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Searched, and couldn't really find a ton of pics or info on this. I believe, for my situation, this would be the best setup for being able to camp and tow my rig. I have an 85 4Runner, bobbed, and will be soon be getting a 2000 F-250 Powerstroke. I'm just curious as to how you all, who do this, like this setup? Seems like the way to go. If you can, I'd like to see pics. Also, how are you all attaching them to the trailer? Are you making them fairly easy to remove, or pretty permanent? I just really like this idea. I'd be looking at probably a 28ft or so flatbed. Put overhead part of camper over gooseneck and rig behind that. Any pros or cons to this setup? Thanks for the comments!!! :)
 

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search tow setups or something, ive seen at least a dozen pics on this before, lots of the back east folk do this.

jiMMy
 

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I'd love to do this, but on my Lance 9.5' the holding tanks dump straight down which is a real issue with a deck over trailer that I would need if I got a gooseneck trailer (I doubt mine would be a permantly mounted setup).

Some camper's holding tank drains come out the rear or side so they aren't a issue.

How have you guys that have mounted campers on goosenecks dealt with the draing of your tanks?
 

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why couldn't you just cut a hole in the deck for the drain to pass through?
 

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Mechanos said:
why couldn't you just cut a hole in the deck for the drain
to pass through?
I would be ok with that if the camper was going to be permantly mounted, but I would want the trailer for hauling other things too.
 

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I've been looking into this for a few months now. I have a trailer builder that I'm currently working with. I want to be able to easily remove and install the camper. At this point we haven't come up with a solid mounting and removal method. backing a 28' gooseneck under a truck camper would pretty much be a no go for me. We are trying to work out some sort of side loading method. As far as the dumping is concerned, cut a hole. Make a plate to cover the hole when not in use.

BTW, I pull with a 2000 4x4 crewcab PST SRW. I tried pulling my jeep on the trailer with my Lance 1010 (10' 1") in the bed. It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I pulled highway 80 from sac to reno and back with no breaking issues at all. I do have air bags to help with the load. The truck felt very stable and handled pretty well. I would be worried about a panic stop or swerv, but then again I feal the same way with just the camper on the truck.

I still think the gooseneck setup would pull better as there would be much less weight over the rear axle of the truck.
 

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Getting the camper on and off the trailer is the biggest problem with this plan. It's not insurmountable, but it's a PIA. I've helped load an 8' camper on a friends trailer, we first loaded the camper onto the pickup conventionally, then backed the truck up flush against the trailer at a right angle (you may need to put the truck or the trailer on ramps to get the beds level, or the trailer bed slightly lower thant the truck) Then we winched the camper out of the truck onto the trailer, turned it square to the trailer and winched it forward (you do own a winch, right?). Strapped it down with 4" straps just like any other load. Unloading is an even bigger pain because when you're loading you can fix a pulley to the neck of the trailer, but there's nothing forward of the front of your pickup bed to pull against to slide the camper off the trailer and onto the truck. . .4 big friends and lotsa beer works OK.

2 or 3 4" holes in your deck, for drains, is not going to change the usefulness of your trailer much, just be careful not to break your ankle putting your heal in one of the holes.
 

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Colorado Kid said:
Getting the camper on and off the trailer is the biggest problem with this plan. It's not insurmountable, but it's a PIA. I've helped load an 8' camper on a friends trailer, we first loaded the camper onto the pickup conventionally, then backed the truck up flush against the trailer at a right angle (you may need to put the truck or the trailer on ramps to get the beds level, or the trailer bed slightly lower thant the truck) Then we winched the camper out of the truck onto the trailer, turned it square to the trailer and winched it forward (you do own a winch, right?). Strapped it down with 4" straps just like any other load. Unloading is an even bigger pain because when you're loading you can fix a pulley to the neck of the trailer, but there's nothing forward of the front of your pickup bed to pull against to slide the camper off the trailer and onto the truck. . .4 big friends and lotsa beer works OK.

2 or 3 4" holes in your deck, for drains, is not going to change the usefulness of your trailer much, just be careful not to break your ankle putting your heal in one of the holes.
It would be one, but it would be at least six inches. I want to be able to put a stock rack on the trailer and a hole even 4" would be a bad deal. I guess I'll have to figure out a cap / plate for it when I do it.

As far as loading and unloading my camper jacks are at about 97.5" wide so on a deck over they would be able to raise the camper off the deck and some steel saw horses could be place on both sides and a steel tube placed on top of them and then raise the jacks and pull out. This would not work in most back yards,but if you have the room.

If it's a low-boy type (with fenders) I would think the swing out jacks for a dually would work.

I doubt any trailer setup will be as easy as loading a camper in a pickup bed.
 
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