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Safety third!
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Discussion Starter #1
I managed to bust a couple teeth off the input shaft of my T18 the other day, so after literally putting a clutch in a week before, I get to do the job twice. :rolleyes: I'm worried that I'll bust another T18 and I'd like the deeper granny with my doubler anyway, so I'm going to put an NP435 back in after I buy parts, as it needs an input shaft as well.

I'm seeing that there are 2 input shaft lengths for the NP435. The transmission I have has the shorter 9" overall length and there is a 10" overall length that is listed, which correspond to 6.5" and 7.5" stickout respectively.

The truck has a 460 with an aluminum hydraulic bell and the thicker flywheel. I don't have it out yet so I can't measure anything.

Questions:

1) Is the shorter input the proper length for the thicker external balance flywheel that the aluminum bell setup uses?

2) Can the longer one be used with the small pilot bearing? It is cheaper to obtain. (I have 2 spare small bearings, currently using the larger pilot bearing that sits further out near the face of the flywheel)

3) What were the applications or years of production for the two different lengths of input shafts?
 

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Safety third!
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Discussion Starter #3
You should know better. The answers to all your questions are on the Novak website. :flipoff2:
Yeah, read it twice now, and not seeing anything about the different input shafts.

Seriously, if I'm just being a dummy and can't find it, please point out exactly where that is listed.
 

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his transmission is 10.8" long and features an aluminum top cover that is retained by eight bolts. The NP435 case is of cast iron.

The Ford NP435 has a 1-1/16" diameter, ten spline input shaft that has a stick-out of 6-1/2" from the front face of the transmission. The pilot tip of the transmission measures ~17mm. The front bearing retainer flange measures 4.85" and the bearing retainer tube is 1.43" in diameter. The front bolt pattern is the symmetrical Ford "butterfly" pattern; roughly 8-1/2" wide by 6-5/16" tall.

The early Dodge NP435 up through 1968 had a 10 spline, 1" OD input shaft. Dodge units after 1968 have a 23 spline input shaft with an 8-3/8" stickout. The Dodge NP435 featured two different styles of front input shaft & bearing retainer. The earlier and less common style (from 1962-) generally used a deep ball roller bearing input. These earlier units are not compatible with our conversion assemblies. While ball bearing front versions still persisted in some applications, they were rarer after 1969. The more common and later style featured a tapered roller bearing and cup assembly. These later versions are compatible with all of our adapter assemblies.

The GM / Chevrolet NP435 has a 10 spline input shaft with a 6-1/2" stick-out length. This version was only available with the roller style input bearing instead of the later and more common tapered bearing design. None of the GM NP435's are compatible with our adapter assemblies.
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Safety third!
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
How does that answer my question about applications, within the 2 Ford options?

What Ford came with the long input, what came with the short?

The Dodge and GM stuff isn't what I'm comparing here. There are 2 different length 17 spline options for Ford. What came in what?
 

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All the Ford stuff uses the same length. Where are you finding information about another length? I suspect that would be for MDT applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
That's why I'm asking. I'm pretty sure this trans came from an old Bronco, but there's a lot more variations inside these transmissions than I originally thought looking at the parts list, and I want to know if both are usable for my application. If the long one worked with the small pilot I'd just buy that and save a few bucks.

https://www.midwesttrans.com/np435-manual-transmissions/

I came across a couple other retailers that had two listed as well.

The two Ford input lengths both share 1 1/16" OD 10 spline, and both are 17 spline on the inside, so there's not any remarkable difference in strength here. Why I'm wondering if one isn't for special equipment like airport tugs or something, and the 9 1/8" long version is for all vehicle applications.
 

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That's why I'm asking. I'm pretty sure this trans came from an old Bronco, but there's a lot more variations inside these transmissions than I originally thought looking at the parts list, and I want to know if both are usable for my application. If the long one worked with the small pilot I'd just buy that and save a few bucks.

https://www.midwesttrans.com/np435-manual-transmissions/

I came across a couple other retailers that had two listed as well.

