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The first one is a kit to extend the life of the chain. It has a excentric front output bearings so as the chain wears you can add tension.
Waste of money if you ask me. Those chains will go an easy 150k FULLTIME before they need replacing. A good new chain is about $105. That kit is the same price. Since it sounds like you converting it to part time you will be lucky to 10k on the chain in the next 10 years.
The second is what appears to be the cheaper mile marker part time kit. That without hubs price is pretty good. I paid more for mine.
That kit is ok and I have been running it for 4 years in my wifes daily and about 6 months in my trail rig. Had no real problem with it but Mile marker does make a better kit that replaces the whole output section with a solid peice instead of those loking tabs in that kit.
My wifes 79 was converted with a supershit kit. you can tell how much I like them....don't buy one they are junk. I had to replace it with the mile marker kit not long after I bought the truck.
I would not have converted the trail rig except I am running a front locker. otherwise I would have left it alone, kept the tires rotated. Converting them to part time is not very good for them. Those cases are designed to lubricate by the oil slinging off the chain. Some of that oil is caught by a resivior in the tail housing. This oil is then pumped into the tail shaft bearing to lubricate and cool it. Some of the oil travels up a hole in the output shaft to the bearings for the top chain cog. Well that oil drops back into the case. So the end result is if you don't put the case in lock for a few miles about every 200 miles the resivior runs dry and the bearings will run dry and fry it.
When you convert it you need to drive it a couple miles in LOC to get oil into the resivior and the top off the case. get the truck nose down and over fill it. The more it has in it the more that will be able to slosh into the resivior when you take off or go up hills and the safer you are from burning up the bearings.
Also pay VERY close attention to the directions about how to shim the kit. If there is to much end play in the kit it will jump out of LOC and cause wear problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks dude! I'll grab the second one since it's just a trail rig and won't see a ton of milage. And if I understand you - I need to install the kit, install the t-case, then drive it around in lock to lubricate it properly? I don't think I'll have to worry about driving it in lock every couple of months since it will be in lock during most of my trips <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> (it'll never see pavement)

Thanks again man!
 

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Originally posted by brector:
<STRONG>Thanks dude! I'll grab the second one since it's just a trail rig and won't see a ton of milage. And if I understand you - I need to install the kit, install the t-case, then drive it around in lock to lubricate it properly? I don't think I'll have to worry about driving it in lock every couple of months since it will be in lock during most of my trips <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> (it'll never see pavement)

Thanks again man!</STRONG>
No problem then Just get it on trail 9 <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> all the oil will run to the back hahaha
 
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