[rfrey]

You guys know anything about these.

I am borrowing one today...while my wifes computer is here. I can't get the port to connect.

The computer says there is something connected to the port, but not the OBD II application.

I need help ASAP

 

[Pin Head]

Ryan,
The built in phone modem is one of the Com ports; usually com2. Try changing the ports: Go to the "communication" pull down menu in the OBD-II software and try Com1-4 one at a time.

 

[Medusa]

My Auto Tap system needs to have the engine running or at least the ignition on before the software will recognize the connection. I don't know what system you are using, but I expect that there must be a signal coming from the Data Ling Connector.

 

[rfrey]

Ok, the car is in the run possition...I know everyting is on. The computer tells the fuel pump to start pumpn'

Still nothing.

PinHead, would you mind calling me at 760-231-9595 or I could call you.

There is no option for me to pick which port. Port one is recognised and so is port 3 the rest are not. But there is no connection made.

In one of your previous posts, you said to make sure the green light is on...there is no green light...that I can see.

Sorry for being a pain. I would seriously say that I am computer literate, and just having some problems.

Thanks.

 

[Pin Head]

Ryan,
I called you but nobody answered, so I left you a message on the 4141 line. Like Jack says there have to be two things right to connect: The data link has to be up and running and you have to have the correct serial port selected. The new software version 323 matches the serial port automatically so it is the one to use.
Go here:

http://www.ghg.net/dharrison/software.htm

Scroll all the way down to the bottom of the screen.
click on the link at the bottom "OBDScan323.exe"
Save it to disk on your desktop.
Double click on its icon after you have finished downloading.
It is only 800K so it won't take long to download even with a phone modem.

Try it on your pickup first as you can expect the data link to work.

Let me know how it works out.

 

[rfrey]

RUN TIME ERROR 76!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This version seems to be better, but what the f***

Can anything go right with this cruiser?

 

[Big DW]

ryan,
I downloaded version 2 and it installed just fine. Try that version, it allows you to select com1-com3...it looks similar to ver. 323 but no runtime error...when you select com1 for your laptop and your cable is connected to the ecm then you will get a green status indicator in the software...I think this will solve your problem...as you can see, my status indicator is yellow because I'm not connected to the ecm...this should work for you...

call me if you need to

Dave

 

[rfrey]

Thanks Dave!
Pin Head also left me a message telling me the same thing...I got it running!!! Well the computer anyway.

Here are the results...However I am not able to get the rig running.


VSW (1st window)

ECU #-10
MIL is OFF
There are 0 trouble codes set


VDW (2nd window)
Calculated load..................0%
Coolent Temp......................57 Deg F
Maniford Absolute Pres.......29.0 INHG
Engine RPM.........................155.25
Speed..................................0 MPH
Ignition Advance..................0 Deg
Intake Air Temp....................53.6 Deg F
Air Flow................................24.4 gm/sec
Gas Mileage.........................0 MPG
Throttle Possition..................39%
O2 Sensor 1 Value............... .065 Volts
O2 Sensor 2 Value................ .625 Volts
O2 Sensor 1b Value............. .1 Volts
O2 Sensor 2b Value............. .435 Volts


I guess I don't get it. Everything looks fine to me...it just doesn't start. Do you guys know if there is another screen I am missing? I was also thinking it had something to to with the VATS (vehicle anti theft system), this doesn't seem to be the case. Next I would speculate that it is clogged injectors. The fuel pump is working I can hear it, and check for gas just before the injectors.

Anybody have any further ideas?

 

[fj40guy]

Engine RPM.........................155.25

Huh?

I have NO idea what you are troubleshooting... but at 155 rpm MOST EFI systems will cut out the fuel. You shouldn't see any pulsing at the injectors.

Are all the GROUND LEADS clean, and hooked up?

Tom :usa:

EDIT: I *THINK* you're hooking up a 5.7 Vortec in the LandCruiser? Hmm, care to give us a run down on the IGNITION system and connections (i.e. bad or missing tach signal). Do you get SPARK when cranking? (use one of those test spark plugs... )

 

[rfrey]

I am trouble shooting a 1996 5.7 Vortec motor.

