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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Front geometry is done and all tacked in proper. Working on the rear now. Lower link mounts are done. This took me about 4 hours cuz I had to redo all 4 link mounts. I flared out the frame mounts and had to redo the axle mounts cuz they needed a different angle. Something that really surprised me was that the distance between the front and rear axle lower link bolts are dam near exactly the same on both sides - 91" 5/8. If the diagonal geometry is close to that I'll be really excited because my first buggy is quite a bit out due to the slightly bent zuk frame, and that affected quite a bit of rear cage design. Doesn't seem to matter a hoot in performance, tho.
Wheelbase as it sits is about 1-2" shorter than my other buggy so this one might end up about 99". Front links are longer and the rears are shorter. Seat is also lower and more rear-ward than than the other buggy. This buggy is really maximizing the rock-bouncer balance that I was fairly succesfully achieved with the first buggy - as low COG as possible and seat low and back.
Aiming to get the upper frame mounts done then tack some pipe in for shocks to make a roller just for fun. I only get about 5-6 hours a week to work on it.





 

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For only a few hours a week looks like you are making damn good progress. If the links are nearly the same length it might make having spares much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Not exactly sure what to do now. I think the next step is to pull the engine from the Vitara and install it, then build around it. Might leave this for when the weather warms/dries up. I've got an engine to rebuild and hopefully install in the active buggy.



 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well, my other project has been put on hold so I'm gonna try to get this one done.

I started taking apart the Vitara so that I can easily transfer the engine and drivetrain, wiring, etc. Want to get as much removed but still have it drivevable.





 

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I like your style. It is simple and basic and reminds me of building stuff when I was younger and life was simpler. I mean no offense by that.

Keep at it. It should be fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Nice build so far! Are you planning to switch to disc brakes in the back or keep the drums?
Keep the drums on the Toyota IFS axle.

I like your style. It is simple and basic and reminds me of building stuff when I was younger and life was simpler. I mean no offense by that.
Keep at it. It should be fun.
Ya, most of the fab stuff is easy to figure out and really enjoyable. The engine stuff I find challenging as I was never into automotive when I was younger and difficult to troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I got the engine out and started setting up the old-new buggy chassis to continue where I left off.





 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
I'm still deciding on what direction to go for the drivetrain. What I'm considering is...

A) Stock Vitara transmission w/ married samurai tcase. I figure maybe I can make a coupler with a samurai tcase input splines on one end and track/kick splines on the other end. This would eliminate the driveshaft/ujoints between the trans/tcase, but would require alot of fabrication to make the coupler and solid mount the samurai tcase to the kick trans. Then, I'm not sure if it would work well. I.e. no vibes, strength, etc. The advantage is keeping the drivetrain as short as possible with the stock Vitara transmission.

B) Stock vitara transmission w/ divorced samurai tcase. I would certainly shorten the intermediate shaft but I'm not sure I'd bother making any support bearing/sleave for the the yoke going to the transmission like this guy has done. Seems like alot of work that may not be necessary. https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/3162852-post2.html

c) Use a Samurai transmission and tcase. Will a stock Samurai transmission and stock clutch hold up to 130hp/tq? Not interested in spending on a heavy duty clutch.







 

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RingR with w56 toy duels is about 4 inches longer then then a stock kick auto 4wd set up and will take what ever you can toss at it. Its a great set up and the fab is easy. Low range also sells the girdle for cheap for the toy tcase to make mounting easy and fast. :D
 

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On the drivetrain topic, this bushing from TT was suggested to me, probably gonna go this way for now at least. May be worth a look. The way I'm looking at mine, even if you don't put a support bearing, you still need a seal at the back of the trans.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/44882918-post11.html
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hmmm. I'm gonna have to consider that a bit more. I'm fairly certain the Vitara transmission output is sealed. Not sure if there is a bearing, though. Maybe not as the tcase input has a bearing already. I was thinking of using that part of the Vitara tcase input as a support and seal. Will investigate that soon. Thanks for the info. Keep me posted on what u do.
 

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Hmmm. I'm gonna have to consider that a bit more. I'm fairly certain the Vitara transmission output is sealed. Not sure if there is a bearing, though. Maybe not as the tcase input has a bearing already. I was thinking of using that part of the Vitara tcase input as a support and seal. Will investigate that soon. Thanks for the info. Keep me posted on what u do.
Mine is out of an 02 tracker, the trans seals to the input on the Tcase, the OD of the intermediate driveshaft isn't big enough to make it seal.

Probably gonna go with the bushing for now, thinking about doing some chain drive shenanigans in the future with the Tracker Tcase to drop the output and maybe lower the gearing a shade to try and get closer to a flat bottom, but we'll see if its needed. Sticking with the K.I.S.S. principal for now.
 
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