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yeah that cluster of wires does look familiar. its just hard to believe that the vss wires from the 246 will not carry the signal to the speedo. but i guess thats because those wires carry a signal to the tccm which will get disconnected in order to turn off the stupid service 4wd message?it takes a computer to really screw things up!!
 

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Np246 to Np241 Swap *Writeup* - Page 3

Should answer your questions..... did the swap in the same year hoe. It funtions like factory.... no switches on dash for diff or 4lo tables, all controled by shifter..... even kept the nice center counsel w/o hacking it up.

*edit* After reviewing that link i want to shed some light on the 'service 4wd' message. I found that if the tccm & 246's actuator are disconnected, then a ecm reset (dead battery for a week), the message disappeared and hasn't come back since.
thanks wes, but i dont have any of that ifs crap anymore. i am running a 60 up front!
 

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thanks wes, but i dont have any of that ifs crap anymore. i am running a 60 up front!
Ahh... I see that ! Everything but the front diff actuator should still apply.
 

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yeah that cluster of wires does look familiar. its just hard to believe that the vss wires from the 246 will not carry the signal to the speedo. but i guess thats because those wires carry a signal to the tccm which will get disconnected in order to turn off the stupid service 4wd message?it takes a computer to really screw things up!!
no no no, you ARE using a set of wires that was hooked to the 246. it's just not in that harness that i posted a pic of. its on the other side of the truck in some goofy ass place and you won't notice it if you're not looking. Just trying to save you the time of trying to use the wrong wires.
 

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yeah that cluster of wires does look familiar. its just hard to believe that the vss wires from the 246 will not carry the signal to the speedo. but i guess thats because those wires carry a signal to the tccm which will get disconnected in order to turn off the stupid service 4wd message?it takes a computer to really screw things up!!
See below.

no no no, you ARE using a set of wires that was hooked to the 246. it's just not in that harness that i posted a pic of. its on the other side of the truck in some goofy ass place and you won't notice it if you're not looking. Just trying to save you the time of trying to use the wrong wires.
Actually, the reason there are two sets of purple/green wires on the main NP246 harness is because they're an extension from a connector further up in the truck. If you measure continuity between both plugs, its there. The real plug you need to connect to is mounted on top of the adapter or around there, and as Brian said - it comes off the drivers side downstream O2 sensor harness. Just start at that and follow the harness back. It should be there.

I just did this swap the past weekend and it was straightforward after I found that info. Here's a pic from mine:



You're looking for the connector that is circled in red. Pretty sure its mounted to the fuel line bracket from the factory.
 

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Thanks for that reply, it makes sense to me. I didn't have a chance to get under there today, I was busy working on the wiring at tccm. I got all of that almost completed. I found a driveshaft shop today that will shorten my front shaft. So next week I'm gonna drive my truck over there for that. And yeah dman i remember seeing that plug so it will be easy to change. Thanks for that picture, it helps
 

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Yep, in all my research I never saw that piece so hopefully it helps many people in the future.
 

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You are absolutely correct. I just test drove it and everything works great. Thanks for your help!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while ignoring traffic.
 

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No problem.

I got my TCCM unplugged yesterday (holy crap its wedged way up in there). Now I just need to ground pin F7... but I want to use the shift fork indicator if possible.

I read that for the 3-pin shift indicating NP241s to get the transmission to shift in 4 low, you ground one of the side pins, run the other side pin to the front diff and then run the middle pin to the TCCM plug.

If I am not running the factory front diff, do I just ground either side pin on the t-case then run the middle pin to F7 on the TCCM plug? Or do I ground both side pins? Or do I need to ground a specific one? I assume I can just get under there with a multimeter and shift into 4-lo, but its so damn cold out, I'd like to verify here first.
 

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I simply ran a wire from the f7 pin through a toggle switch on the dash to a ground. So when I put the t-case in 4 low I simply flip the switch and the trans will shift out of first.
 

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Yeah but the transfer case already has a switch on it that engages when in 4 low, so I figure I might as well make it automatically do what I want.

Guess I'll dig into it when it warms up a bit. Still need to make my shift linkage.
 

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Go with a cable shifter, and let me know what you find out about the other switch on the transfer case. From what I've found running an extra toggle switch to ground is the easiest.
 

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I'd be curious to find out if the switch on the t-case will throw the correct current to the f-7 wire.
 

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I'd be curious to find out if the switch on the t-case will throw the correct current to the f-7 wire.
It's grounding it, so I don't see why it wouldn't work.


Also... theres only 10" between my shifter and the np241, no need for a cable shifter.
 

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Are you using a factory floor shifter? I also have a 3" body lift. But I also have a floor shifter and a cable shifter. Still haven't decided for sure which I'm gonna use.
 

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And you are correct if when in 4low the switch throws a negative (grounded) signal it should work perfectly.
 

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Are you using a factory floor shifter? I also have a 3" body lift. But I also have a floor shifter and a cable shifter. Still haven't decided for sure which I'm gonna use.
I bought a factory shifter from a junkyard and just got it installed last night. I too have a 3" bodylift and it looks like all I'll need to do is take a piece of all-thread with some mini-heims on each end and bend it around the fuel lines to get this to work. A straight shot would interfere with the fuel lines. BUT its only 10" apart so a cable shifter is overkill, IMO.

And you are correct if when in 4low the switch throws a negative (grounded) signal it should work perfectly.
That's my thinking. I believe it has been done, just wanted to verify before I brave the cold.

Of course it will be warm this week when I'm down south for work - supposed to be back in the teens when I get back. :rolleyes:
 

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Cool, my only issue with installing the factory floor shifter is I have a full center console that I don't really want to cut up to make the shifter fit. I was thinking about putting the cable shifter inside my center glove box then running the cable through a small hole I would drill through the floorboard hump
 

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Ah yeah, I could see not wanting to cut up anything. I have the jump seat so it fit nicely.

I like your plan, just make sure you can get to it easily.
 

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It would be easy as opening up the glove box shifting gears then closing the glove box. Nice and stealth like!!
 
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