The ground leads are clean and hooked up. I am sure the ground is fine...because I just checked it.

I am getting spark, I pulled the plug and held it to the block...nice blue light.

I have gas to the throttle body...checked by pushing the valve stem thingy...it squirts gas.

I am not sure the injectors are working properly? I may try and pull them...or try cranking it over a few times and checking for moisture on the tip of the plug...does that sound like it will work?

I would like to know more about the RPM thing. I know all the sensors are plugged in, and there was one lead for a tach, and I hooked that to the gauge.

I don't get it. All I can think of is the clogged injectors.


***Anybody know of a place called "Turn Key..." in Oceanside, CA? Guess these guys specialize in putting vortecs in Cruisers. I would love to get their number, and swing it by them.

 

[fj40guy]

OK... so the 155 rpm is during cranking? Engine never fired up, but you snapped the screen as the engine was cranking over? Is that correct?

There should be a "START" signal to the ECU. Can you confirm such a signal?

No notes here, so just trying to think of the most logical (& frustating) things...

Tom :usa:

 

[rfrey]

Yes, this was during cranking. I did not get much of a reading in the run only position. So, yes...in crank mode. I have not gotten a chance to work on it tonight, but I may just run out there real quick and see what kind of trouble I can get myself into tonight.

 

[kruzrtek]

Still looking for Turnkey's #?

I have dealt with them in the past putting a 2001 5.3 Vortec in cruiser and they seem to be very knowledgeable. their phone is
760-941-2741. site is www.turnkeyenginesupply.com


Good luck and if I can help in any way just pm me!

 

[rfrey]

Thanks for their number and info!!!!!!!!


But, I may have found the problem! Back when I bought this motor, the guy told me "if it doesn't start, check your fuel pressure. This one needs over 60 PSI. TBI's need half that." So, I went and bought a new fuel pump for it. Yes...I beat the guy up when I bought it asking him and his manager over and over what the PSI was on this pump...they could not confirm it...only that it fit a 96 Vortec motor. Well I found an old pressure gauge...***I am assuming any kind will work***I think this one was an old air gauge. The PSI went to 60, and for the purpose intended, I thought that was enough. So, I hooked it up...it read like 32 PSI!

So that's got to be it, right?

 

[Mr McGee]

sounds like you got it figured out!

good luck!

 

[fj40guy]

Doh! Missed it was a CPI (central port injection) system on your 5.7 Vortec. :emb2: I kept thinking you had a TBI, not CPI, system.

Take a look here CPI Trouble shooting

I like the comment "needs 42 psi to just unseat the ball".

Just make sure you use HIGH PRESSURE fuel line (i.e. 250 psi rated) for any rubber line from the pump to the CPI.

Tom :usa:

 

[Medusa]

This seems to be a common occurrance -- auto parts droids insisting that TBI-compatible pumps put out "plenty" of pressure for the Vortecs. My understanding is that once the ball valve is unseated and the engine running, it requires less pressure, but you do have to have enough pressure to get it started and 60 psi is the recommended pressure. I am also sorry I didn't think of this sooner

 

[woody]

curious...in tank pump or external?

Master E2000 is the high pressure external
Master E8153 is the TBI low-pressure external that I used

 

[rfrey]

With my old wire harness, they said I MUST run an internal pump. So I had a tank custom made. Now I find that it doesn't matter, and any fuel cell will work with an external pump

I would say that when I click the key, the pump...only for the slightest second might be hitting 39 PSI...but no more. I am just hoping that Pep Boys will take their $105 pump back...or exchange it.

How frusterating...I have been dealing with this for two weeks now...everyday...hours waisted. I just hope this resolves it. Cross your fingers...I will let you know later today. I do have to get anther part for my fuel line in the mean time...something Pep Boys does not have.

 

[Medusa]

I have used this pump for five years on the '96 5.7L Vortec in my FJ40. It is a bit on the loud side, but provides plenty of pressure and volume.