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I am doing a favor for my neighbor and replacing his oil pan gasket and his clutch. I am pulling the trans first so I can get the flywheel out and resurfaced. The shop wants a full day to resurface it, I know thats nuts but as long its done right I dont care. I want to do the pan while waiting. I dont think I should have a problem pulling the motor mounts and hanging the engine by the cherry picker only. I dont see any issues with this.

My questions are 1. I want to use Ford parts, is there better gaskets or clutches in the aftermarket. This is only a DD and never used to haul anything and the owner is an older guy that I know he doesnt abuse it. I wanna make sure it doesnt fail and I have not have good luck on my cars with alot of cheaper stuff from Napa and autozone. So now I always use the dealer for my stuff. I am just trying to save the guy some money but dont want it to come back to bite me in the ass cuz of some cheap shit.

2 How much does this cost to get done at a local garage or dealer? I was trying to do this for next to nothing for him but he is dead set on paying me. If he is going to pay something I want to make sure its not more than half of the price from a garage or dealer. I am just trying to help him out and I know I can knock this out pretty quick.
 

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what kind of truck ? 2wd 4x4 ??

and i use napa clutches ( valio and sachs - both good ) and the day turn on the flywheel is high ( it takes a few min. ) but if they are buisy


most clutch jobs are near 5 hour ( again what kind of truck )








give me the truck and ill list labor times
 

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First off, I don't think this belongs in the Ford off-road forum, and not even newbie off-road forum. This belongs on another site, or in chit chat as it has nothing to do with the subject of this forum.

I am doing a favor for my neighbor and replacing his oil pan gasket and his clutch. I am pulling the trans first so I can get the flywheel out and resurfaced. The shop wants a full day to resurface it, I know thats nuts but as long its done right I dont care. I want to do the pan while waiting. I dont think I should have a problem pulling the motor mounts and hanging the engine by the cherry picker only. I dont see any issues with this.
You need to be sure it really is just the oil pan gasket that is leaking. Most times its valve covers, front or rear seal, or timing cover joint with oil pan running down looking like its the oil pan gasket. Not sure what year or engine you have, but changing the oil pan gasket only may give you a new issue with the timing cover joints. Unless you are certain the rear seal is fine, you won't be doing him a favor unless you change that too. The rear will not add much work, the front will add another 3 or 4 hours, or more depending on your skill level.


My questions are 1. I want to use Ford parts, is there better gaskets or clutches in the aftermarket. This is only a DD and never used to haul anything and the owner is an older guy that I know he doesnt abuse it. I wanna make sure it doesnt fail and I have not have good luck on my cars with alot of cheaper stuff from Napa and autozone. So now I always use the dealer for my stuff. I am just trying to save the guy some money but dont want it to come back to bite me in the ass cuz of some cheap shit.
I've never used anything other than parts store clutches, and if you get the right size disc, and install it correctly with a new pressure plate, throwout bearing and resurfaced flywheel, there should be no problem. Also look at the clutch fork and its pivots, or slave cylinder and its hose and fittings. Luck is not required, nor should it be relied on in this circumstance. You may also want to check on the entire kit cost, which comes with a resurfaced flywheel before you chunk out too much change on resurfacing. Off the top of my head, I want to say $200 to $250 for everything including alignment tool by Luk. Be carefull on disc size. Ford has 10", 10.5" 11" and 12" clutches, and many auto parts stores have trouble getting the right ones. Be sure the new disc and plate match the old one perfectly regardless if they bolt right or not. Too small of disc will wear out fast.


2 How much does this cost to get done at a local garage or dealer? I was trying to do this for next to nothing for him but he is dead set on paying me. If he is going to pay something I want to make sure its not more than half of the price from a garage or dealer. I am just trying to help him out and I know I can knock this out pretty quick.
Surely you can get a quote(estimate) from a local dealer and other garages, but if you charge him more than $100 for your labor you are not giving him a deal. Of course a garage is going to charge 3 to 4 times that, but he's going to get a proffesional job, a warranty, and their not trying to do him a favor. If all goes well, you can always refuse to take any money, or a lower amount if you really are looking out for this guy. He's going to be out a couple hundred in parts already.

