[BadBoyZR2]

Hey guys. I'm new here. I'm currently in the planning stages of swapping a solid axle into my 2000 blazer ZR2. I already got the axle, it's a Dana 44 from a '77 ford bronco. I have a couple of questions that I'm not too sure of, and I'm hoping you guys will be able to help me out with:

1) Will I lose my front antilock brakes?

2) My friend told me that I don't want the exact same gear ratios in the front and rear. Is this true? I wanted to go with a 4.11 (I'll be running 33" swampers), but if I need the exact same gear ratio, I'll have to go to 4.56 because that's the only size that the D44 and my GM rear axle share in common. If it's ok to use slightly different ratios, I can do a 4.11 for the rear axle, and 4.09 or 4.10 for the front.

3) Is it a good idea to use a detroit tru-trac locker in the front? I'm definitely putting one in the rear axle, but will putting one in front give a rough road ride?? Would I be better off going with a limited slip??

Sorry for the long post and all the question, but I want to do this right the first time and just need to figure these things out. Thanx for any help guys!!!

PS - I'll post some pics of my ride when it's done in the spring!

 

[rokcrln]

1. as far as the anti lock goes yes you will loose them. I may be wrong but the anti lock sencer is in the hub of the old suspention and will not hook up on the dana44.
2. I hope your friend was telling you that YOU DO WANT THE SAME RATIO other wise find a new friend for advise! What you will find is the front and rear will not be exactly the same but more like (4:10 & 4:11 or 3:73 & 3:72) and this is just fine and as close as you will get. If you are off 0:01 or 0:02 you are the same if that makes sence to you.
3. Lockers in front is a whole new ball game and is more on your own likeing. I love ARBs for the front but what you need to remember is your " road driving" is only affected when in 4x4. When in 2x4 you could have a spool up sront and not make a difference. But if you dont want an ARB then go with a limmeted slip of some type. But if you are doing this to a 2000 then you are not trying to fine the cheapest route to go , so I still say an ARB in front and Detroit in rear. Good luck and post pics when you get that far.
<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[BadBoyZR2]

Thanx man! My buddy didn't say to get completely different ratios, just not the same exact ratio (eg. 4.56 in both front and rear axles). He suggested it would be better to with 4.11 and 4.09 or something like that.

 

[rokcrln]

Here are how gears work. Each company has their own ratios to start with. So ford when they made their 9" had a patent on their ratios and corprate and Dana and so on each had patents on their ratios. so ford could not run Danas ratios and so on. Now they are all expired and with all the different gear companys out their you can get almost anything you want. Idealy you want the exact ratio front to back but with the different companys building axels for the same vehicals that could not happen. Like bronco come with 4:11 and 4:10 in the same vecical from the factory but that is only because they run a 9" in the rear and a Dana in front. Eather way you seem to know what is up so you should do fine. I just wnated to give a little history lesson. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

 

[bigblaze]

this is just for your info and that is the bronco axle has 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern and your zr2 has 5 on 4 3/4 so in order to have one spare you will want to change rear to 5 1/2 cause i dont think you have enough room for 4 3/4 on front cause of the hubs too large

 

[BadBoyZR2]

BigBlaze, I'm aware of that and I'm sending the axle out to change the bolt pattern and get the new gears and locker put in.

 

[CJ5-Man]

Originally posted by rokcrln:
<STRONG>I just wnated to give a little history lesson. </STRONG>

I'm going to have to call bullshit on that one. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

The only way to have the exact same gear ratio on axles w/ different R&P sizes would be to have a lot of really small teeth.

 

[Scout Dude]

My roomate did a SAS on his 89. Here is a link to some info

I'm not up on the newest Chevy stuff, but if the rear is a 10 bolt, do yourself a favor and throw it away. Like they mentioned before, run the same or near the same ratio (4.09 vs 4.10 etc)
For the front, put in a locker. Your hubs are unlocked when on the street, so you might as well make sure that when you really need both front wheels to turn, they will. JMO...

 

[Realsquash]

Originally posted by The Flem:
<STRONG>I'm going to have to call bullshit on that one. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

The only way to have the exact same gear ratio on axles w/ different R&P sizes would be to have a lot of really small teeth.</STRONG>

I agree, pure BS. The reason for the difference is the diameter of the ring gear and pinion doesn't allow the number of teeth required to get certain ratios.

Squash

 

[jeepruler]

Tru Tracs are not worth doing on any rig front or rear. Basicly an open diff when you realy need it. I know people who bought them for the front and they seem open to me. Buy an ARB!

 

[CJ-Jeeper]

Anoter vote for ARB (or some other type of selectable locker) in front if you want serious traction. A Detroit or other automatic locker is great for traction but your turning radius increases when the front is locked. I think the Ox-Trax is available now if you don't like air lines

 

[sfazr2]

Hi I'm also new here. I'm doing a solid axle swap on my ZR2 also. I'm tired of changing ball joints and worrying about how long my bearings are going to last.

I'm using the same springs front and rear. For now I'm using a D30 to get everything setup and work out the bugs, i.e. steering and such. I got this front axle for $100 so if I end up going with a better front axle later, I haven't really lost much. Also this way I can spend the $$ on other stuff to get right. I don't plan on doing any hard wheeling this winter anyhow.

I'm putting Currie's 2" Johny Joints in the eyelettes of the leaf springs. I put one in yesterday and it fits like a glove. Had to throw a couple of tack welds to make sure it stays centered, but otherwise it's a snug fit. I'll run revolver shakles all the way around when money permits. I'll be using a cherokee drop pitman arm, and I saw a steering setup last night from performance unlimited that I really like. I'm not sure how I'm going to run my front driveshaft.

Badboy ZR2- we have a funky CV shaft thing for the output of our xfer case in front. If you remove the whole assembly and put a regular setup there, it would hit the trans crossmember. A shop here could use the existing setup, but I dont trust it. It extends too far from the case to just weld a yoke on there. I think I'm going to refab a trans crossmember, or mod the existing one.

Feel free to call me at 408-685-6726. Or anyone for that matter.

P.S. Our ZR2 'case is a 233C. I don't think its much different than the 231. I want to use a regular yoke on the case, but I haven't taken all of that apart.

[ 10-24-2001: Message edited by: sfazr2 ]