red jeep
4 core radiator (previous purchase from my 401 powered jeeep too small)
home made shroud (some tin and a little time on a buddy's break)
18" cadiallac 7 blade high pitch fan ($5 pick and pull)
9000 lbs warn winch (came with the orange jeep needed a solenoid, solenoid donated by a good friend)
Paint and supplies $100
Clutch (something i accumulated in a trade)
Pilot bushing, bell housing studs,throwout bearing etc ($60)
Belts, hoses, gaskets, fuel pump and filter ($140)
White jeep wrangler body $150
Lower 3/16 rocker gaurds $40
Body armor rear corners from the old poison Spyder (since the screwed up my order sent me the wrong product then went out of business they've spent quite awhile in my rafers looking for a home
Seats ($ pirate board free)
Blazer blower motor upgrade to the heater (wrecking yard $8)
Dual batteries (compliments of each the red jeep and the orange jeep plus a piece of 1/8" plate that i bent to fit them ($10 in scrap metal and time on the break)
hydraulic clutch, used my spare MC that i have carried in my silver jeep for 9 years and never needed, bought the slave cylinder from napa for $13 and the factory hydraulic hose for $18 off the internet
gauges $30
found an old 1" body lift kit that was incorrectly shipped to me by daystar 10 years ago that they never picked up so i did a little trimming and made things fit (free)

Update on axles summer 2012
Picked up a JK dana 44 8.9" R&P 4.10 ratio for $40 and an old power lok $100, that i rebuilt and threw in 4 curves and 6 flats. installed into a scout rear dana 44 housing. 2 seconds of grinding at the top and bottom of the cover flange to get the ring gear to slip in otherwise wasnt really necessary but made the in and out of setup much easier. The scout rear is 58” wide
The first housing must have been bent because i smoked a wheel bearing and powerlok. previous owner had smoked a lock right locker ….. so found a detroit locker and another scout housing rewelded the plug welds on new housing. found some donated superior alloy shafts added 3/16 retainer plates….. ridiculous overkill on 31’s

picked up a TJ rubicon 8.5" 4.10 thick gearset for $60 and another Plok for $200 setup with 4 curves and 6 flats drilled out bolt holes installed into a wagoneer d44 front end, narrowed one side to 44" BJ to BJ and slipped in the front of the CJ. had an old set of Yukon shafts some from a waggy and one long shaft for a J20, shortened and resplined the long one, installed full circle clips and 760X joints. i did this because i didnt want to outboard the springs on this rig for multiple reasons. FYI the narrowed front with small bearing GM spindles, and 1980-1996 F150/Bronco hubs came out at 57-1/2" wide. Added 2-1.25" wheel spacers sucking the hubs in a little and making the WMS width 60".

Killed the stock steering box finally so its now sporting a 96-2002 H1 box from rockauto for $150. huge upgrade, bolt in deal. if i didnt have Orings already and the HD crown steering shaft which has the 13/16 diameter splined input and was going with flared stuff i would have run the 77-79 J20 box both have the big piston both are basically a bolt in but the J20 box uses 3/4" input splines which requires a manual stering equipt cj steering shaft. since i already had the shaft adn the hoses no need for the headache. either way everything else is straight across and you get variable geometry bigger bearings and case along with more pushing power. .

Why i scrapped the orange body, the bondo was thick the rust required you to get a tetinus shot from 10' away

body swap by yourself

helps when the wood is wet

white wrangler body was a little more mangled than i thought but was way better than the cj7 body. if aanyone ever does a wrangler swap the two mounts behind the seats umder the roll bar on the cj frame are further back. fortunately the holes are in the body so accomodate a bolt and nut combo and the rear mounts are off a little wider than the cj frame by a 1/2" maybe a touch more on each sinde nothing you cant overcome. otherwise it is a bolt up deal

little paint some body aromor and all the sins of that old body are forgotten

a few galvenized step shingles for a gauge holder and some el cheepo $30 gauges

its getting there for only a months worth of work im pretty happy with how it looks now vs previously actually im going to feel bad leaving this at the ranch now

little touch up work on the cowl.

home made dual battery tray.

Now that the pimped out great white hunting jeep is wrapped up its back to the original purpose of this thread..... upgrades to the silver cj

Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
So the hunting jeep is finished, pimped out with a 9000 lbs warn winch that i finally got working. Welded up a front bemper that i recessed it into. and rigged up some elcheepo backup lights for those late night firewood excursisons and no jeep would be complete without a set of tow hooks welded to the rear bumper.........And shinny aluminium wheels.

