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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I haven’t posted in quite awhile but that didn’t mean I wasn’t busy. Here is the latest crazy RZR build that has been over a year in the making but put on fast forward.

2014 RZR XP100 power plant
2015 skeleton of a frame and then a whole lot of fabrication
Lots and lots of aftermarket parts

A little humor to start with my fake Amazon plate


Starting with the gen2 SuperATV GDP Portals because I wanted to try something different than a go fast build with a power plant that is basically obsolete when compared to all the turbo cars.





These things are beef!

The ground clearance is amazing too! Here are a couple shots at full bump at the front and rear of the car.



Here are a couple at ride height. Almost the same belly clearance as my friends Jeep on 40’s.



All these measurements were taken on 34” bias Super Swampers




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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I worked out a chassis on Solidworks and made about 6 versions before I arrived at something I liked and started bending up the tube to make a chassis out of the 2015 frame skeleton I got. Here are a couple pics of the front and rear tires at full bump on the basic chassis.



I took the frame cutting farther than the last chassis I did by removing the center of the stock shock mount tube both front and rear. This allowed me to run a single tube straight through at the front and rear shock mounts without adding a bunch weight from double wall tubing.

A few more as the chassis starts to take shape.



I wanted to keep everything as low as possible with a safe but short cage for better crawling and to make sure it would fit in my trailer. All that awesome belly clearance that is so great on obstacles could make the car too tall to fit under the happyjack bed in my toyhauler. The goal was to keep the car below 72” at ride height while ensuring at least 4” from my helmet to the nearest tube.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180828/cb6e3217fef8a0608b3e9361e247

To do that I had to make a custom fuel tank again. This time I decided to do two separate tanks because the single large tank was a serious pain to make and get in and out of the car. This was also my first big TIG project where I did all the welding. This did sacrifice some volume but the two tanks still hold a total of 12 gal which is enough to give significantly better range than the stock 9.5 gal.

I started with some wood mockups to make sure there was enough clearance around everything and I wanted to use the as a jig to hold the aluminum together while I tacked them up.
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180828/e755613ab556be9f61e5a342a9e4b046.jpg

The fuel plate flange on the last tank was different to weld because of the joint design so I did that differently this time as well. My friend was kind enough to turn and mill out a billet neck with a step joint on the underside that allowed a fillet weld where the tank top couldn’t pull away from the flange as it was welded. Once the underside was welded I flipped it over and welded the topside. It didn’t need it as the bottom made a seal but I need practice and had fun duty cycling my TIG getting all the heat into that slab of billet. I used a lot of propane too to get it preheated.



It turned out pretty good and passed air pressure testing when the tanks were fully burned in. I only had one pinhole leak per tank that I had grind out and reweld. My welds still leave much to be desired but that will take a lot more practice, which is hard when I have a full time desk job.





The drivers tank finished at 5 gallons and the passenger tank ended at 7 gallons. I put -10 AN fittings on the back for the cross over at the bottom of the sumps and 1/4” rollover vent valves at the top of each tank. The vent valves have nice thermoplastic melt sleeves that seal the ball bearing and vent in the event of a fire/roll. I found this out by accident with one that I screwed in while the bung was pretty hot and ruined it.

Here is a shot of the -10 cross over hose and sumps from below. Could have gone smaller and it would have worked fine.



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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Keep it coming man! this is awesome


Here ya go!


On with the build. I sure wish I could get as much done each day as I am posting up! With some fuel and a nice low cage, I started on the keynote feature of this build that drove the name. The hood and grill. I love 20s-40s vehicles and proposed a 30’s Ford truck in the RZR reincarnation build a couple years ago but nixed it because of the cost for a glass replica body. In this build I came to a solution that would have the flavor of one of these vintage trucks without the $5k plus for a fiberglass body that would get destroyed the first time I put this thing on it’s lid. So roll in some rock bouncer with an exposed cage for durability, stir up a $250 garage sale 37 Ford fiberglass hood, hammer in some rat rod and bend up a crazy custom grill and you have the Old Timer. In a custom license plate format OLD TMR and for Instagram #oldtmr.





In case you are wondering, I don’t own a roll bender but figured out how to emulate the effect with properly spaced small bends. I scrapped the first one but got the next two right. I liked it, so then I did the same thing to make the bumper. I did have to up to 0.120 wall to keep the tubing smooth. 0.100 left indications from each bend. The individual grill pieces were done with a quick and dirty jig so I could hand bend a bunch and weld them on.



