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Fab Junky
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Discussion Starter #21
Starting with the light bar, a curved rectangular bar would be the easiest but I didn’t think it would look right with the rest of the build so I decided to use fourteen 10W LXLED lights with 10 spots and 4 floods. The upside is the ability to aim each one for the exact pattern I want or replace individual lights if some get creamed in a roll.

I really like how the round lights look on the car.




Wiring all of them up was great fun versus a single pair for a light bar but it turned out pretty clean with the supplied Deutsch connectors and pigtails.


Out back they sent these really bright billet shorty rigid mount LED lights. Lazerstar custom mated a polished ring with a black body to match the headlight buckets for Old Timer. Sweet!



These are hurt your eyes bright when the brakes are on, this is just the running brightness


For a night crawl, I mounted an amber iStar LED Pod on each corner with some rivet nuts, allen screws and a rubber tubing adapter they sell for them. The basic kit includes a flat rubber mount.
Fronts


Rears


Rock lights on


Finally, I mounted a pair of the white iStar Pod lights up top for reverse and work around the bed and back of the car.





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Fab Junky
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Discussion Starter #22
More miscellaneous little things, starting with the recessed mount at the base of the passenger seat for the tool bag.



The muffler heat shield with the recycled stock one bolted down under it along with the spare tire mount/truck bed frame



I bent up a mini truck bed using my freebie harbor freight bead roller and some hand bending against my welding table. I will be looking for a proper bead roller soon because I love what can be done with one. 5052 is really nice to work with and I experimented with more bends than I have ever done in a single part. It stiffened up nice and has folded edges where the spare tire strap locations are.



34” spare fits with no problem, or one can run without the spare and have room to strap down quite a bit of cargo. I left room around the airbox for a future UMP upgrade and to let the heat out from the engine. No shortage of flow around the rear of this car





The stock upper ball joints have the flange on the wrong side of the a-arm which puts all of the suspension load on the snap ring. Frap makes them correct and puts the flange on the bottom so they stay put. My stock ones were about to blow out and had bent snap rings. Polaris just wanted one part number for all four joints instead of taking the extra step to do it right.



SuperATV recommendations 4/3 wheels but with careful selection I believed 5/2 or even 5/1 wheels would clear everything while keeping the car 2-4” narrower, reducing the steering load and keep the portals mostly inside the wheel so they don’t drag in the mud. These 5/2 wheels cleared but required careful attention to the brake line routing. I added a line clamp on the portal adapter to ensure the brake line would not get into the wheel where it would be quickly destroyed. This is the best picture I could get, which is still a little hard to judge the clearance, it is about 3/4”.



With the heavy weight of the portal/34” tire combo, I decided it would be best to run limit straps on the car to eliminate direct shock loading while airborne. These Sandcraft straps did the trick and I also swapped all the suspension bolts for ones that ride fully on the shank of the bolt (I was lazy and just ordered the kit from Sandcraft), again because of the higher load on from the portals. I have not upgraded the radius rods and that will be a future project to punch everything out to 12mm and upgrade to some high strength radius rods. One caution with the limit strap kits, most of them will contact the tire at full lock on the front lower shock mount with deep backspaced wheels (like stock ones). The huge offset from the portals eliminates that interference.



I mentioned the Sandcraft steering brace early but the picture didn’t show it very well and I did not address the process for installation. Here are better shots showing how crowded the front end gets with the steering brace, winch mount, winch, plumbing, wiring, and cooling! There is a very specific sequence necessary to get it all together and naturally it took me four tries before got it right.

The first time I mounted the steering adapter to the rack without the winch plate simultaneously and couldn’t get the winch plate into the car.

The second time I got them both in together only to realize I couldn’t install the winch mounting bolts for the winch.
The third time I used the forward winch hole pattern for the winch mounting bolts and the winch contacted the radiator fan.

I got it right on the forth time of uninstalling everything to install it. So to summarize, first mount the winch to rear bolt pattern on winch plate (for my Warn winch), winch plus winch plate plus steering stabilizer (stripped) into the car as one hard to handle “assembly”, connect the rack to the steering stabilizer, and finish with the tie rods. None of this was in the instructions but should be.

