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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been lurking for several years not really posting much. Figured I would try to start a build thread on here because pirate seems to have really fallen off in activity lately. I am pasting this over from Binder Planet.

This is the build of my first and current project, a 1967 postal scout. My dad got the truck some 20ish years ago for free. It was missing the drivetrain, had a sketchy lift, and originally had drag slicks when we first got it. It had been in a few wrecks and the body was mostly covered in bondo, the body panels were mismatched, and the core support was from two different trucks and had been booger welded together and had promptly fallen apart. It still had a good frame, and the body was pretty much rust free so it was a good candidate for a build.

The plans are as follows:
-Linked front and rear with coilovers
-92 Ford balljoint 60 narrowed to 65 inches with 4:10 gears
-90's 14 bolt with 4:10 gears and gov-bomb (axles will get deeper gears and lockers when I get it driving)
-2003 Chevy 5.3
-NV3500 transmission
-NP241C transfer case with sye
-Hydraulic assist
-37 inch tires
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This was the truck when I went to go pick it up from storage in my buddies yard.

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The first thing I did after getting the truck home was to power wash it and rip out the old core support.
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The engine and transmission getting ready to drop in.
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First fitment of the engine and tranny. I had to move the old crossmember forward by welding a piece of C-channel to the front of the frame. It will get boxed in and reinforced and potentially turned into a bumper someday.
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Once I had the location of the engine figured out I started fabbing up these mounts.
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The mounts welded to the frame and holding the engine in place. I also managed to make the stock trans crossmember work for the new transmission, although I am going to build a new one because I hacked up the old one pretty good and it looks like shit. It also does not let me take the front driveshaft out without removing it first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Once I mounted the engine I decided to work on the front axle/suspension.
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Originally I was going to build a custom dana 60 by using hubs and spindles from a ttb f250, knuckles and c's from a dodge cad 60, and a housing from the rear end of an e250 van. I later scored a high pinion balljoint front axle from the junkyard for 280 bucks, so I used it for the front axle because it was high pinion and cheaper. I did build the housing and outers for the other axle, and all i have to do is build seals and get shafts for it. I will probably finish it and do a thread on it one day because it was pretty cool.
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I threw the entire front axle under the truck because I wanted to narrow it because I hate the look of scouts on full width axles with the tires sticking way out. I also found by removing 4 inches off the passenger side I would place the pumpkin where it would allow for the most uptravel and also gave me the width of 65 inches which is what I wanted.
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Starting to clean the old bracketry off the axle.
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In addition to narrowing the axle I also did a cut and churn to improve the caster and pinion angles.
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I also notched the housing to fit the suspension brackets. These axles are a lot of grinding to prep. Look at all the dust on the floor lol.
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Fitting the axle under the truck. You can see the panhard I bent using a cheap harbor freight pipe kinker in order to allow for maximum uptravel.
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I built a simple radius arm setup because of the ease of packaging. I also spent a lot of time when ever I would go wheeling talking to a few guys with them in their rigs and they seem to like them and from watching their rigs they seem to work good. Here it is flexing for the first time. You can also see the ghetto wood horses I built to hold up the truck because my jackstands are short.
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Links and tie rod getting painted.
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Frameside mounts welded and painted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
3118401

The axle fully welded and painted underneath the vehicle. The bushings are barnes poly bushings with the firged housings, and johnny joints at the frame side.
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I built the shock hoops out of parts and tubing from barnes.
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They mount by passing through holes drilled in the frame where they are welded and fishplated to.
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With the crossbar in place.
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The passenger side had some clearance issue when I would drop it out so I notched the frame and plated it with 1/4 inch plate. Eventually I will build some fishplates for it to.
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Suspension at ride height. I still have to build the bumpstops in and add limiting straps. Do not have many good pictures of how I did the steering. But it uses a zj steering box and a barnes tie rod flip kit to work.
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Building the little hydroassist mount using a tube clamp from ruffstuff. I modified it to be double shear.
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Axle side mount on the side of the panhard mount.
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The ram in place. It cycles with no binding. I will have to port the box and build the hydraulic lines at work. (I build custom roll off trucks so I have access to a hydraulic hose press and hose).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
3118410

Used some harbor freight vehicle dolleys in order to flip the truck around in my shop.
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Tore out the old leaf springs and dana 44 axle.
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Laid the new 14 bolt under there. I really like this picture for some reason.
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Brand new johnny joints for rear 4 link.