I struggled for awhile on the top of the cage but finally came up with a solution that triangulated the cage, stayed far enough away from my head and would keep boulders out when one happens to go wrong side up.

Tries one and two, good triangulation but too close to my head. The opposite direction was also done and was better for taking a hit on the A pillar but I didn’t snap a pic of it.



Try three, the winner. Lots of head room to account for harness slop and body movement in a roll, a much smaller “hole” in the roof for stuff to try and joint me in the cab and pretty good triangulation for hits from any direction.








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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Let’s help #oldtmr let out the spent gases with a surplus Gibson chambered 6” round muffler from my friend’s Jeep and a 2.5” mandrel U bend exhaust fitting. RZR specific mufflers are stupid expensive when pretty much any automotive muffler will get the job done. I will also comment that Alba Racing had some interesting thoughts about glass packed and chambered muffler use on these cars. They state that the continuous high rpm with CVTs blows out glass packs rapidly and only recommend chambered designs. I experienced that first hand with my stock muffler that blew most of the packing into the spark arrestor and clogged it up with less than 1000 miles on it.



I have learned that the exhaust on the RZR is stupid hot and lots of thought has to go into the mounts so they don’t melt! Which reminds about another recall I just received for this thing that is totally irrelevant, lol, and all the plastic on the stock machine near the exhaust is a really bad idea. I made these as long as possible and then drilled them out to reduce the amount of cross section to transfer heat to the silicone bushings. Combine that with air flow around and through the holes and the heat transfer has been substantially reduced. I ran it hard for hours and they didn’t get soft or melt. In the past, with an inferior design I melted them in less than 30 minutes. See the reincarnation thread if you are curious. I also don’t like the silly spring ball setup and prefer to weld on v bands for a solid leak free connection. You will have to ignore my elementary TIG skills. The exhaust was the perfect thing to practice on and it doesn’t matter too much what it looks like, unlike the cage.



One the subject of hot, something has to keep the heat away from the intake so I bent up a simple heat shield and mounted it with some rivet nuts. The stock heat shield fit, so I slapped it on for a little extra insulation. It all goes with my rat rod recycling theme.





The stock spark arrestor slips right into the outlet and keeps this exhaust legal for the USFS.



It has been too long for me to remember how loud the stock exhaust was but this one doesn’t seem to bad, although I would actually prefer a very quiet machine. Better for stealth out in the forest. Loud just gets obnoxious after several hours.





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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Let’s focus on the portals some more and graduate this beast to 4 tires!

It is always fun to check all the clearance at full bump to make sure nothing gets destroyed when this baby gets worked. Builds always look cool bottomed out and I can’t get over all the clearance on the bumps! Some custom suspension mounts and this car could have significantly more wheel travel without plowing into the ground. Anyone have a Can-Am, LOL.




The front shock clearance to the frame is solid with tons of room.


The rear shocks and trailing arms also don’t have any issues.



Radius rod clearance on the upper rod at the portal is tight, aftermarket rods will have to be carefully evaluated...


Frame side is good to go


And one more shot from the front with some old school 7” headlight buckets modified to run sideways. The rat rod look is coming together.







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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
A bunch of details and more recycling for #oldtmr.

I thought about the hood mounting for a long time and considered Jeep style latches, hood pins, ratchet straps, and finally settled on a pair of rubber bungee cords as a super simple rat rod method to go with in the spirit of the leather straps used in the early days of the automobile.



At the back, I have always been fond of stake beds and wood sides so I took a 2x10 and hacked on it, beat it up, and then oiled it to give a vintage style for the bed with the added bonus that these could actually be used as sand ladders if needed.



The finished look is starting to come together with some seats and the nearly finished chassis.



I recycled the stock steering system but always hated the slop in the tilt mechanism so I hard mounted it and went to a quick release wheel.





The fuel pump sits nicely between the taper in the seats. There isn’t a lot of room in the cockpit, even with a wider cab than the stock RZR, so a lot of thought goes toward component placement.



I started with the shifter in the stock location but I didn’t really like it there so I ended up moving it to the dash. Here is the original mount and how tight it fit between the seats. This also shows the seat mounts and how I used the seats to hold down the fuel tanks. No reason to add more steel when the seat frame provides two perfect crossbars for each tank.



Here is the final shifter location with a piece of chain welded together for some style, the stock shifter was was too boring. I recycled the grab bar from the RZR but I am still undecided on something with a little more style. I like the steering close to me but the deep dish on the steering wheel was too close so I cut the wheel up and turned it into a flat mount which goes with the character of the build.





