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Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully you have been reading about the Whizzy one link with panhard bar setup on the toyota forum. I would like to maybe do my own version of it on the rear of my samurai. I like the simplicity of it as well as the functionality of it. Not to mention it scores a 10 on my coolness/not boring meter! The skid plate that skins the link to the frame is bitchin as well. Does anyone have any reason to not install that type of setup in my zuk situation? Should I be one of the first to go out on this limb with my zuk based buggie? Input needed!!!!
 

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Whizzy run's the link that is a V right? Two ends on the axle, one to the frame (forming a skid-plate below the drive-shaft)? Pretty sure...I remember seeing his rig on the new local "trail", but not sure if it was his.

The main issue I could forsee being a problem is angle. It would have to not interfear with the pinion or driveshaft, but be really close to inline with the driveshafts angle.

Seems possible if you crunch the numbers first...
 

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ya thats the one, its an orange toy with a tubed out rear end. Could somebody do me a favor and search for it and attach a link from this thread to it, thanks!
 

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hmm dont think ur the first one, i know there is a zuk that is in disney all the time that has rockwells, and one link rear for sure, and cant rember is front is 4 or 1 link,on 44 tsl's i got some pics somewhere ill try to find them tommarow and get them up.

kolby
 

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okay i found the pic, now who wants me to email it to them to post it up?

kolby
 

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Well now ya got me thinkin again. I am working on a sidekick yota axle conversion. was gonna use XJ springs but dont want to have to extend the frame

using this onelink setup, and XJ TJ coils I will not have to lengthen the frame but can still lengthen the wheelbase to what ever I wish...nearly that is

I like this setup best. it is adjustable for setup and can be tack welded after the fact to keep it straight. and perfect for sprung over yota axles.

 

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NothernAZxj said:
email to [email protected] I will post it for ya
You are going to need something more flexible than that bushing!!!!! it will rip the mounting point off of your frame when it binds.

You need some sort of big spherical bearing where the bushing is.
 

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Flipper said:
You are going to need something more flexible than that bushing!!!!! it will rip the mounting point off of your frame when it binds.

You need some sort of big spherical bearing where the bushing is.
ya know tht that setup has been in that guys truck for quite awhile. Here it is on the trail. and actually I think its a RE 2 1/2" superflex joint





without problems...I was not planning on a bushing though but this.






Iwas talking about the general configuration was what I was gonna do.

the over axle one link. the link will be about 45" long and will do the front also.

plan on mounting a new 1/2" bent crossmember skikdplate from outside frame to outside of frame with 1 3/4" round 250 wall tube as bracing and hang off of that.
 

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one thought - I was planning a 3 or 4 link - and thought rubber bushings would be good at one end, to keep from pounding stuff to pieces/slop. With this perhaps it would be smart to rubber mount the crossmember, take up shock loads with the bushings.
 

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deepmud said:
one thought - I was planning a 3 or 4 link - and thought rubber bushings would be good at one end, to keep from pounding stuff to pieces/slop. With this perhaps it would be smart to rubber mount the crossmember, take up shock loads with the bushings.
I think the added flex with teh xmember not being solid mounted could cause unwanted movement on the road in the front joint
 

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NothernAZxj said:
ya know tht that setup has been in that guys truck for quite awhile. Here it is on the trail. and actually I think its a RE 2 1/2" superflex joint

Oops. My bad. I thought it was just a bushing.

On one of the previous one link/trailer ball threads somebody wanted to use a leaf spring bushing.
 

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I was thinking it might be interesting to mount the end of the A or a ram that would allow wheel base adjustment on the fly. It would need a panard bar and that would cause some problems, unless it was made to line the axle up in two different positions. The panard could swing through an arc that could line the axle in two positions. This could give two different anti squat.
 

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NothernAZxj said:
I think the added flex with teh xmember not being solid mounted could cause unwanted movement on the road in the front joint
How much movement? Not side to side - taken care of by the Panhard (or Watts if you prefer) at the back - I wouldn't recommend uncaptured rubber mounts like a Suzuki tcase, but a cross member mounted on urethane or rubber would absorb some of severe, momentary "instant" loads fore and aft-wise, while not moving so much as to be measureable in terms of rear-steer or whatever. Most of the force on accell should be up and forward. I was thinking something to absorb the rattle of a dirt road might be advisable.
 

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Whizzy used a Ford radius arm end.I am fixing to build a 1 link on a buggy but we are going to use a 1 1/4" heim for the pivot point.And 3/4" heim's for the panhard.Oneof my idea's would be to use a radius arm and make the mount hinge up and down for more flex in case of binding.
 

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What I / TRDV used:

For the one link mount,
some grade8 ready rod (All thread)
Ford radius arm bushings
custom mount on the T-Case X-member

Attached to the axles.
Custom mounts made from 5/8" plate that allow it to bolt on using 4
grade8 bolts Per mount
A single mount above the axle on top of the diff

Link
Sched 80 pipe and then 1/8" plating to cover the driveshaft

Panhard
OTT tie rod material with 5/8" heims

:D
 

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Whizzy said:
What I / TRDV used:

For the one link mount,
some grade8 ready rod (All thread)
Ford radius arm bushings
custom mount on the T-Case X-member

Attached to the axles.
Custom mounts made from 5/8" plate that allow it to bolt on using 4
grade8 bolts Per mount
A single mount above the axle on top of the diff

Link
Sched 80 pipe and then 1/8" plating to cover the driveshaft

Panhard
OTT tie rod material with 5/8" heims

:D
thanks shizzy how about a few real good pics for us to go by. nice set up seams like teh way to go
 
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