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Tacked on the combo brackets from barnes. They are pretty cool and made the suspension go together so easy.
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Tacked on this truss from barnes after centering it and figuring out the angle.
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Upper link mounts.
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Lower link mounts/shock mounts.
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Links cut and mocked up on the axle.
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Flexing it out. Stuffs the 35 inch mockup tire pretty well. Will fit a 37 with minimal fender modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Pulled the axle out for final welding an painting.
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I then started on the rear shock hoops. My goal was to keep the shocks outside the tub and to avoid cutting into the sides of the bed to fit them.
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The hoops are pretty simple. They have some kickers that slide into holes I drilled in the frame.
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All done and welded.
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It is very close. But I was able to make a 14 inch coilover with a 2 inch body fit between the bed and tire without limiting my uptravel.

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At this point I was able to roll it out of the shop. It is sitting a bit high in the front in this picture but with the coilovers that can all be adjusted.
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I also managed to get my stance exactly where I had wanted it. Just enough to clear the fender a bit but not so much it looks ridiculous/gets me pulled over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The rear axle is a 90's 14 bolt out of a k2500. It is the last style with drum brakes where the drum mounts on the outside of the hub. Originally I was going to use a c&c hub in order to bring the width to about 64 inches. I was also going to use a dodge 3500 rotor and parking break/caliper bracket and caliper off of the e250 Dana 60 I tried turing into a front axle. That did not end up working because the spindles where the drum mounts on the inside of the hub have a slightly longer spindle than the newer style that mounts outside the hub so the spindle nut will not go on enough to securely hold the hub in place. So I ended up ditching those hubs and rotors, and found that the original hubs off the axle with the e250 rotors on them ended up working perfectly.
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I rebuilt the parking brake with new shoes, and rebuilt the old calipers while also giving it new rotors.
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It now goes together perfect. And actually brought the width out to 65 inches to better match the front axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I rebuilt the transfer case in order to put the SYE in it. I started with this case first, but soon realized i would need a different one as it was full of mud and looked like someone had taken a shit in it. But fortunately I had another NP241C with a 32 spline input sitting on the shelf.

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I rebuilt the other one with the SYE. I am using the SYE from tom woods because it allows me to keep a vss signal for the motor to run properly.
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I also clocked up the transfer case, which meant I had to hack into the floor a fair bit.
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I also built the shifter for the transfer case by modifying the old Chevy one. I am also not the greatest at sheetmetal. So even though this cover looks like shit, it still fulfills its purpose and this is a crawler, not a show truck.
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I also got super lucky with the driveshafts. Both front and rear use a front cv driveshaft for a 3/4 or one ton dodge. They both fit perfectly and use cv joints which is great. They are also like 30 bucks from the junkyard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The fuel tank I wanted to use is a yj tank because it is easy to mount and fit right behind the rear end. LS fuel systems for this tank are also pretty expensive going for like 300 bucks, so I made my own in tank pump for 40 bucks using parts off a suburban.
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The fuel tank.
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The chevy fuel pump.
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I had to extend the sending unit to work in the tank, so I got a little Ghetto and welded on some brake line which fit perfectly in the tank.
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I cut a hole for the pump to fit, and used the original locking ring off the suburban to hold it in place.
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I then mounted the tank by using the skidplate, and bolting the skidplate to some light crossmembers going accross the back of the frame.
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I then used some old suburban fuel line parts along with some unions and stainless fuel tubing to run from the tank to the engine.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I then ran the brake lines. They go along the bottom of the body then down the links using some braided stainless brakelines.
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3118446
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The brake master is a hydro boost unit off of a mid 2000's Chevy truck. I mounted it in the stock scout location. The clutch master is out of a 90's chevy pickup and mounts next to the brake master.
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The master just barely clears the shock.
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The stock pedal assembly was made to work for the newer parts by extending the arm on the brakes and building new mounting points for both.
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The dash is an 80 dash I had laying around.
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I made the steering column shorter so I could use the zj collapsible column for packaging and safety reason.
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I built some new mounts like this one on the firewall to secure it in place.
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I managed to make everything pretty much perfect with these seats from a land rover. The only control I need to change is the tranny shifter.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I started on the harness for the engine, following the instructions at LT1swap.com. The harness is nearly down I just need a few more plugs and sensors.
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I also need to send the computer in for a flash and tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I also started building the core support.
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The radiator mounts using some brackets and bushings I got off of amazon. I am using the stock chevy clutch fan, and there will be enough room next to the radiator to fit a power steering cooler.

I also mounted the core support to the front with these polyurethane bushings.
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Soon I will mount the fenders simply by running some angle with holes drilled in it from the body to the core support.

