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It looks like I am on track to make some real progress on my junk. Before I get to the present, here is a look at its past. This is my 2nd. I bought my first in Jan of 85, and it was just a battle with rust until I junked it in about 94. This one was converted to a fiberglass tub in 88. I bought it in 96 and converted it to SSII in 97 orf 98. I had been planning on converting to A Caddy 500, 4L80E and 203/241. The project was set off course when the 345 died on the highway before everything else was ready. I gave myself 2 weeks to drop in the Caddy, it was to be just a simple drivetrain swap. When I pulled the old IH stuff out I couldn't bear to put the shinny new drivetrain in the filthy old underpinnings. That lead to pressure washing the underside of the body, scrubbing it with a toothbrush and brushing on a undercoating called Cool Car Ceramic, which was supposed to be a sound deadener and insulation. Then I couldn't bear to use the old wiring and in came a Centac harness. By then my 2 weeks was past, I had to get back to work, and taking care of aging relatives always kept working it out of reach. The bottom 2 pics are what it looked way back when, thats one of many front 60's that it hauled back from the boneyard on my homemade and unbent hitch carrier. The chickadee is thankfully long gone.

10 years later I now have a small shop to work in, a new powertrain and axles, and I hope some steady progress.
 

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Progress pics to follow, I left the camera in the shop today. In a nutshell the new powertrain is a L92, 6L80, and 4 speed 5.4 Atlas. Axles are a 79 Ford 60, and either a 14bolt, or a 32 spline Ford van 60 with disc brakes. All axles have 4.10 I have a bunch of leaf springs, for the rear either 63 Chevys, or 56 Fords. In the front I hope to use the RE 1445 YJ SOA springs. I have 2 stock YJ packs I can pull leafs from if I need more spring up front. One of the first orders of business is to open up the wheelwells to squeeze in 37's. I want this to ride as low as possible.
 

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With an OD tranny and 37" tires, have you thought about lower gears?

What was the tires size and gear ratio of the doner rig? How does that correspond with 37's and 4.10's?



Backside of the chickadee looks good. Didn't know you could snare anything like that :flipoff2:
 

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With an OD tranny and 37" tires, have you thought about lower gears?

What was the tires size and gear ratio of the doner rig? How does that correspond with 37's and 4.10's?



Backside of the chickadee looks good. Didn't know you could snare anything like that :flipoff2:
The Denali that the powertrain is from ran 3.42's with 32 inch tires. http://www.vehix.com/car-reviews/2007/gmc/yukon-denali/vehicle-specifications The 4.10's come out almost the same with 37's. I also ran 4.10's in the 6L80 against 4.56 in a 4L60 and the gearing came out close until I hit the overdrive gears in the 6l80. This is a great gear ratio calculator for side by side comparisons http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

I have no intention of any lockers in the axles until I get it on the road. After a few miles Ill see how the gears are working when I add ARB's to them. For now its run what u brung.
 

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Chi with the Atlas I am thinking about 3:73s in mine there is no reason to have the low axles gears when you have the gears in the case. You then have a great highway cruiser and crawler also. To me thats the advantage of the Atlas four speed. I look forward to wheelin with you, just wondering if you should link the damn thing while your at it, just a couple extra days :flipoff2:
 

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Even for 4.10's will be low for a 6l80 the first gear is 4:1. It will be fine. That's one reason I am not switching to the 6l80 in my Scout II due to the fact I have 4.56's in it now with 35's. Plus the fucker is huge above the center line vs a 4l60e. I would have to cut the tunnel.



Chi are you going to hook up the TUTD manual shifter?
 

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just wondering if you should link the damn thing while your at it, just a couple extra days :flipoff2:
A lot of the order I am doing things may seem backwards ass. The frame under it now is shot and I have a nice frame to go under it. The plan is to do the wheelwells, rockers, cage and a few misc things as is. Then drop the body onto the new frame. and throw in the drivetrain and axles. The new frame has all the body mounts cut off of it, I plan on making the cage tie ins the body mounts. I want to get it on the road like this.

Down the line I want to make a custom frame. I want to do links with cantilever bellcrank shocks to keep the shocks from coming inside the body. The frame would be very narrow in the front, approx CJ width of 27" so I can run narrower axles with full turning radius without hitting the frame. Id go very wide in the back to accomidate a big shallow tank, and with the coilovers inside of the frame rails. Thats a pipe dream now though, but thats the reason I am not going links right away.



Even for 4.10's will be low for a 6l80 the first gear is 4:1. It will be fine. That's one reason I am not switching to the 6l80 in my Scout II due to the fact I have 4.56's in it now with 35's. Plus the fucker is huge above the center line vs a 4l60e. I would have to cut the tunnel.



Chi are you going to hook up the TUTD manual shifter?
The engine harness will probably be the last thing I do to get it running. Things are evolving and I don't want to buy stuff today that might be obselete when I get it running. As of today I plan on writing a big check to John at Speartech and having paddle shifters on the steering wheel


I have a early Kentrol tub, and they had lots of issues back then. The guy I purchased it from spent almost 9K to have it built with the fiberglass tub to a IH family in Rantoul Illinois. From the day he got it the doors never closed correctly. When I took off the steel top the windshield dam near fell off. The bracing for the windshield was for shit. When I went SSII I pop rivited these 1/4" aluminum strips on which held it well, but you can see they were starting to separate from the door frame. I will need to do something similar but better this time, perhaps through bolts.

Its been forever since I looked under a Steel Scout and don't remember how the whole rocker thing is attached. From what I can tell I am going to cut off about 2 to 2 1/4" inches of the rockers. That aluminum angle is 3x3x3/8 and I am going to glass that in to preserve the body integrity before I slice the rockers off. I plan on additional bracing but that won't be installed until I put the inner SSII insert back in place. I will cut 3" off the bottom of the SSII insert so it will sit on top of the aluminum angle

Ive been doing fiberglass work on boats since I was a kid. I always used the standard fiberglass stuff sold at the hardware store. I have stepped it up this time and am getting my stuff from West Systems. I ordered it yesterday and it showed up today. Its about 4x what the hardware stuff goes for, im anxious to see how different it is to work with.
 

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I'm so done with YJ leafs... YJs weight 1/2 as much as a Scout.

I'm pretty sure 56" Fords will fit up front... Pin is offset too.
 

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I'm so done with YJ leafs... YJs weight 1/2 as much as a Scout.

I'm pretty sure 56" Fords will fit up front... Pin is offset too.

They are buried under a tarp for the winter, but the 1445's are a lot beefier than the stock YJ packs. Im trying to stay with shorter springs to keep the rig lower as longer springs will raise the rig due to the frame angle.

What YJ springs did you use? Were you flexing them past flat? If so how inverted?
 

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Ive been doing fiberglass work on boats since I was a kid. I always used the standard fiberglass stuff sold at the hardware store. I have stepped it up this time and am getting my stuff from West Systems. I ordered it yesterday and it showed up today. Its about 4x what the hardware stuff goes for, im anxious to see how different it is to work with.
You will like it sooooo much better Helmer. I used to buy their stuff and some other locally manufactured stuff when I was making snowboards in my garage. Depending on the catalyst that you bought you will see a much more consistent kick time and finish.

Are you using epoxy or polyester resin?
 

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What YJ springs did you use? Were you flexing them past flat? If so how inverted?
2.5" BDS Springs.
They have a lifetime warranty for free replacement. I've replaced front & rear 2x each.
Bump stops keep them from inverting.
I run an extra inside leaf in the front for wrap, an extra shorty in the rear, & anti-wrap bar.
 
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