Funny thing this last week i picked up a T18 with D300 adapter in a trade. So the jeep as of tonight is sporting a T18 with a stock D300 giving it a very respectable crawl ratio slow enough to idle around the moutain and not spill your cocktail. Fast enough in 4th to chase down a coyote.

crawl ratio with this combo is a respectable 70:1.

SM420 sold for $500

Now on to the build on the Silver jeep

Front fenders i was going to build them but

these guys at metal cloak did a pretty good job....... so either i'll copy their idea or see what fits into the budget.

As to the front end, ive toyed around with all sorts of options what occured to me recently Since the D61 i bought for $300 its most everything i need minus the headaches in the center section. and since have sold the 35 spline stubs and 35 spilne hubs to reduce my investment cost for the rime being. they were parts and dollars sitting still

I Ordered a oversized JP3006 radiator from brice thomas radiators, sporting dual 1.25" tubes, and a 17"x24" core (6 cyl spec since v8s are 15.5"x24) giving me more surface area and capacity for cooling, built a custom aluminium shroud. make sure if you order one of these that you have the lower water neck pointing straight out or slightly up the angle they provide is ENTIRELY TOO STEEP. For those who dont know the late model 81-86 cj grille radiator hole is 3" deep vs the 1980 and older radiator supports are only 2.5" deep. This extra depth makes stuffing a deeper radiator in my case 3” thick radiator into the hole and having it nearly flush with the fan shroud without cutting, there might be some finness with the hammer but most of its not visible. the bottom corner by the water neck would benefit from being notched about 3/4”-1” to clear steering shaft and hydraulic lines. not necessary but helpful see picture with blue tape signifying where i would have notched as well dual 1” tubes probably would have been fine another 1/2” between my core and the fan would be nice but i wanted max capacity

thats the current update.

i looked at the hummer 6.2L fan 19", 10 blade i may someday check it out as an upgrade , but right now thats more $ invested in something i have no idea will fit or wont. i can build a new shroud to clear it just not sure on the offset

i ended up running this hummer fan and highly recommend it not only is it easier to wrench on but also is plastic

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3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I'm moving at a snails pace, plans keep changing and i keep having delays.

The hunting jeep made it to the ranch without issues.... along with the Nissan Patrol a few weeks ago.

A glimpse of the 6cyl radiator that i ordered with the V8 shroud sitting over the top. notice the larger core and then the mfgr sells this radiator as a sigle core or dual 1" core'd radiator but you can ask them to upgrade to dual 1.25" tubes which makes the thicknes at the tanks 3" which barely fits. i suggest having them notch the lower corner by the outlet by about an inch x 6". it can be done there is room and it helps with clearing your PS hoses. also have them weld on the water neck coming straight out. the angle of the water neck is too steep as it came. no biggie cut it off and re-welded but for anyone else just be aware

The blue tape notes where i think some clearancing by the radiator company would have really heled

time to make a fan shroud

setting up to weld the angle iron brackets onto the radiator. the ones that came with it were too short. and i had them not weld them on so i could move the radiator up or down as i saw fit

3/4" deep

4 month old chief supervisor

2" piece of flat bar that i rolled around a garbage can and then clamped and cut before welding

its easier when your buddy has a tig welder for him to tack it all in place

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3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
IIRC i used 16 GA for the tray and 1/8" on the circle

Had to fill the lower gap so i got a piece of 3/4" wide drop 1/8" thick material. i am leaving that 2x3" hole on the bottom left open, yes its an air leak but it still allows the air flow to go through and the fan will be sucking air across the rest of the radiator quite well. 1" of clearance all the way around the fan

test fit before we welded it all the way around

Nabbed a Chevy hydro boost used 2 pieces of 3/4" thick aluminium plate, drilled a 2-1/4" hole to clear the nut and fastened it to the flywall. since my vacumm booster work hardened and cracked it looked like time to upgrade again. no need to buy a bracket when its pretty easy to make your own. i may still thread the rod to lower the brake pedal a little more its about a 1/2" above the clutch pedal and i usually like it a hair below.

the old setup, checking to see how close i can clock the steering box towards the frame

slipped a new bumper in there, ditched the 4" x2 bumper with 1/8" walls that was pretty beat up and went to some 1/4" 5x2..... then welded on some different outboarding brackets, plated the inside of the frame back about a foot and notched it out for the winch face plate. I also will have a 1/4" broke plate stretching from frame rail to frame rail bent to clear the steering box and winch stitched to the back of the bumper and over the tops of the frame rails as well gusseted to the front winch plate.

