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Discussion Starter #1
Regardless of the axles it's going in, assuming you could only afford one locker, say a Detroit... Would you run it front or rear?

Just for grins let's say it's an old military chevy with a 60/14 combo and 37" tires and needs to be able to drive to moderate trails, wheel, and drive home...

Lock the rear first assuming most weight will transfer to the rear?

Lock the front first assuming the front needs equal traction to effectively pull the rig over obstacles?


Obviously the other end would get upgraded with a locker as money allowed, but if you only had money to do one at a time, which end would you start with?
 

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I like the front locked if you drive it on the street a lot. (Assuming its a mechanical and not selectable) That way you don't notice it.
If it's more of a wheeler, I would weld the rear. Then buy a front locker.
 

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I put a front locker in my Jeep first. Of course it was selectable. ARB. I figured as you described. If the front can't climb, the rear might just shove the front end into the obstacle. I felt the front locker would benefit me best. It never held me back with that setup. Of course have front and rear lockers now.
 

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I wheel mostly with the front tires so that's what I locked first. Though, for the price of a tire (or two military 37's since they're so cheap) you could get a Spartan locker for the front 60 for less than $400.
 

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I like the front locked if you drive it on the street a lot. (Assuming its a mechanical and not selectable) That way you don't notice it.
If it's more of a wheeler, I would weld the rear. Then buy a front locker.
Do this, if it's a pure offroad rig. Welding the front isn't a very good option, IMO (restricts turning too much, even in dirt). Welding the back doesn't affect handling nearly as badly, and you get a great traction setup for the cost of one locker.
 

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On a side note to the OP's question...as you're climbing an obstacle and the weight of the rig is shifting to the rear axle, would it be a safe conclusion to say the rear locker/limited slip should be a full carrier upgrade instead of just a mini spool or lunch box locker? Considering it has the most weight on the rear when wheeling...

I bring this up because my full buggy wheeling friends that run full hydro steering typically use larger steering rams on the rear tires because of the increased load/weight transfer to the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just for shits and grins, vehicle has a Dana44 front and ford 8.8 rear. Chromolly axles up front with CTM joints. Leafs front and rear, 4.56 gears and weighs about 4500 trail ready
 

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I'd lock the front first seeing as you drive it home sometimes. My thinking is with a locked axle something is more apt to break as opposed to an open diff. That way if you grenade a front axle shaft or diff you can you can unlock the hubs and remove the front shaft and drive home. Does the 8.8 rely on c clips to hold the axle in?
 

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Just for shits and grins, vehicle has a Dana44 front and ford 8.8 rear. Chromolly axles up front with CTM joints. Leafs front and rear, 4.56 gears and weighs about 4500 trail ready
Is this another hypothetical scenario, of your actual axle combo?
 

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you can buy a "very tight lsd" off of ebay, I got one off of ebay for my 8.8 for $75 (5-6 years ago) that had been machined and had a shit ton of extra clutches stuffed in it. It's almost like a spool in the back but slips enough not to break axles....I have a 600hp nitrous smallblock in it with a 4,000 stall and 4.56 gears so I feel that if I didn't have the tight trac lock I probably would break the stock axles. I can burn both 33x12.50 tires on the street and lay two black marks bangin rev limiter in second gear in a c6 tranny. Never had a situation where one wheel wouldn't get power to it.
 
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