Yeah you can run into front driveline clearance issues but I run the 999 tranny with my 300 I clocked mine to the second position and had to cut off one of the ears on the tranny case for D-line clearance. You have to pay more attention when filling your case also. You can easily overfill and have gear lube pouring out when you drive.
i just redrilled my th350 to d300 adapter to clock it. the shifters can be easily bent. the only issue i had was the driveshaft clearance. i clocked my d300 almost flat. its easily resolved by running a 2 inch or smaller front d shaft or by running a long splined d shaft with the splined section to the top and make it so the d shaft doesnt collapse that far like i did. onetoncv can hook you up with a nice d shaft for this.
On my CJ with tf999, I had to drill and tap the case to clock it. I got it damn near flat. If you dont have a body lift, you may have floor clearance problems with the shifter. I also had to trim the tab on the 999, but I still have enough room for a 2.5" d-shaft.
I just had a clocking ring made at a local machine shop, cost $150 CAN, vs $200 US for the GOtoGUY ring, so basically half the cost.
I had mine done in 1/2in rather than the 5/16 that he uses. Reason being the recess bolts are countersunk almost the full thickness of the 5/16 plate. In my mind this does not allow enough material to provide a solid mount. That said, I haven't heard of any problems with the GoToGuy plates, so maybe I'm just paranoid and like to overbuild.
I have a Scout Dana 300 in my YJ, and have enought spline engagement(1 1/18), and full tranny seal engagement with the 1/2 inch plate.
I clocked it a full 35 degrees making it totally flat. This required a LOT of floor cutting, but nothing hangs down below the frame. I am just finishing the x-member, and then will post some pics.
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