Winch bolt clearance to the stabilizer is very tight. I also had to use a 90 degree grease fitting to get the stabilizer lubed up. My straight greaser would not lock up.



General idea of all the “stuff” packed into the front.








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loving it

I personally think multiple round lights are the way to go. You can aim them where you want to get a nice wide spread. The light bars just dot put out a wide enough pattern for me personally.

This is the way to build a sxs, with the parts you want and the way you want. Instead of trying to stuff things into or on top of just to carry what you want. Good job
 

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limit straps on the front too? I run only fronts with my portals, not worried about the rear for the wheeling we do up here in the PNW. lift the front tires WAY more than the rears.

also, if you ever upgrade a arms in the future, the SCR stabilizer will not work with upper a arms that have a cross bar for support. I ended up buying SATV arms and removed the crossbar. what a pain that lesson was

SATV says 4.5" backspacing max but i'm running the #raceline double beadlocks with 5.375 backspace with no issues.

love the build brother - love the rzr platform but hate that it is so common/copied. yours is truly one of a kind! :smokin::smokin:
 

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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
limit straps on the front too? I run only fronts with my portals, not worried about the rear for the wheeling we do up here in the PNW. lift the front tires WAY more than the rears.



also, if you ever upgrade a arms in the future, the SCR stabilizer will not work with upper a arms that have a cross bar for support. I ended up buying SATV arms and removed the crossbar. what a pain that lesson was



SATV says 4.5" backspacing max but i'm running the #raceline double beadlocks with 5.375 backspace with no issues.



love the build brother - love the rzr platform but hate that it is so common/copied. yours is truly one of a kind! :smokin::smokin:


Yes, limit straps on all 4 corners. Great tip on the front a-arms. I had not thought about that but is immediately obvious with your comment. While we are on the subject of a-arms, the astute observer may have noticed some of the pics have black a-arms and some have silver. I briefly put a set of forward mount arms on the car but had a lengthy conversation with Long Travel Industries about pretty much everything and did some suspension cycling which verified a bumpsteer issue he brought up (terrible with names but I think it was Brian). Great guy and I am a firm believer in his radius rods. I am not a fan of any with heims. I lost count of how many heims I saw bent at KOH both times I went. His have a welded uniball cup and uniball on both ends. They are not adjustable but that really doesn’t matter for about anyone.

I took toe measurements at bump, ride, and droop with the forward mount arms followed by the stock ones. The summary is that the forward mount arms had ~1.6” of toe change (combined, not each tire) through the cycle and the stock had ~0.5” of toe change. If going through a mud pit is all you do this really doesn’t matter. I decided it was too much for my taste and took them off. I will be selling them at some point. I am also pretty sure the steering stabilizer is adding a little toe change/bump steer because the inner pivot is moved out from stock a little bit but I have not had time to pull the front apart and cycle it with the old stripped shocks. The stock rack would never survive so it was this or the much more expensive option, the Shock Therapy rack.

For kicks, here is the tire clearance at full lock with the stock arms and the 34” tires.

To the frame, plenty!


To the front bumper, plenty. Pretty sure 37” tires would fit for the mudders out there without additional lift.


And some more random stuff, like the nice PRP seats with removable seat bottoms with mesh below them so the seat doesn’t turn into a bucket for dirt and water.




A small debris blocker to keep junk out of the radiator along with a good shot of the Factor 55 winch lead, which I love.


Fuse access through the drivers side panel behind the door


Quick release steering wheel and PRP belts to match the seats.



Last, I got my favorite slogan made up in a sticker a pasted on the back “bumper”






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Fab Junky
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Discussion Starter #29
I took the car out and make sure everything was it good shape before going into the fall show circuit for Lazerstar Lights.



Why portals, here is a good example of the awesome ground clearance. The 34’s get swallowed in the rut but the skid plate doesn’t even come close to touching. I was trying to scratch the belly of this car and it is not easy to do.



The CG is really low with everything put as low as possible inside the car and it shows in this huge tripod.