I also tore apart the drivetrain to install the clutch and build a new crossmember. But I got the flywheel on then realized I needed some bolts to hold the clutch on so that halted that progress. The flywheel is for a 4.8/6.0 to a manual tranny, and the clutch is the older one for the external slave mounted clutch.
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That is all the updates for now. I on;y have a few hours a day right now to work on it so progress is very slow. The amount of effort and thought that goes into these is incredible lol.
 

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Technical advantages of remote control sliding gate operator
The remote control sliding gate operator is a drive composed of a motor, a transmission, and a clutch device. It is a intellectual products. The swing gate operator is an important part of the electric retractable gate , the key of the electric sliding gate, and the intelligent integration of the electric sliding gate.
Correct installation of sliding gate motor and controller:
1. Before installing the sliding gate motor, the engineer or installer must understand the site environment, and the motor should be installed on the left or right side. The position of the sliding gate can be installed according to the design of the site.
2. Choose whether to use an external sliding gate controller or a built-in sliding gate controller according to your demands. Generally, you can choose an external sliding gate controller at the entrance of factories, schools, and communities, which is more convenient for guard management.
3. Where the flow is relatively large, the sliding gate motor opens and closes frequently, so choose to use the DC sliding gate motor, because the AC sliding gate motor generates a lot of heat during the frequent opening and closing process, which will affect the performance of the motor.
4. After selecting the motor, you can also install an infrared protection device. The controller of the sliding gate motor has an infrared protection interface for users to choose
5. During the installation of the sliding gate motor, the installation worker or installation engineer should carefully read the instructions provided by the manufacturer to avoid unnecessary trouble during the installation process.
6. After installing the motor, the installer should introduce to the user in detail how to carry out the daily operation inspection and maintenance of the sliding gate motor.
Technical advantages of remote control sliding gate operator
1. The body is integrated by die-casting and has good sealing and waterproof performance
2. Heavy-duty rack and pinion, large torque
3. Professional industrial design shell, strong endurance to various climates
4. The first-run intelligent learning and adjustment mode after installation, humanized design
5. Compatible with a variety of radio control, access control systems, electromagnetic detectors and other equipment
6. LED obstacle detection display, non-contact infrared detection or contact brake mode can be selected
7. Automatic gate closing function, time can be selected
8. Protection, limit function, smooth operation of the gate motor, and optional intelligent controller with slow start and slow stop function, pedestrian
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I finished up the rest of the fender and core support mounts. The fenders mount to holes drilled into the angle with nuts welded on the backside for the bolts.
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I also got some better shots of how I mounted the zj steering box.
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I also got the clutch put in, and the transmission most of the way in.
 

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'66 Scout 800
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Good looking build, ready to see how it turns out.

I may have missed it but what diameter and length coil overs are you using?
About to link the front of my 800 and am stuck on deciding between 2.0" or 2.5" x 12" coil overs. I want the 2.5's but not sure if the larger diameter is worth it, as the 2.0's will be easier to package.

Shameless plug for my build below
Minion Scout 800
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good looking build, ready to see how it turns out.

I may have missed it but what diameter and length coil overs are you using?
About to link the front of my 800 and am stuck on deciding between 2.0" or 2.5" x 12" coil overs. I want the 2.5's but not sure if the larger diameter is worth it, as the 2.0's will be easier to package.

Shameless plug for my build below
Minion Scout 800
The fronts are 18 inch travel with a 2 inch body. (Although I am probably only using 15 inches of that. They were the same price as 14's). The rears are 14 inch travel with a 2 inch body. My dad is building an 80 right now, but he wants to keep his inner fenders, so he is using 12 inch shocks, any taller than that you have to cut into the inner fenders or delete them like I did. You might be able to run 2.5's, but you would have difficulty packaging it. You will have to cut into the frame in the front, and cut out the tub in the rear. Especially since you are using narrow scout II axles. Check out MotoDave's build ( All-Purpose Scout 80 Build ). You can really see the difficulties he had packaging his shocks with the narrower axles.
 

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'66 Scout 800
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Thanks, I want the 2.5's because bigger is better right? I know the 2.0's will be fine and I'm going to stay with 12" length in front, possibly try a 14" rear but most likely will be 12"s in the rear also. I have checked out @MotoDave build in the past, will review it again. I have no issues notching the frame, I am also running wheels with a lot of offset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I finished up the trans mount/crossmember today, it is really simple it mounts directly beneath the transmission then mounts to the frame with some poly bushings and some 1/4 tabs I welded to the frame.
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I cut out a piece and reinforced the crossmember beneath it in order to clear the driveshaft.
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Getting some paint.
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Here you can see the tabs I welded in to mount the crossmember. I also tied them into the old crossmember mounts for added strength.
 
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