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Ok, I may be getting a set of steering mog axles. I need some sources for having a pinion conversion done, and disc brake conversion, and possibly narrowing the axles.

Also, how are the stock drums? Is it mandatory to convert to discs? What kind of overall widths do you get with drums and discs?

Thanks, guys!
 

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Brake power

My 5400lbs mog can sit on a near vertical wall with the parking brake on (only locks rear wheels) and it wont move an inch. the Mog drums are pretty well suited to large vehicles, so if you build a buggy around 3-5000lbs, you will be just fine.

404axzl
404axzl Spch
 

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Lance said:
Ok, I may be getting a set of steering mog axles. I need some sources for having a pinion conversion done, and disc brake conversion, and possibly narrowing the axles.

Also, how are the stock drums? Is it mandatory to convert to discs? What kind of overall widths do you get with drums and discs?
I'll try to give as much info as I know, which may not be much. The stock width from WMS to WMS is 69" with the stock drums. If you leave the housing the stock width, most 8 lug conversions will add 2.5-2.75" to the width. Here is a good link with axle measurements: http://killeraxles.com/html/axle_measurments.html

One key thing about the MOG axles are that the diff is only 3.5" off the centerline of the axle (to the drivers for the front, to the pass side for the rear). This can give ya fits with engine to axle interference on low slung rigs. To get around this most have the housing narrowed and take the length out of one side to move the diff further over and center the rear.

I had mine narrowed 7", had it taken off the short side front, and long side rear. I got them from Taradon here on Pirate. Pics of my narrowed housings can be found here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98042

Now since I am 7" narrower, I plan on getting 8 lug disc brake conversions to bring the axle back to about 69". This will allow me to run Hummer rims stock to keep the width down.

The stock drums are good for stopping, but they are massive and therefore heavy. Discs are lighter, dissipate heat better, but the conversions are expensive.

As far as pinion conversions, I am getting mine from Taradon also. They are 1410 yolks that have been machined to fit the 8 spline pinion and have a seal surface. I should be getting them today. They are his shortest conversion, which I need because the Stock MOG pinion is very long.

Sources for MOG parts:
Taradon on this board
Wolfgang on this board: http://killeraxles.com/index.html
Ryeguy on this board: http://www.exaxt.ca/

Lastly, you can find pics of my chassis build up on several threads on here, or look at the project directory linked in my sig, the link folder in that directory has many recent shots of my suspension buildup.

Oh, and if you need any measurements or anything let me know.

404axzlSpch
404axzl
 

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One question tho... I remember you saying a year or 2 ago that MOG portals were not up to the task of competition..

What changed your mind, and the reason your going to MOG axles?
 

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It´s not mandatory to change to disc. But here are a few advantages:
Better stopping power.
Better cooling for the geared hubs and longer live for the seals.
8-lug conversion with a big variety of wheels and tires.
Lot easier to get brake parts.
Cheaper brake parts.
Easy to clean and inspect.

In Germany the Unimog brakes are well known as a piece of sh...

On used Unimog axles you always have to rebuild the brakes if you do your job right. These Unimog brake parts are not really cheap. If you add all toghether and see the difference to the disc brakes, it makes sence to convert, because the future investment in the disc brakes are less than on the drum brakes.

Sure you can make your own cheap pinion conversion.
If you have your torque tube it´s easy to machine this part to accept a seal.
If you also have the Unimog driveshaft you can cut the splined end and weld a flange on to accept a driveshaft.
This conversion will held for a while and it is easy to do. It is not a conversion i would sell to my customers but it is ok.
The problem begins if you do not have the torque tube and the driveshaft. I do not think that you local machine shop will make the splines.


for more information send me a mail with your phone #. I will call you.

Wolfgang
www.killeraxles.com

404axzlSpch
 

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How do the stock drum brakes do when they get wet? I know most drums do poorly, but are the mogs sealed any better ? Does the shear size of them help? It seems that being military equipment, they should have a handle on this. Just wondering. I am looking at runnning the drums until I can get the disk$ done.
 

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I guess the better way to ask the question is how well will they stop when wet/muddy? as poor, or better than average drum brakes.

I would say better in my Mog. Now...... what conditions are "you" speaking of.... A Mog... or a Mog axled little beasty. If your talking something smaller and lighter than a regular Mog I cant imagine that you cant be just fine running drums till your ready for the Disk brake conversion.

buttt...... do make sure you do the conversion if your going to run lot of wheel turning (wheel spin in mud, highway driving etc) cause the drums hold in the heat which is not good for the axle. The Mog axle was never meant to be spinning fast so MB did not have an issue with the heat.

I'm going to try to increase air flowing across mine during highway driving just to help keep things cool.
 

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drum brake improvements for mud

I got tired of the mudded up brake drums and gridded the brake pads where mud and water can escape to the sides, I also open up the top brake pin pivot some as well as the brake shoe pin holes and used a little never seize. If you got muddy water or a lot of mud the backing place plug will not let everythin out, I drilled some extra holes where i could stick a 3/8 dia 3 foot pipe connected to a garden hose to wash out the junk that was always making the brakes stickey or hang up, I drive a lot of ranch roads where traffic has the water stirred up to half mud. When I would go back to drive the mog the next time the brakes would be slow, after I did the extra and washed out the brakes every time I came back i never had any problems, they work but are not disks, i always thought a bigger pistoned brake master cylinder from a 1 ton dodge or something similar would help, even when new they require massive efort to lock up in panic, a new style brake booster would help as well. I think every 404 i have driven had soso brakes, if you have the money get the disc, easy to clean, parts at napa, I spent almost $800 redoing marginal drum system because i did not know of the site or all the conversions out here now. I still think you would be better off buy the 406 axles with disc already, they are for sale cheap but u have to order from germany, $400 fronts plus shipping until they figure out there is a growing market for the with 4x4er's. I also had some trobule with the vent on the hub letting water in the gearbox,I I just smashed the ends some and no more mustard colored oil!I am on the coastal plains of south texas where it has been flooding every year, lots of suspended dirt in the water to plug up everything!good luck on your project!
 

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i would talk to taradon on this board.. i dont remember his email but im sure if u look at his profile he will have one.. his pricing are good and is nice guy.. and knows lots about those axles.. he does narrow them and do the pinion conversion 2 way (one is using old torque tube and other one is short shaft conversion )

he also do disc brakes conversion too..

talk to him for prices

good luck and looking forward to see new pictures of your rig with portal :D
 
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