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Discussion starter · #41 · (Edited)
I guess that tail shaft adapter from Trail Tough is to replace the tcase input that slips onto the trans output? I'm unclear as to why Trail Tough only specifies the part being intended for the automatic transmission.... I'll take some photos.
 
Discussion starter · #42 · (Edited)
Looking at it some more, I can't help but think that this whole section of the tcase is uncessary. If I were to use it, the options are:

A) Make a bushing or buy the TT adapter (assuming that is what it's for) and have the tcase housing accommodate the smaller diameter intermediate shaft yoke.
B) Leave the housing as is, stuff the bearing with grease and seal it with a washer or something somewhat effective, and make a sleeve to go over the Samurai yoke to make it slightly larger.





 
I'm not quite sure how the bushing works either, I'll try and find some pictures of it installed.

I emailed to ask how it worked and if it was oiled or greased, Dylan from TT told me this:
"It is oiled. It is a brass bushing from a suzuki samurai 5 speed. It presses in the back of the transmission so it will accept a samurai intermediate driveshaft yoke."
 
Discussion starter · #44 · (Edited)
I'm still unclear of where either of these items is meant to go. Do they mean the tcase housing or the actual transmission? That aluminum housing part that has the bearing/seal/input yoke is part of the tcase, not the transmission.

If they mean something to go into the actual transmission where you see the output shaft protruding there is clearly already a seal there. No oil or fluid comes thru that else that whole empty space between the tcase and the transmission would get filled with oil.

Clearly I'm missing something...

*Edit* I found some photos of an automatic transmission. Looks like it's got less empty space between the trans and tcase housings. I guess the auto was longer and Suzuki had to artificially extend the manual trans? Still don't see why a bushing or adaper is needed...
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/1824017-grand-vitara-samurai-tc.html
 
I feel blonde, I didn't realize that was a 5 speed you had. I was wondering why you left that much of the Tcase and the Tcase shifter there:rolleyes:.

I'm even more curious now though...
 
Oh, good. That makes me feel better because maybe it's not so important to have any extra parts in my config. If you look at Frank Cook's video of his auto trans overhaul, you can see some fairly detailed views of the auto trans inside and out.

https://youtu.be/RaRAPOlLJVI?t=105
Thanks, I'll need to stash that away.
 
Back when i was running a sami case behind the 5spd in my 2.0l buggy, i just splined the intermediate shaft onto the back of the trans w/o the tcase plate you're trying to make work. I ran it that way for years with no issues until the sami case busted. When i went to dual yota cases behind the 5spd, i made an adapter that utilized the front part of the track/kick case so that i could seal the yota cases.
 
Discussion starter · #51 · (Edited)
Had to redo the panhard mount in the front due to the engine needing to be so far forward and having room for the radiator.

Before:


After - old mount and crossmember with new mount plate. Will not be using a crossmember for the panhard.




And started working on the body. Got the sliders on so I can make the seat mounts. I have in mind to make the whole cab section as one unit so I can position it where I need to. I'm not sure at this point exactly where it will be. This is a different strategy than when I made the first buggy.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Made a new panhard mount so I could remove the crossmember and make room for the radiator. I've had to redo a fair amount of things already, somewhat unfortunate but also expected. I'm not even 100% happy with this panhdard. I realize now I could have made it even longer. But, the one on my first buggy is shorter than this and works fine, so I'm gonna keep this one.

I've also removed the rock slider bars for the 3rd time. I want more bend angle at the front and recently got a loan on real tube bender so no risk of kinking the pipe.





 
Discussion starter · #53 · (Edited)
Made some seat adjustment rails and some mounts on the chassis using some old furniture legs. :)





Started to frame the cab. This one is 1 inch taller and wider than my other buggy - just for a little more breathing room and to more easily accommodate changes down the road. This buggy should have alot more engine room than the other buggy, even though the chassis is about the same. Probably more front-heavy, too. I made some wooden brackets to line up the tubes.





 
Discussion starter · #54 · (Edited)
Making some new motor mounts. The stock mounts are nice aluminum and would have worked fine if I wasn't so picky about where the engine goes.



When I couldn't find a piece of 1/4 flat stock big enough, there she was, my old friend who's never let me down: angle iron. Turns out this will work alot better. Made a mounting plate with a temp spacer that I'll be replacing for the arm.




Now just deciding whether to use these off-the-shelf motor mounts or some poly bushings...


 
Discussion starter · #57 · (Edited)
Made another stubby. this one is slightly shorter than the one I made for my first buggy. Wasn't brave enough to make it any shorter. I wouldn't have been able to make a perfectish cut line with my fancy tube cutter (sure beats a jiffy marker).

Still, I find the distance between the tranny and tcase far too long. I'm really tempted to try to make some adapter to bolt the sammy tcase to the Vitara transmission or just run a Samurai transmission. :/

As it sits, I'm at most 2 inches difference in the driveshafts from my other buggy. Would sure be nice if I could make them the same or close enough that I can use the shafts from the other buggy.

Cut.


Squish.


weld.


Install.


...
 
Made another stubby. this one is slightly shorter than the one I made for my first buggy. Wasn't brave enough to make it any shorter. I wouldn't have been able to make a perfectish cut line with my fancy tube cutter (sure beats a jiffy marker).

Still, I find the distance between the tranny and tcase far too long. I'm really tempted to try to make some adapter to bolt the sammy tcase to the Vitara transmission or just run a Samurai transmission. :/

As it sits, I'm at most 2 inches difference in the driveshafts from my other buggy. Would sure be nice if I could make them the same or close enough that I can use the shafts from the other buggy.]

what is the measurement from the vitara tranny to the samurai t-case? It looks like a sidekick to samurai doubler might be an inch or 2 shorter.
 
Discussion starter · #59 · (Edited)
I found a Tcase flange that fits on the zuk tcase that makes the flange stick out more which is useful for when using a Toyota driveshaft flange (the toyota ds flanges are not fully bored out so zuk output spline end interferes). I don't know what it's from. I cleaned it up and managed to swap the dust cover, also. Will probably use it on my other buggy since this buggy's rear driveshaft is already shorter than I'd like.





 
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