Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been gathering all the parts to do an onboard air installation; A buddy of mine is making the bracket for me, but I want to install everything else. I've already overhauled the heavy-duty York, got the tank and found a good location for it, got a really sweet manifold (which has two 1/8" ports for the ARB's and four 1/4" ports) and assorted fittings. I did a SEARCH of the whole POR archive, came up with a hundred threads on onboard air, and I've looked at more than 50 different write-ups and tons of pictures, but I still have some questions and I was hoping that the collective expertise of this board could help me out.

Here's what I want to do: I want to run *both* ARB's with the York, and have two separate air connections, one at each end of the truck, mounted to the bumpers. I want to run the York with an intake filter, then mount an oil filter right after the York's output. Here's where my confusion starts. I know I need to run a pressure valve for the whole system so that the York doesn't have to kick in under load when I turn it on. What I am not sure about is how to run the two ARB actuators with the York, *without* sacrificing CFMs for filling up the big tires. Does this make sense?

I understand that ARB's should be operated somewhere around 90 PSI, does that mean that the WHOLE system should be at 90 PSI, or is there a way to control the pressure going to the ARB's, while maintaining the rest of the system operating at higher PSI's? I don't own air tools but wouldn't mind being able to operate at least an impact wrench or die grinder on the trail in the future.

Also, I was looking at safety valves and they all seem to be set for 125 PSI; are there safety valves out there rated for more? Should I use the 125 PSI?

I've been staring at the two different diagrams available on Kilby's www.onboardair.com for a couple of hours and I still can't figure them out. Besides, if there's ONE thing I know about a pneumatic system, it's that the more connections you have, the more prone to leaking the system is. Therefore, I'd like to keep this as simple and foolproof as I can, while still enjoying the two benefits listed above.

Thanks in advance for your help and patience, this is all very new to me and it's surprisingly tough; I can handle electrics so I figured pneumatics would be a cinch...not so.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
You can very safely run ARB's at 90-120 PSI. I have for years. If you want top run your air tools at 150-200 PSI, which a york can do, you need to install a regulator for the ARB switches. The 125 pop off should go on the pump side. In the 150 plus range, a pop off will need to be higher. You have the plumbing correct. You may want to install a water trap before the tank or use a bleeder valve in the tank. They are availvable with a wire hooked to them for draining.

PS when you are done it will look simple;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Henry -

As has been said - you can run a regulator off of your manifold and then 'T' the ARB valves off of that.

As for the pressure switch, I recommend a seald unit like the switches you can buy from Quick Air (or the generic equivalents - I can't remember where I found one) but they are better than the industrial style you will find on a shop compressor and sold by McMaster or Grainger's - those can get buggerred up by mud or dust.

Make sure you run either a copper line or a good (like Goodyear) hose off the cYork for the first few feet. - for the connections from the tank to the F&R, you can get a 50' hose from Costco (maybe they are a twin pack now - nice for your wagon) and start cutting it up.

Have fun,

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
774 Posts
I would like to find one of the sealed type switches. Does anyoneknow of a place to get a generic one? what type of application orginally?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Jim, I thought about it, but I don't think that I will. The FJ62 dash (and under the dash) space is tight, I can't see a clean way to run four hoses into the dash...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,008 Posts
Henry,
I've heard that if you run the ARB's above 90psi you a way more prone to blowing seals. all you need is to install an adjustable regulator before the arb switches. I've got two regulators one for air tools & one for arb's. do you still have that email I sent you awhile ago w/ all the part #'s from grainger? Those are the best prices for those parts. they also carry an adjustable pressure relief valve that goes to like 200psi max.

What did you do to your York to overhaul it? Mine just siezed while I was out hunting & I would like to get a new or rebuilt unit.

pneumatics are a piece of cake once you get it all figured out. small leaks are no big deal since the commpressor will make up for them anyways
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Back to the top! Sorry, but I'm still stupid, I'm still struggling with this. Thanks everyone for all your help, I'm narrowing this down but it's been like pulling teeth.

As I understand it now, "downstream" from the York I'm going to put a check valve and maybe an oil filter (still debating this one, they're not cheap and I've been told they're only moderately effective), THEN I'll put a tee in the system, with one side going straight to the tank and the other side going to a manifold where the pressure switch for the ARBs will be. But here's a question: how can I guarantee a constant pressure to the ARB's with this setup (i.e. bypassing the tank), would I need to have the compressor running constantly?

Damn it, this has been like studying for the GMAT, just when I think I have it, I get spanked again....

Thanks for your time, dudes...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Cory, I found the email you sent me with the Grainger part#'s, I appreciate it. Do you by any chance have pics of your setup or even a schematic? I can't believe I can't @#$%^&* get this thing done, I feel like an idiot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
I am currently semi helping a buddy of mine do an onboard air system on his cj7 and he is doing it the right way with all of the correct fittings and such. My friend tim always does things the right way even if it takes forever it will look good and it will work well in the end.

enought of that he got all of his parts from Kilby Enterprises
here is the link
Kilby Enterprises

like most specialty websites it is not the cheapest but it all is right and he will tell you exactly what to do and if you are doing something wrong.

by the way he has 1.5 gallon tanks 50% off right now because of powder coating blemishes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,930 Posts
as long as there is pressure in the system, your arb's will be fine as long as the system is at adequate pressure. :)

hope that helps with some of the confusion ;)

-Max
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
As I understand it now, "downstream" from the York I'm going to put a check valve and maybe an oil filter (still debating this one, they're not cheap and I've been told they're only moderately effective), THEN I'll put a tee in the system, with one side going straight to the tank and the other side going to a manifold where the pressure switch for the ARBs will be. But here's a question: how can I guarantee a constant pressure to the ARB's with this setup (i.e. bypassing the tank), would I need to have the compressor running constantly?
yes you will have to have the compressor turned on but if you have a electonic pressure switch in the line it will see the pressure drop and cycle the compressor as needed it is like cruzilla said before once you get this figured out it will look simple and you will just laugh at the confusion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks, Scott, I already have a similar manifold setup...I think I've worked out all the kinks in my schematics, and I think it's going to turn out rather simple and effective. The next challenge will be the plumbing, and deciding what will be hard line and what will be just hose.

I'm thinking the first section of it, right at the compressor output should be hard line. Any thoughts on the material? I was thinking of going to a hose/pneumatic shop near my house and seeing what they would recommend, but I'm open for suggestions.

Thanks again to Joe Sommerville, rustycruiser, Cory Wissenback and cruzila for all the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
I'm thinking the first section of it, right at the compressor output should be hard line. Any thoughts on the material?
When I grabbed the York from the boneyard I got the stock AC hoses as well. I use one of these hoses right off the York. It handles the heat and pressure without any problems and was much easier to route in my tightly packed engine compartment.
It connects to standard air hose before running to the back of the truck to my air tank.
I f you want hard lines, Bill Jackson has a pretty good write up on how to fit standard npt pipe to the York.
You probably have this link already but here it is anyway:
http://wejacks.cruiserpages.com/onboardair.htm
-ckp
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
I went to a Hose place and had a SS braid hose made about 18" long. It goes straight into the oil separator. Then back into the tank. I put a water trap way up before the manifold but should have put it in front of the tank i think. It NEVER gets any water in it. I drain quite a bit from the tank.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,008 Posts
Henry,
Here's pics of my setup. I plan on going w/ a different regulator for the arb (one closest to firewall) b/c the one I have is too hard to setup & not very reliable. I picked up the filter from home deopot for like $15 & the new regulator was like $15 w/ a filter & gauge.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top