Edit: Forgot to mention, if you don't torque the flywheel correctly, you can cause a rear seal leak whether new seal or old.
 

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First off I agree this is a some what basic question but I am looking for parts that will last. I figured if anyone has used more clutches you guys would be the one that would know what lasts and what doesnt. Also you answered most of the stuff i didnt think to ask that a newbie board wouldnt. I have several trucks that I off road and abuse and I dont use cheap autozone clutches as I have had them fail on 2 different trucks under easy trail use (springs or rubber bushings falling out). I rather spend the money the first time and do it once.

I am a professional technician by trade so he is getting a good job done once that will last and I told him if it EVER fails I will replace it, this is why I dont want to use cheap stuff. He is a good neighbor that never complains about the junkyard of parts and my 9 trucks at my house so I guess this is to stay on his good side. He told me that he got several qoutes for $1600-1900 for the job and thats when I told him I would do it for free for him. I am not looking to make money but I was surprized ever though I work for a dealership at the cost of these repairs, thats why I asked. He is getting the full works with everything getting replaced. I gotta ask about the year and motor but its a 92-96 F150 with a V8 4x4.
 

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I am a professional technician by trade so he is getting a good job done once that will last and I told him if it EVER fails I will replace it, this is why I dont want to use cheap stuff. He is a good neighbor that never complains about the junkyard of parts and my 9 trucks at my house so I guess this is to stay on his good side. He told me that he got several qoutes for $1600-1900 for the job and thats when I told him I would do it for free for him. I am not looking to make money but I was surprized ever though I work for a dealership at the cost of these repairs, thats why I asked. He is getting the full works with everything getting replaced. I gotta ask about the year and motor but its a 92-96 F150 with a V8 4x4.
:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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a 94 f150 4x4 with the 5.0


clutch disk
5 spd 5.9 hours
4 spd 5.2 hours

oil pan gasket
auto 6.6 hours
man 6.9 hours



and i forgot to list luk as a good clutch too - just get a new one not a reman
 

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If I were a proffesional technician, I would have went to a local auto parts store, a National auto parts store, and the OEM and looked at what they had to offer for myself, along with inquiring about price and warranty information, then I would have made the decision based on my own personal experience rather than ask a bunch people I didn't know from Adam what they thought.

If I were a proffesional technician, and had changed as many clutches as you claim to have, I would already know what the going labor rate was locally, and have a darn good idea of how long it was going to take me to do the job. I'm not sure why this even matters though, because you stated you wanted to do it for free to save the old guy some money. If he insists on paying you, and you don't want to insult him, but you really are as generous as you claim, then I'm sure an arbitrary figure could be reached that has nothing to do with what a dealer or garage would gouge the guy for.

As far as clutches, the market pretty much knows that they are highly inaccessible, labor intensive items, and there's not going to be much junk out there. If they offer a premium brand with a much better warranty, then obviously there's a quality related reason for that, and if funds allows for it, that is probably a better choice. Again, I would look at what all is available to me and at what price, and then I would decide. As far as higher quality aftermarket clutches, they are pricey, and are for much higher performance than what you have described will be the use here. I do respect your admiration for OEM parts, and I do recommend using them when economy allows, but you must be sure there is actual value to the highly inflated price. Sometimes there is, and sometimes there just isn't.

As far as your clutches failing, I would be more inclined to believe they were undersized, overloaded(from high gearing), or started out with a bad plate or wheel surface(or both), or had slippage from oil leaks or what not. You just don't hear that much about premature clutch failures when the time is taken to cover all the bases in such a time consuming and intrusive task such as this. If you have found a cheap line of junk, then steer clear from it from now on.
 
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