A good shot of the customized Factory UTV skidplates from that wheel stand. I was actually trying to see if I could get it to flop over and it wouldn’t do it. I am impressed with the performance.



It is never finished but here a few pics I took right before heading out to the Sand Sport Super Show.












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Fab Junky
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Discussion Starter #33
Awesome build!



I can see the advantage of the portals but what are you giving up with them?


A bit of top speed, added unsprung weight (actually good for crawling), narrow width of car (could be a good thing), 4 more things to change the oil in, higher stress on the steering/suspension and what Joe said about turning radius. Like everything there are pros and cons. The good include reduced driveline stress, amazing ground clearance, ability to run much bigger tires, stability, low end power when running any tire smaller than a 37 (that is where I calculated the reduction equals the original gear ratio).


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A bit of top speed, added unsprung weight (actually good for crawling), narrow width of car (could be a good thing), 4 more things to change the oil in, higher stress on the steering/suspension and what Joe said about turning radius. Like everything there are pros and cons. The good include reduced driveline stress, amazing ground clearance, ability to run much bigger tires, stability, low end power when running any tire smaller than a 37 (that is where I calculated the reduction equals the original gear ratio).


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are you going to touch the clutching? I have left mine stock (run 33x10.5 tires in the summer) for now but I have 37x12.5's for the snow and can see running into belt slippage when the snow gets deep and soft
 

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Fab Junky
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498 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
Stock right now with the same size tire too, now that I have the GBC Terra Masters. It was ok with the 34’s and I expect the 33’s will have a little more bottom end snap but 37’s might need some work. I calculated them as the break even point for gearing but they are a lot heavier than a 29. I am also at 7500 ft and might need it for the altitude. I have a Fuel clutch cover waiting to go on but didn’t have time before the show season. Clutch work and the cover would all be done at the same time for obvious reasons.


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Awesome build. I am inspired for sure!

Any idea of weight?

For bigger tires and crawling you could also swap the gear set from a Ace in to it for some reduction.
 

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Fab Junky
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Discussion Starter #39
Awesome build. I am inspired for sure!



Any idea of weight?



For bigger tires and crawling you could also swap the gear set from a Ace in to it for some reduction.


I will get the weight after I bring it back from SEMA, I am curious what it came out as. The car stayed in CA between the shows.


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Fab Junky
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Discussion Starter #40
Still haven’t gotten the weight but here is a string of updates.

I haven’t done a great job keeping this up to date, especially after looking at the pics with the swampers. First, I strongly advise against running any truck tires on a SXS. Many others have said this and I should have followed their advice. They work great on trucks but not on a RZR. Way to heavy and the sidewalks are way to stiff. This resulted in poor acceleration and very poor breaking performance while riding like rocks. This was immediately obvious when I mounted up some 33x10R15 GBC Terra Masters. Night and day difference in the ride, acceleration and massively better braking performance.

Here they are fresh at the Sand Sport Super Show on some Raceline Mamba Race beadlocks. Sharp!



From the Sand Sport Super Show to the Offroad Expo to SEMA new/more lights and sponsor logos made there way onto the car. The rock lights were upgraded to red and Lazerstar made a fake patina roof while they had it between the shows.







Got oldtmr home from the shows and took the car out with all the new goodies and that is when it was obvious that I will never run truck tires again.





Then I promptly cracked a lower a-arm jumping a small kicker that made the car land driver front first. The landing combined with the leverage from the portals was too much for the arm.



The crack a-arm followed a bent tie rod adapter right before taking the car to the shows so a couple rides several months apart and both ended with broken parts.



Bent rod end allowed the CV to go over max



The moral of the story, the portals are pure beef but you better make sure everything upstream can take the same abuse. I truly believe portals are the future for SXS and serious off-roaders but bolt on portals on this car are not for me right now so I took them off and sold them to another ride in Farmington where there is way more rock crawling. Most of my local trails are fast fire roads and the portals will go fast but they obviously affect the steering/handling in a major way when all the rest of the geometry is stock. Mud, snow, rocks, they rule. Go fast with them, yes, but not light and flickable.




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