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just something i have always wondered about and never posted too.

i personally use the fram tuff gaurd. it supposable has a back flow stopper.

does it really do that much or am i paying more for something that doesn't really work.

there are some cool features to the fram, nice grippy stuff and it fits!
<IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0">
 

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The toyota filter has the back flow stopper...I always use toyota filters...
 

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Originally posted by beasttoyota4x4:
<STRONG>how much do toyota filters cost for a 22re usually?</STRONG>
'bout fo fity, with my club discount, otherwise about 6 smakers.

Use the yota brand. I used frams and they suck arse!
 

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I WISH I could find the artile I read once. It was by a mechanical engineer who got bored and just bought one of every brand and cut them apart.

He rated the FRAM last in about every category. ACDelco and Motorcraft scored high, as did most all of the other 'Factory' brands - especially the Japanese ones.
 

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Originally posted by MasterYota:
<STRONG>I WISH I could find the artile I read once. It was by a mechanical engineer who got bored and just bought one of every brand and cut them apart.

He rated the FRAM last in about every category. ACDelco and Motorcraft scored high, as did most all of the other 'Factory' brands - especially the Japanese ones.</STRONG>
We did this in High School shop class back in 84. Fram was the worst. Purolater just above Fram, ACDelco and Motocraft next and WIX being the best. I believe WIX is the current maker of the NAPA gold oil filters.
 

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stick with the toyota ones. way better quality.
 

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okay

i have been converted. i give in, fram must suck.

i'm just to lazy to drive up there to get the toyota filters.

ar the ac delco okay, and do they have a anti flow back valve?

or just get off my lazy arse and go to toyota? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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i just changed my oil and filter wednesday.

i'm screwed for the next 3000 miles!
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/ghost.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
 

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Here's a link to Pappy's website. he's done a ton of work here. Hope he can chime in with more info. Oil Filter Study
WHOA here. I didn't do all that much, just offer some personal opinions. I do reference the Oil Filter Study, which I recommend you visit and read with an open mind.

Run Toyota filters, they cost me $3.94 at the dealer (TLCA discount). The old TLC filter is larger, but costs $12 at the dealer. The USA 22re filters are made by Puralator and the filter has PureOne codes on it. I haven't cut one open, mostly cuz they cost a fortune.

One comment. I did cut open the new Tundra/TLC filter (made by Denso). It's a new type of filter using a resin material instead of paper pleats. Kind cool. It does bolt on to the 22re.
 

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I run the Purolator Pure One that is the same size as the PH8A. The Pure One DOES have a anti-drain back valve in it.

[ 08-10-2001: Message edited by: NavyDood ]
 

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All you guys that have FRAM filters on your trucks need to go home RIGHT NOW, take them off and throw them in the trash! They are JUNK! Do NOT use them on your engines!

I helped a fellow faculty member here slice open a bunch of oil filters on a lathe, for his Engine Maintenance class. We did a couple of FRAMs, a Toyota OEM, Ford OEM (Autolite), GM OEM (Delco), Dodge OEM (Mopar), Nissan OEM, Honda OEM, then a bunch of other off-the-shelf filters (NAPA, Purolator, WIX, etc.).

First, EVERY filter on that we cut open has an anti-drainback valve built into it. Oh, except for the Delco, but it was designed for the Camaro V8 engine, which mounts the filter threads-up, so it doesn't drain anyway. I think I also heard that this engine has the anti-drainback valve built in to the filter mount. You can see the anti-drainback valve in any oil filter, it's the rubber flapper thingy that's just on the other side of the ring of holes that surround the center hole. The other component that every filter has is a blow-by valve, that basically puts the filter in by-pass mode if it should become blocked. I guess the thinking is that it's better to bypass the filter and still have lubrication than to have the filter clog up, burst, and pump all your oil onto the ground.

The question with the Anti-drainback valve is whether or not it WORKS. The FRAM is very poorly made, does not seal well, and in fact will likely not seal AT ALL.

The other problem that we noticed with the FRAMs was where the paper pleats were glued to the endcaps on the internal filter assembly. All of the other filters used metal endcaps, and had a string tied around the pleats to keep them from expanding. The endcaps in the FRAM are flimsy cardboard, poorly glued, and there was no string around the center.

The Toyota OEM filter was very well made, on par with the others, although the new pleat pattern they use adds a lot of surface area to the actual filtering membrane. I would say that all the other filters were fine, I would have no trouble running them on my engines.

It totally escapes me how some people will spare no expense on the latest mods for their trucks, yet they will save a measly $1 on an oil filter, which is an extremely important component in the health of your engine. Buy and use the Toyota OEM filters. They are worth it. If you get on the dealer's mailing list, they often send out mailings with coupons that you can buy filters for $3.99 or so. Also, if you buy them by the case of 12, they will likely give you a break on the price.

Oh, the 22R/RE and the 3VZ-E V6 engines use the same filter.
 

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crap, spank my hand,

oh and the fram i use costs 4 dollars. <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0">
 
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