and started in on welding a 5/16" thick plate for mounting the winch to the bumper.

i measured up the old winch plate and drilled the holes according to that. hind sight it 20/20 i could have lowered the winch another 1" lower into the frame rails....... i might do that later some day

stole some ideas from blackjacks 8.7AK thread:

Gave the winch a little tune up, changed out solenoids to 9.5XP solenoids and installed the 6hp XP motor also. threw in some of that Roadranger synthetic 50wt since i had a jug of it here, upgraded to 0 gauge welding cable also fromt he battery all the way through to the motor.

As to springs front springs are going to get a little bit of love, shackle hangers are some ruffstuff way back hangers combined with some more boomerang shackles that i picked up used here on pbb. though i wanted to use the wagoneer springs i have a set of rubicon express springs here that are modified and the right length. if i ever go to a YJ frame i'll run the Wagoneer springs to get the 2" stretch or think about other options but for now what ive got is pretty straight forward.

still a work in progress. rear axle is going back about 2-3 inches and the rear fuel tank is coming out and getting notched.

from a couple of sources it has been suggested that much past about 28.5” on the front half and 23” on the back half from center pin seems to be the limit on length of spring for a rear application with off set pin and spring wrap. I was trying to figure out something on in line with 22.5” on the short shackle side of the spring and 32.5 on the long front side like Holbrook but the feedback so far is that i should be close enough and cheaper this route.

I am working on moving the hangers front and rear so that the boomerang shackles under full compression will put the end of the leaf spring above the bottom edge of the bumpers front and rear by several inches. using Ruff stuffs far back mounts i and witht he pivot below the frame further i believe there is some flex and compression to be capitalized on.

I am dreaming of a 100 inch wheel base but its all going to hinge on visual appearance too can't look too out of proportion that would defeat the purpose of trying to keep this one a sleeper 97-98" will be fine if the rear axle looks too far out of center.

on the front im keeping with a target 60*-65* shackle angle, the thought is especially with the boomerangs the further forward the shackle is the more down travel i can achieve but it is a fine line.

as to the rear we'll see how the longer off set pin spring idea pays off..

to get a little more fuel capacity i am thinking that when i rebuild the cage i was thinking about mounting or building a couple of fuel cells like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BOB-10993/. for under the seat on one or both sides. Reason being is the under seat space is always dead space, and with my motor fuel is a precious comodity especially if i go to do Dusy being able to install 1 or 2 8 gallon fuel cells and the extra 16 gallons of fuel over my current 19 would sure go a long ways to making many trips alot more relaxing. packing around 3 jerry cans behind the bumper vs the equivalent of 3 jerry cans mid vehicle seems to me to be a better way at keeping the weight centered and low. nothing like always wondering how much you have left in the tank after 2 or 3 days. if i install an atlas and nv4500 the floor will probably get cut up some to raise them up and that will restrict what i can slip under the seats

So far just working on the front end and frame ........... then taking a look at the rear end and frame interaction. i'll move back up and do the tube fenders on the front

and this next winter a family cage.

1 thing at a time

In the mean while though had a Little bit of a delay, had a 4-1/2" cutting wheel blow apart caught me just above my welding gloves and just below the jacket since the jacket had worked its way up. looked like a piece of pie stiking out of my arm. only problem was the blood squirting out a couple of feet from my arm, so the piece got pulled a rag got stuffed on there, some pressure and some tape, a 10pm trip to the ER and some stitches later we are back up and running. picture is from hostipal. 3 internal stitches and 7 external.


Premium Member
3,345 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I always wanted to recess the 8274 down some into the frame rails problem was it always seemed like there would be a bunch of interference. Now was the time to play with the idea

Fabbing up the new steering box cross member, notched out an area for the box to poke up through, my idea here is that if i ever want to move the axle/ box further forward i have a 1/4" plate flat surface to work with instead of the stock crossmember. so i can redrill and move the box forward fairly easily down the road if i want

picture of the clearance of the steering box to the winch through the notch, plenty of room for future movements , up down forward, or to the side some more

since the rear angle plate was a seperate piece from the rest of the plate i welded it to the plate and then stitched a piece of angle in over the original weld to reinforce tthat area, not sure it was needed but at the moment it seemed like a decent idea.

before the gussets

the outboard brackets also serve as the tie ins for the front bumper/ winch setup to the outside of the frame rail

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