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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
you are doing an awesome job....can't wait to see some videos of this in action


Thank you and good reminder on getting some video. I am not as good about doing that. I’ll get a walk around of the finished car to start.


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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I struggled for awhile with doors, swing direction and tubing in the area or no doors on Old Timer. Here are a few shots with nothing, duct tape mock, tube, and what I finally settled on for the first set of doors I have ever made. I have mostly done trucks in the past that already have them.

Nothing


Tube diagonal only (had flat for door latch)


Duct tape, which I liked enough to go for it.


Tacked together doors and diagonals.


Fully skinned and better looking than duct tape. Fully removable too.


Not much to talk about with the skins because they are just flat scraps with 1/4 turn fasteners. I am still a rookie with tin work but here are a few new things, for me, with this body.

A hole saw plus a hammer made this rolled edge for the fuel cap access that stiffened it up and eliminated any sharps around the cap.


I used my newly acquired TIG skills to make the recessed panels that break up the flat side panels and allow air flow over the voltage regulator and shock reservoirs.


Some punch flare work, a very basic dash, and experimental work with the freebie harbor freight bead roller (super crappy and now saving for one worth owning)


Switching to steel for some rock slider filler panels with some grip.



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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
so whens it going up for sale? I want to be first in line :laughing:



the bungee's gotta go - that doesn't look "rat rod" but more ghetto instead :flipoff2:


So you know me well, it’s never finished and always for sale!

Wouldn’t be Pirate without some unfiltered feedback. Guess I should have made the body out of smashed beer cans riveted together and made the steering wheel out of brazed rat skulls.

Here is what it looked like before it got blown apart for paint, wiring and final assembly.







With my least favorite part out of the way, reassembly underway



GDP Portals plus 34” tires equals destroyed steering without some reinforcement and Sandcraft called me up with a special price for their new steering stabilizer so I went for it. The only other viable option, in my opinion, is the Shock Therapy rack which is absolute beef but also 2x the price. The difference is bump steer and the portals already trash the scrub radius so why not.

It would be killer if a company designed a car around portals, maximized the wheel travel increase they offer and eliminate the slightly messed up steering geometry.





The stupid aluminum bodied Walker shocks seized during the build, the stock springs are total garbage, and they were already showing significant wear from the coil sliders with a whopping 1000 miles on them. Kartek had these nice Fox IBP, dual rate compression shocks with quality springs for a good price and they are a vast improvement, starting with the size. 3” rears and 2.5” fronts with huge reservoirs.





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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Assembly continued.

The CVT intake is made with a 3” to 4” silicone reducer, two hose clamps, a piece of hogged out 4” aluminum tubing with a bead roll and an Outwears prefilter, just like stock but less restrictive.



Some nylon spacers, machine screws and lock nuts mount the computer as high as possible between the seats.



Fuel pump plumbing with Russell hose/fittings and venting the fuel tanks as far away from the engine as possible. The plastic connection to the fuel pump is pretty wimpy so I tied the fuel line down to keep it as secure as possible.



While I was at the Mint 400 this year I picked up a sponsorship from Lazerstar lights. This is a first for me. They sent over this universal wire controller with a mini push button controller along with all the other lighting for the car. This is the first time I have used one of these style relay controllers. The instructions were clear and each output was well labeled so hookup was simple with no drama. The kit came with plenty of cable length and the controller is very compact, bonus! Six full size switches would have been a challenge to fit in the space I have. The controller is backlit and comes with a good selection of decals to identify each switch.

Here is the cockpit with the controller, factory speedo, switches, and the winch controls.



Cockpit all powered up with the backlit controller



The controller is wired to a matching six output relay module that is mounted remotely in the location of your choice within the length of the control leads which are really long. In my case it is on the firewall next to the winch controller. Each circuit is fused making it safe to tie the power side straight to the battery, which I did because of the potential power draw. The RZR stator isn’t known for its exceptional power output. I wired the relay module to the ignition accessory power so everything is off if the ignition is off. For this car, dealing with the long leads was actually a bit of a pain because everything is so close together. On a full size vehicle or in a different mounting arrangement it wouldn’t be an issue.

Here is a picture of the relay module next to the winch controller on the firewall.


To complete the wiring I recycled the stock accessory power block and used most of it for all the ground leads from the lights. I also went with a compact Odyssey battery that won’t spill any acid like the stock one and it is a deep cycle version so it can handle the winch and electrical load.



I’ll get to all the lights in the next update.




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nice roach.
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This thing just gets better and better. Can't wait to see pics on the trail. Clean work as always sir! :grinpimp:
 
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