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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
you think the weight of water is going to force out the grease? :lmao:

i guess someone trying to put bearings and seals on something so simple and that barely spins a few degrees a month would think that :flipoff2:
The water won't displace the grease, duh. The water will still contaminate it and if you let it sit for a winter it will rust solid just like every hitch receiver. If you had half a brain you'd know that. Maybe it's not that bad where you live but that's how it is in the Northeast and anywhere else where they have a real winter and salt the roads. If you're not moving it constantly you need either huge tolerances or some way to help keep crap out. I had an 8.8 housing I wasn't using. I have some access to a machine shop. I'm not going to go through the trouble of buying materials and building something from scratch when I can cobble it together from stuff that's free.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I cut down the axle shaft to be the right length. Just inboard of the bearing surface the shaft necks down to 39.15mm according to my HF calipers (I don't have a 1-2 mic and forgot to measure it last time I had it in the shop).

I was about to turn it to 1.25 (one of my coworkers owes me some machining) so that I could use a pair of 1.25ID trailer spindle bearings for the bottom part but then I decided to double check wheel bearing applications and found the rear wheel bearing for a bunch of late 90s Saabs and an early 2000s Saturn L300 (Timken part 510052). It's 39mm ID and 74mm OD. The ID of the wider part of the 8.8 tube I'm using happens to be a hair shy of 74mm...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Low and behold the rear wheel bearing for a bunch of Saturns and Saabs has a 19mm ID which is only a hair smaller than the shaft od after it necks down after the bearing. It's a typical AWD rear wheel bearing, double tapered roller bearings, single cup for both cones and seals on both sides, The OD is also less than 1/8" larger than the ID of the 8.8 tube so that's what I'm using.

I'll probably get one of my friends/coworkers to bore out the tube sometime in the next few months. I was able to semi-accurately flap wheel the 8.8 shaft down to a tight slip fit with the Saturn bearing but I'll probably knurl that for more grip (tight slip fit = lightly tap it with a hammer to get it off if it's been sitting in the sun).

The 6" or so of shaft that's sticking out below the Saturn bearing will be turned down and keyed so it can be turned by a $30-$50 eBay 50:1-100:1 worm gear box.

I'll take pics eventually, I promise.
 

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so i was at the lumber yard a few weeks ago and one of the yard guys tells me he used to work on a fishing boat and they had the same exact crane as i do on the boat, i told him thats impossible it would just rust and seize together :laughing: :flipoff2: he said nope it worked great and was 15+ yrs old
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Take your well lubed crane and shove it up your ass.

I'm not copying your design because it doesn't make use of shit I have lying around, power rotation can't easily be added and doing a not crap job welding appropriately thick material with a 120v welder is a huge PITA (I'm trying to design this to avoid as much of that as possible).
 

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Take your well lubed crane and shove it up your ass.

I'm not copying your design because it doesn't make use of shit I have lying around, power rotation can't easily be added and doing a not crap job welding appropriately thick material with a 120v welder is a huge PITA (I'm trying to design this to avoid as much of that as possible).
Sprocket and chain come to mind for power rotation. Sprocket can be welded to the pipe design that Rockyota pictured. If you had just bought some junk pipe in the past 10 or 11 months, you could have sold/scrapped the junk you have laying around and built a proven design that many people use. I do like people thinking outside the box but in this case I honestly think if you weren't so stubborn you would have already had a working pivoting crane using sleeved pipe.

What happens when the unit bearing goes bad? Do you have another one to replace it easily and cheaply without having to rebuild the whole thing? K.I.S.S.
 

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Take your well lubed crane and shove it up your ass.

I'm not copying your design because it doesn't make use of shit I have lying around, power rotation can't easily be added and doing a not crap job welding appropriately thick material with a 120v welder is a huge PITA (I'm trying to design this to avoid as much of that as possible).
:laughing: you really think im trying to convince you to copy my design? :homer: i think its obvious after my first post in this thread ive just been giving you a hard time, no one else gives a shit about this thread so i figured you needed some love :laughing: but keep getting butt hurt its kind of entertaining :flipoff2:
 

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Sprocket and chain come to mind for power rotation. Sprocket can be welded to the pipe design that Rockyota pictured. If you had just bought some junk pipe in the past 10 or 11 months, you could have sold/scrapped the junk you have laying around and built a proven design that many people use. I do like people thinking outside the box but in this case I honestly think if you weren't so stubborn you would have already had a working pivoting crane using sleeved pipe.

What happens when the unit bearing goes bad? Do you have another one to replace it easily and cheaply without having to rebuild the whole thing? K.I.S.S.
ive spun my crane by hand with a 12v cummins and tranny/transfercase hanging from it :laughing:

pretty much everything ive lifted has been spun by hand, then again im not a girl or disabled :flipoff2:
 
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