The two Ford input lengths both share 1 1/16" OD 10 spline, and both are 17 spline on the inside, so there's not any remarkable difference in strength here. Why I'm wondering if one isn't for special equipment like airport tugs or something, and the 9 1/8" long version is for all vehicle applications.
Call them and ask. Basically nobody measures overall length. The typical length measurement used is bell-housing mounting surface to pilot tip. That's why nobody without a 435 input from a known application in front of them can give you a straight answer.

What is your application? Why do you need something longer than the typical length?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What is your application? Why do you need something longer than the typical length?
Application is mentioned in OP.

I don't need something longer. Like I said, I was seeing if both are compatible, not that I need it longer.

Part of this is curiosity, part is potentially saving a few dollars. I'm just getting the shorter one and if it's wrong I guess I'm waiting on another one. I haven't been able to pull everything to measure the flywheel pilot depths yet so I'm just going to have to go with what's there.
 

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I would bet money that it's stock and they just picked a pressure plate that wouldn't interfere with the bell housing and maybe flipped the friction disc so the hub was offset forward instead of back.

If the T18 is using the stock style bell (or a lakewood bell, or any other bell-housing of the same depth as stock) then it is using the normal 6-and-whatever length stickout that basically every other Ford uses.


Pull it apart and measure the sickout on the T18 if you really care.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I would bet money that it's stock and they just picked a pressure plate that wouldn't interfere with the bell housing and maybe flipped the friction disc so the hub was offset forward instead of back.

If the T18 is using the stock style bell (or a lakewood bell, or any other bell-housing of the same depth as stock) then it is using the normal 6-and-whatever length stickout that basically every other Ford uses.


Pull it apart and measure the sickout on the T18 if you really care.
If I can't find anyone who sells the damn rollers that go between the input and mainshaft, I'm putting a used input back in that piece of shit and calling it a day. This has gone beyond aggravating. Was hoping to gain a little deeper granny low again.

Nevermind. Found some on Egay. I hate ordering shit from 4 different places.

Gonna be $360 into a fucking NP435. :laughing: At least I'll know it's been gone through entirely.


I just can't find these things for sale anymore. They used to be $100 all day long.
 

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I just can't find these things for sale anymore. They used to be $100 all day long.
Try car-part. There's tons of yards that pulled shit in the 90s, stuck it in a warehouse and don't really care how much you pay for it as long as it's more than scrap value plus the labor to go get it and bring it out front for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Try car-part. There's tons of yards that pulled shit in the 90s, stuck it in a warehouse and don't really care how much you pay for it as long as it's more than scrap value plus the labor to go get it and bring it out front for you.


Thanks. Never messed with them but just took a look. Doesn't look too badly sorted out and you don't have to deal with a parts guy not knowing exactly what years or models something came in as long as they have the part model listed. I'm wondering how many of them are willing to ship.

Junkyards around here suck bad these days for a slew of reasons. I'll call but it's always way unreasonable prices for used up shit that has no guarantee anyway, if they even have one. I miss the days when junkyarding was actually fun.

We all know how bad C list has gotten and Facebook Marketplace is getting just as bad.
 

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Thanks. Never messed with them but just took a look. Doesn't look too badly sorted out and you don't have to deal with a parts guy not knowing exactly what years or models something came in as long as they have the part model listed. I'm wondering how many of them are willing to ship.

Junkyards around here suck bad these days for a slew of reasons. I'll call but it's always way unreasonable prices for used up shit that has no guarantee anyway, if they even have one. I miss the days when junkyarding was actually fun.

We all know how bad C list has gotten and Facebook Marketplace is getting just as bad.
I find the best results on car-part by going to the yard's website calling the phone number and saying "hey I found something on car-part, do you want the stock number or the application?" since there's a lot of yards that scrap things and never update their listings.
 

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np435 input

if you still need help with the input issue, give me a call at 612-309-3999...............612-309-3999..p.s. when the 460 came out in a 4x4 (1983) the only 4 speed behind it was a t19.....612-309-3999
 
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